DIY record cleaning machine (RCM) consolidation and resource thread

[dfunghi]

The learning curve is narrowing. I find a high pressure rinse (I use a hand held pump bottle) works wonders. This got me thinking about my Waterpic? If I could figure a way to follow the grooves and have this (super) high pressure water blast out all the (most) junk it may be a really nice clean job. Now to try and figure out how to do that. Going by hand takes way, way too many revolutions of the LP as the waterpic is doing a groove or two at a time.

 

[Beer&Bourbon]

Seeking some advice here.

The part that I'm not sure about seems to be commonly neglected in these build threads. I've read all of this thread and most of the threads in the first post, but can't seem to find information about coupling the motor to the platter. My solution: 6mm drive motor shaft - motor shaft coupler (6x6.35) - 1/4" threaded rod. On the threaded rod: nut - washer - tt platter - nut - tt mat - vinyl - washer - wing nut. I plan to replace the final washer with a hockey puck with a 1/4" hold drilled in the middle.

The concern is that the platter will not actually be coupled to the 1/4" threaded rod (just pressure fit with the nuts on either side). While the rod fits fairly snug through the platter it spins relatively freely within the platter - how will I attach the platter to the threaded rod? Should I just use some adhesive? I don't have ready access to a welder, but that's a possible option. Anything else that would be easier?

The rest of the build if anyone is interested: I threw a quick prototype box together with some wood sitting around the house. I'm using the VPI arm wand with both 12" and 10" arms for 33 and 78 rpm. I'll be attaching this to a wet dry vacuum via plumbing.

I'll be installing a GFCI outlet in the unit which will connect to a wall outlet. One of the plugs will always have power (to the motor which is have a DC switch) and the other will be switched (to control power to the vacuum plug - so I can control the vacuum at the box rather than on the unit itself). I'll then plug in both the wet dry vac and the DC wall wart for the RCM motor. The GFCI is probably an unnecessary precaution, but it doesn't add much cost to the project either. I'll hook up from the wall wart to a power jack wired to a switch and finally to the motor. The motor is a 12V DC worm gear motor with high torque that runs at 5 rpm.

 

[Beer&Bourbon]

Here is a quick mock up of the platter layout.

Again, the concern is the platter spinning around the threaded rod. I really want the platter coupled to the motor (to spin when the motor is spinning). If the threaded rod spins within the platter, the record won't spin and the whole project will be useless...

 

[Beer&Bourbon]

Any ideas here? If not I'll just head down to the hardware store to see what's available for bonding metal to metal and see how it goes. I got the motor in; with such a slow spin I think decent adhesion should be sufficient.

 

[Son-of-Vere]

Ok, question first . Do you have enough recess in the top of the platter for a nut and washer? if so, good. If not, you'll need a very thin nut (you can make them).

One way to do this is to skip the lower nut and washer and rest the platter on the end of the motor coupler. Then drill a hole (with the platter bolted on) thru the platter near the spindle all the way thru to partway into the coupler, then put a roll pin in it. This will only work if the platter is relatively flat. I'd recommend a 5/32" pin.

 

[Kfleshman]

Platter Attachment

Any ideas here? If not I'll just head down to the hardware store to see what's available for bonding metal to metal and see how it goes. I got the motor in; with such a slow spin I think decent adhesion should be sufficient.

If I can find some time I will dig up the pics from my build and/or reshoot the assembly.

In a nutshell, the motor I used had a 5" plastic turntable coupled to the D-shaft. I was able to countersink machine screws through the 12" tt platter and then, using nylon spacers, through the 5" tt and finally locking it all together with nuts and lock washers, making a sandwich of 12" platter, spacers, 5" platter.

I have since made another one for a friend and on hers the donor platter did not need spacers - I coupled it directly to the 5" platter and locked it all together with 4 screws, lockwashersd and nuts.

I have been using mine about 10 months and for over 800 vacuums with no problems. I do not think adhesive will hold up - you need mechanical attachment.

 

[Beer&Bourbon]

Thanks for the feedback! Getting some creative juices flowing.

Ok, question first . Do you have enough recess in the top of the platter for a nut and washer? if so, good. If not, you'll need a very thin nut (you can make them).

One way to do this is to skip the lower nut and washer and rest the platter on the end of the motor coupler. Then drill a hole (with the platter bolted on) thru the platter near the spindle all the way thru to partway into the coupler, then put a roll pin in it. This will only work if the platter is relatively flat. I'd recommend a 5/32" pin.

There's a small recess. I originally picked up nuts with plastic washers in them, which are definitely too big for the small (guessing around 1/8"-1/4") recess.

In a nutshell, the motor I used had a 5" plastic turntable coupled to the D-shaft. I was able to countersink machine screws through the 12" tt platter and then, using nylon spacers, through the 5" tt and finally locking it all together with nuts and lock washers, making a sandwich of 12" platter, spacers, 5" platter.

I think I saw your thread - or at least someone that had a small plastic platter attached to the motor. I don't have a platter already coupled, but this gives me an idea. I can make a small wooden puck, bore a small central hole that I can twist the 1/4" threaded rod through, and then put 4 anchoring screws through the recess in the platter into the wooden puck. Threading the rod into the puck should keep it coupled to the motor and screwing the platter to the puck should keep everything coupled to the motor.

