DIY TX-SR607 HDMI Fix

Sam08861

Super Member
Hi,

There's lots of photos, etc, for the Onkyo TX-SR606 but none showing exactly which capacitors need to be replaced for the 607 model, so posting these in case anyone else has this problem. (The picture, via HDMI in/out takes between 30 seconds to 15 minutes to appear, instead of instantly OR, the On screen display isn't working anymore)

(see how to video for 606 here as it's a great tutorial on what needs to be done and the major steps not covered here...

)



As such, here they are the before/after, clearly showing which 100uf 4V aluminum polymers caps are replaced by the same spec, but 105C instead of 85C capacitors.

I used these and they worked fine. https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Organic-Polymer-Capacitors-pieces/dp/B00LWT7CX6

Glad I got 10, as 3 were ruined so ended up using 8 of the 10, even though I only had to replace 5 capacitors. The legs are delicate, so lost 3 that way. The procedure has a great video online for the 606, and this is almost the exactly same and this one is easier as all the caps are on one side.

Caps are: C8452, C8096, C8582, C8072, C8162

Before... Note All the items marked...

BT
100
4V

IMG-1002.JPG

These are the targets, and there's only 5 on the board.

The black semi circle marking on one side, indicates the negative leg of the capacitor, and in all cases, point to the square portion of the markings on the circuit board. If you replace them one at a time, no need to remember, just put the marked end toward the square marking on the circuit board.

And the items replaced, easily identify-able because they have red markings instead of black.

IMG_1005 copy.jpg

Looks like the AK pictures get dumbed down a bit, but PM me if you want a full res image for whatever reason as my images have all the small text on the circuit board and components clearly and easily readable.

All in all, takes about 30 minutes start to finish, if you count the time to find all your tools (soldering iron, solder, pliers, flux, screwdrivers, etc.)

If you have everything handy 15 minutes.... about 5 mins to pop out the board, 5 mins to solder, and 5 mins to put everything back together again and test.

Hope this helps someone!
 
Last edited:
This did help someone, Me!. I know this post is old but ,the video you linked had the capacitors in different locations, and i was only able to fix the issue using the images you provided, so thank you!
 
I know this post is even older now, but this thread made it a lot easier to find and replace the 5 capacitors. Thanks!

But my problem still persists, I still have no OSD and no upscaling from composite in or component in to HDMI out.

Anyway, I guess the HDMI board will now survive for infinity as the new caps are higher voltage and higher temp.

I will continue my quest to fix the On Screen Display menu and the output of analog signals to the HDMI out.

Sometimes I feel the need for some old-school xbox (gen 1) or Wii, and would be nice with less cables and switching input on the projector.
 
I just finished repairing a TX-SR607 with no OSD so I thought I'd comment here on what I found. Many videos and forums recommend replacing the 100uF/4V eCaps, but when I tested my board, a number of the 220uF/16V and 470uF/10V caps were out of spec. The 470uF/16V caps couldn't be tested in circuit. Based on this, it seemed like the prudent thing to do to just replace all 21 of them on the board:

1 x 22uF/4V
5 x 100uF/4V
7 x 220uF/4V
3 x 470uF/10V
5 x 470uF/16V

I used Nichicon VR radial lead caps for all of them and used voltage ratings at or above the originals depending on what I had. Out of circuit, half of the caps tested really bad and the rest were marginal or OK. I also added a 12V fan attached to the inside of the cover and wired it to the Universal Port PC board with a connector that allows it to be disconnected when you removed the cover. The port is rated for 0.5A @ 12V. Everything now works great and the fan will keep it cool so the same thing doesn't happen again . . . 12 years from now lol.

Rich
 
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