DIY high-end 80/20 equipment rack

Thanks to the OP for posting detailed parts list. I am finally in the mode to build a similar rack, and I'm using his parts list. I ordered everything today from 80/20. Paid more than splitting the order, but laziness overruled cheapness today. I added six adjustable leveling feet, which totaled around $70. For those who want to know what all of the metal parts cost from the one vendor, it was a tad under $350 including shipping and the added feet. I plan to make both sides mirror images with a top, bottom and middle shelves. I'm going to use pre-veneered plywood with Red Oak veneer for the top surfaces. I will glue and screw a 3/4" veneered piece of plywood to a non-veneered piece, for a total thickness of 1.5". To finish the edges, I will use solid 1 X 2" Red Oak glued and screwed to the main board with Kreg Jig screws so they are invisible. I may use a double thickness of the 1 X 2 Red Oak trim to get the 1.5" I need to match the thickness of the legs. This eliminates the need for precision cutouts, and should make an interesting looking top surface when sanded, stained and varnished. The six adjustable feet should give plenty of support for heavy amps and receivers and be easy on the floor, I think there is enough height that I could reposition the shelves and add another shelf to each side later on. That's a nice benefit of the 80/20 system. I really like the OP's plan and look forward to getting this built.
Steve
 
Thanks to the OP for posting detailed parts list. I am finally in the mode to build a similar rack, and I'm using his parts list. I ordered everything today from 80/20. Paid more than splitting the order, but laziness overruled cheapness today. I added six adjustable leveling feet, which totaled around $70. For those who want to know what all of the metal parts cost from the one vendor, it was a tad under $350 including shipping and the added feet. I plan to make both sides mirror images with a top, bottom and middle shelves. I'm going to use pre-veneered plywood with Red Oak veneer for the top surfaces. I will glue and screw a 3/4" veneered piece of plywood to a non-veneered piece, for a total thickness of 1.5". To finish the edges, I will use solid 1 X 2" Red Oak glued and screwed to the main board with Kreg Jig screws so they are invisible. I may use a double thickness of the 1 X 2 Red Oak trim to get the 1.5" I need to match the thickness of the legs. This eliminates the need for precision cutouts, and should make an interesting looking top surface when sanded, stained and varnished. The six adjustable feet should give plenty of support for heavy amps and receivers and be easy on the floor, I think there is enough height that I could reposition the shelves and add another shelf to each side later on. That's a nice benefit of the 80/20 system. I really like the OP's plan and look forward to getting this built.
Steve
I like your approach when it comes to the shelves. In fact, when I started reading this thread, the one thing that I didn't like was the veneering. Using pre-finished plywood and cover the edges with solid wood is the way to go, in my view at least. I have been woodworking for a few years now and that is one very typical approach to make solid and strong shelves.

There are many ways to add the edging to the boards though, no need to buy the Kreg jig if you haven't already. Often glue with proper clamping is just enough. You could also use dowels, cut tong-and-grooves etc. Further, you could have the edges overhang, so that the shelves appear thicker than they actually are. This image gives you some visual idea of what I am talking about: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/7e/55/d4/7e55d47b87441c35e046513554c8f8e5.jpg

You can of course also use solid wood altogether. That will be a bit more pricey, and more work, but ultimately the most beautiful. You could choose an extra dense wood to get more weight per shelf. Finishing would be easy, and, what I like most about it, the finish can always be redone without having to worry to cut through a veneer...

Anyway, just wanted to say "sounds good!" Show us some pictures when you're done.
 
I do already have a Kreg Jig, but now that I think about it, with double thickness plywood, this would put most of the pulling strength of the screws at the bottom and might not pull the top tight. Clamping might be a better way to go. I have used this pre-fab veneers/solid edges a few times and the Kreg works well when it is a single thickness of plywood and the 1 X 2 is laying flat with the 2” edge as part of the top. Looking forward to the project. I haven’t received my 80/20 parts yet, but at any rate, it will probably be after Christmas before I have time to tackle it. Thanks for the input!
Steve
 
Wow, didn't see this.

For my design specifications, I wanted the plies to show, and I wanted the uprights to be eased into the shelves for a more refined look. I dig the look of baltic birch - those thin plies and lack of voids (mostly) make it a great material to use for cabinets, speakers, and shelves.I like your idea using solid wood of the correct thickness to apply to the edges negating the routing - should work just fine. But for my aesthetic - I want to see those gorgeous plies!

Please post up some images of how your projects came out though!
 
Wow, didn't see this.