Thoughts? Does this seem to make sense? (I can mock up another photo if not) Hopefully the mechanical coupling will keep it all together...

 

[g.e.]

This thread, and forum in general, were really helpful in my quest to build my RCM. I did a hybrid VPI Typhoon - 16.5 with some variants based on Okki Nokki and Moth machines.

I have chronicled my adventure on one of the Audio Circle forums here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=131104.0

The mechanical portion of the project is done and now I am working on the casework, switchgear / electrical aspects.

All the Best,

Greg

 

[dodog]

This thread, and forum in general, were really helpful in my quest to build my RCM. I did a hybrid VPI Typhoon - 16.5 with some variants based on Okki Nokki and Moth machines.

I have chronicled my adventure on one of the Audio Circle forums here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=131104.0

The mechanical portion of the project is done and now I am working on the casework, switchgear / electrical aspects.

All the Best,

Greg

Very nice build thread. I quite enjoyed the bad-ass tiger poster on the wall.

 

[g.e.]

Very nice build thread. I quite enjoyed the bad-ass tiger poster on the wall.

Thank you!

My wife is a fine arts painter and the tigers are her work. I will pass along your compliment!

 

[hi*ball]

Here is a quick mock up of the platter layout.

Again, the concern is the platter spinning around the threaded rod. I really want the platter coupled to the motor (to spin when the motor is spinning). If the threaded rod spins within the platter, the record won't spin and the whole project will be useless...

Here is how I put mine together (I counterbored the top to make room for the nut):

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[g.e.]

My RCM is pretty much finished. I started last December and here I am 9 months later. It started as a VPI 16.5 knock off but I upgraded some design aspects and ended up with something with Typhoon performance.

I also used some elements of Okki-Nokki and Moth for the fluid capture system.



You can read all about my journey here:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=131104.0

 

[FunkDoctor]

Hello,

I am writing this statement with confusion. I went to Grainger to pick up a motor to turn the platter for my RCM. I got a DC Motor #2L009. However, the guy that was helping was a complete dunski when I told him what I needed. How am I to power the platter, vaccum and run it to the wall. This is like my last hurdle. PLEASE HELP!

 

[dfunghi]

I turn my "platter" (cork mat on a lazy Susan) by hand. Others I know used the motor out of a GW found ice cream maker. Low RPM high torque so you can apply pressure w/o stopping motor. I like hand spun so I can control 100%.

 

[jcamero]

I looked at your motor, very simple to power up. To power the motor, all you need is a 12 volt DC wall wart. I have a similar motor on my DIY machine. I bought a momentary switch that will allow me to reverse the motor while cleaning LP's. Not enough info on your vacuum, but I use a small wet/dry vac. I plug it into the wall, (AC) and have it close enough to me to just switch it on and off as needed. Building a DIY RCM takes a lot of trial and error, numerous visits to a hardware store, and a great deal of forethought. Don't get discouraged, I asked many questions when I built mine, and got few answers. Look at GOOGLE images for ideas, YOUTUBE too.

Hello,

I am writing this statement with confusion. I went to Grainger to pick up a motor to turn the platter for my RCM. I got a DC Motor #2L009. However, the guy that was helping was a complete dunski when I told him what I needed. How am I to power the platter, vaccum and run it to the wall. This is like my last hurdle. PLEASE HELP!

 

[FunkDoctor]

I looked at your motor, very simple to power up. To power the motor, all you need is a 12 volt DC wall wart. I have a similar motor on my DIY machine. I bought a momentary switch that will allow me to reverse the motor while cleaning LP's. Not enough info on your vacuum, but I use a small wet/dry vac. I plug it into the wall, (AC) and have it close enough to me to just switch it on and off as needed. Building a DIY RCM takes a lot of trial and error, numerous visits to a hardware store, and a great deal of forethought. Don't get discouraged, I asked many questions when I built mine, and got few answers. Look at GOOGLE images for ideas, YOUTUBE too.

Dude you saved my life. I literally felt like I was in a foreign land. Thank you for that aid.

 

[DC]

I also use a DC motor and wired a DPDT switch to reverse the polarity so I can scrub forward and reverse.

If I had it to do all over again I'd just buy a VPI Typhoon, but the DIY approach fit my budget at first.

 

[FunkDoctor]

Dude you saved my life. I literally felt like I was in a foreign land. Thank you for that aid.

Well this is my question. I have a tall cabinet and want to run a power cord from the cabinet to the wall. I would like to have a switch to do front and reverse spins on the motor as well as a separate one for the vaccum.

 

[FunkDoctor]

I also use a DC motor and wired a DPDT switch to reverse the polarity so I can scrub forward and reverse.

If I had it to do all over again I'd just buy a VPI Typhoon, but the DIY approach fit my budget at first.

I am beginning to lean that way. I just don't want to f somehthing up and set my house of fire.

 

[DC]

Here is a diagram for wiring the switch to switch direction:

http://www.instructables.com/file/F2XEWW5F3HY3U9G/