For my design specifications, I wanted the plies to show, and I wanted the uprights to be eased into the shelves for a more refined look. I dig the look of baltic birch - those thin plies and lack of voids (mostly) make it a great material to use for cabinets, speakers, and shelves.I like your idea using solid wood of the correct thickness to apply to the edges negating the routing - should work just fine. But for my aesthetic - I want to see those gorgeous plies!

Please post up some images of how your projects came out though!
Actually, because I have been working on remodeling projects in both of my adult kids' houses, I have only begun this project in the last week. I got the Oak Veneer plywood glued and screwed to another 3/4" plywood and cut into 2' X 4' strips. I then cut those into 18-1/2" X 22-1/2" sections. I have eight of them. When I add solid 1 X 2 red oak to the edges, I will have a total size of 20" X 24", which will give me approximately 20" X 48" total with four levels of shelves. I received all of the 80/20 components months ago. I still have a lot of painting to do at my kids houses, so this will be a work-in-between project. But I'll try to post updates as I go.
Steve
 
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I have a little story to tell about getting my shelf pieces with true square corners. I have done intermittent wood working my whole life, but it has never been a passion, and my experience has been stop and start. So I still have a lot to learn. The 4' X 8' sheet was too large to manage on my table saw, so I bought a Kreg device that holds a circular saw in a sled and provides a straight edge to guide it. Well, even with a new blade, I was unable to get perfectly square corners. So I had four 2' X 4' sections with most corners being slightly out of square. I went to Home Depot and bought a precut 2' X 4' X 3/4" piece of Masonite that I checked for perfect square - which it was. I drilled four holes in it to attach to each of my four pieces. On each piece, I aligned the short ends of the plywood and Masonite, and offset one long end of the Masonite about 1-1/2" from the edge of the 2' X 4' plywood. This made the short ends square with the long edge of the Masonite. After using 1-1/4" wood screws to attach the Masonite to the shelf piece, I set the rip fence to allow me to cut about 1/2" off of the exposed plywood while running the Masonite edge against the fence. When I removed the Masonite, the new cut corner of the shelf was perfectly square. I turned that piece over and ran the new edge on the fence to remove about 1/2" from the other side. When I got through, I had four virtually perfectly square corners on a 23" X 48" board. I know there are other more sophisticated techniques to achieve this, but most require equipment I don't have. It was quite a bit of work, but very satisfying to put that big framing square on each corner and see nearly perfect angles.
 
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Nice! Yep, you can pretty much use any perfectly square edge for a cutting guide. I use a long square that I clamp to the work piece and use that as a guide for my circular saw if it's too big for the table saw. Or some straightedge clamps - but I've found those to lose their ability to hold the work piece at times. Glad to hear you're making progress!
 
Making a little headway with my shelf components. Having to work this project in between several others higher up on the food chain. Anyway, I have the 8 shelf pieces consisting of a 3/4" red oak veneer plywood glued to a 19/32" piece of plywood I already had. I have trimmed 1 X 2 solid red oak to fit the thickness and begun gluing it to the edges. Eight finished shelves will be about 20" X 24" and will give me 4 shelf levels 48" wide. Here is a photo of a stack of five of the shelf components and a pic of the solid hardwood being glued to the edges of the plywood. Small progress, but once the shelves are completed, it just becomes an erector set project to put together with the 80/20 components.





Rack2.jpg Rack1.jpg
 
Looking good! I added the adjustable leveling feet last weekend. Tapped the central hole and they went in nicely. Now the stand is leveled front to back and side to side as well. I also picked up some additional wire keepers from tnutz.com. Just do not waste your money on their 15 series drop in wire ties - these ones -> https://www.tnutz.com/product/ac-015-a-14-turn-drop-in-cable-tie/ They are too loose, they slide freely in the extrusion, and tnutz has admitted some folks find them too loose, but as yet have not offered a refund... Just a heads-up if anyone orders from this vendor. The loop type ones work perfectly though - and they open and close to allow cables to be moved and rearranged.
 
Funny you should mention the wire keepers. I woke up this morning thinking about them (yeah, dull life). I bought the 80/20 wire keepers you mentioned in your parts list to put on the back of the rear center leg. But I woke up realizing I needed wire control horizontally on the shelves to keep the cables out of sight. I need keepers with a screw hole in the center to screw them to the backs of the shelves. Haven’t looked for them yet, but I’m sure that between Home Depot and Amazon they are readily available.:thumbsup:
 
OK....after a few months off - first, building a party pavilion in my back yard and then weather well over 100 degrees making wood finishing impossible, a cool front finally let me get my eight shelf panels stained and varnished today. Everything is Red Oak, which really only takes stain in the grain, and two coats of polyurethane varnish. I am basically ready for assembly, so I pulled out all of the 80/20 stuff that I ordered and found that the pan head screws I ordered are 7/8" long and too long. The T-nut tightens down before the screw gets tight against the bracket, so the bracket stays loose. So.....ordered some 5/8" and 3/4" screws from 80/20 to make sure I have the right length. When I get the screws, I should be ready to assemble. One end of each shelf has two 1 X 2's to make a perfect square for the corner aluminum leg. The other end has one 1 X 2 so that two shelves can meet in the middle and have room for the center leg. I didn't trust my modest woodworking skills to cut out the corners exactly right, so took the easy way out. These panels are 1-1/2" thick double plywood, so I think they will be plenty strong. I think it's going to look great. Can't wait to get it finished and get some units displayed in it.
Steve

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Cool weather finally came allowing me to finish this cabinet that I have been working on for far too long. It turned out to be everything I hoped it would be. Much thanks to jcolleteiii for the design and inspiration for this rack. I have many other receivers, but right now, I'm using my Marantz 2325, a 2270 and a 1200 integrated with a Dual 1229 and Marantz TT530 linear tracker turntables. Speakers are JBL L-100's and Klipsch Forte's. My listening room is quite small, so the arrangement isn't ideal, but the sound is magnificent. Anyway, here are a few pics of the final product. I redesigned the shelves due to my lack of woodworking expertise and desire NOT to have to cut 32 perfect 1.5" X 1.5" square corners. Final dimensions are 48-3/4"W X 20"D X 31-1/2"H. I also added threaded self leveling feet (with felt gliders so I can pull the VERY heavy unit out to change the equipment or wiring. This thing is solid as a rock, and the Dual, which always was finicky about rumble feedback is quiet as a mouse even at high volume.
Steve

Showing how the panels fit together with the legs.
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Front of cabinet. The metal looks orange due to the terrible lighting in the room.
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Back side showing cable management clips
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Close up of self leveling foot hardware
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Equipment in place and wired up.
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How it all looks from the listening loveseat.
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I know this is an older thread , but hey... bump anyway. I was on the verge of ordering a Salamander Designs Synergy S40B/B Audio Rack kit, when I found this thread. I like what the OP has done, and after looking at the 80/20 site and catalog in detail, I am in the beginning stages of planning to do something similar in all black. I'm thinking of building a 2 bay wide unit with 38" tall T-slot rail posts. I'm thinking of going 17 1/2" deep and 47 1/2" inches wide in order to make efficient use of the plywood or whatever panel I use for the top and bottom. Planning on 3 adjustable shelves each side. The attachment of posts top and bottom and the best way to brace against racking and flexing side to side are still thinking points at this time. The website says the ends of the posts (15 series black) can be factory threaded. I've also found that MSC seems to stock a lot of the parts.
But, right now, too many other distractions this summer, so I plan to get serious with this some time in September.
 
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When I talked to the 80/20 sales rep, she pretty much talked me out of paying to have them thread the ends for the feet. I already had a tap T-handle, but had to order the proper tap. It was fairly easy to tap the six legs. Lateral stability needs no thought. With those large L-brackets having two fasteners each, there is zero lateral play in the system. I have over 200 pounds on my stand, and it is rock solid.
Steve
 
McMaster Carr is an excellent company that I have bought from too. That said, the price per inch on 80/20's website multiplied by 12 seems to be a little lower than the equal per foot price from McMaster Carr. If I am going to consult with 80/20 on some technical issues, I think I should buy at least some of the materials from them.
 
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McMaster Carr is an excellent company that I have bought from too. That said, the price per inch on 80/20's website multiplied by 12 seems to be a little lower than the equal per foot price from McMaster Carr. If I am going to consult with 80/20 on some technical issues, I think I should buy at least some of the materials from them.
McMaster Carr is not always the cheapest, but it is a great one-way stop where you can find pretty much everything for your project. I order from the all the time, always a great experience. Once I had a bad digital level, they sent a new one no questions asked—didn't even have to return the broken one.

The rack turned out really nice by the way. Glad to see the hardwood covered edges. Personally, I prefer linseed oil and shellac as a finish. Especially on hardwoods, it just makes the wood glow. Finally polish with rotten stone and a lightly wet rag. Did my speakers that way...

DIY rules :)
 
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