Do I want a subwoofer

[enginedr]

Two is nice but using 4 for distributed bass is the best way

 

[darkblue94]

Two is nice but using 4 for distrusted bass is the best way

What in the heck is "distrusted" bass? I would prefer to feel that I can have trust in all aspects of my equipment's performance.

In bass we trust.

 

[djnagle]

Google distributed bass. I run 4 subs in my room and anywere in the room the sub signals are the same volume and clear

 

[darkblue94]

Google distributed bass. I run 4 subs in my room and anywere in the room the sub signals are the same volume and clear

I'm well aware of "distributed bass," I just ain't ever heard of any such thing as "distrusted bass."

 

[musichal]

It is typical for a first-time subwoofer owner to set its level a bit too high - be prepared to adjust the level down over the first few weeks, because adding to that tendency is the fact that, if you buy a new one, it also will loosen up its moving parts as you use it, extending the bass, and level, a bit more as it breaks in. At least, that has been my observation, and experience.

 

[mattd008]

Lots of these posts are helpful.

 

[darkblue94]

Lots of these posts are helpful.

That indicates this thread is better than average.

 

[Porkloin]

What in the heck is "distrusted" bass? I would prefer to feel that I can have trust in all aspects of my equipment's performance.

In bass we trust.

It's very similar to "disturbed bass".

 

[James Hart]

To our civilized side, they provide the "ambience" of a concert hall, but to the kid lurking under the surface, they're the audio equivalent of giant tires on a 4 X 4.

Exactly! I run a passive M&K sub that takes everything from 75Hz down and passes the rest to my mains. It isn't that noticeable until you take it out of the mix. It makes live stuff and orchestra stuff sound and feel bigger.

 

[soundmotor]

Lots of these posts are helpful.

It's the end of the month so most are out of snark.

 

[jberger]

You don't want a subwoofer. You want two subwoofers

I was thinking three, but you've got to acquire them one at a time.

 

[Liefloff]

I'm a big fan of the Miller and Kreisel sealed dual driver subs. I own three and the M&K brand seems to last and last, but then I don't rive the heck out of them. My theater LFE signal is handled by an Epik Conquest. Once you get used to a dual quality sub setup helping out your stereo speakers, you'll have a hard time going back. My ADS L1530s and L1590s have plenty of low end - but they can't do it alone as well. I believe all the MX series have phase reverse and some have adjustable phase. I own two MX-125s and an MX-5000. A few buddies of mine are set up with an MX-105 and an MX-350. On the other side of the coin - you'll need to spend at least $200 - $300 for a unit in average condition and upwards of $600 for the better MX's. You won't go wrong buying two of any of the MX-*** series.

 

[xero-D-hero]

I would wanna know more about the room & system before giving advice here.
If it's a smaller room with a 50wpc (or <) amp then I dont see a need for four 18" subs just to bolster some baby advent II's,,,LOL...

A nice 100-150wpc 8" sub can work fine for a rig like that in a 10' x 10'ish room.
And those are a lot easier & cheaper to learn subwoofer 101 with.

Both my bedroom systems use a sub like that.
Main BR system uses a Celestion S20 sub (AKA: KEF PSW-1150) and that one is an 8" woofer 150wpc front firing slot ported enclosure.
That rig uses a TEAC A-1D integrated rated @ 50wpc > either the wall mount JBL LX-22 -or- the Optimus Pro7AV mounted above my bed.

And my headphone/nearfield rig uses a Canton AS85-SC sub,that sub is a 9" woofer 150wpc front firing tube ported enclosure.
That rig's amp is an EV 7100 rated @ 100wpc > the Canton GL-260 4ohm speakers.

Both subs integrated very nicely into those systems and the room,and both blend in very well and sound excellent.
IMO one key feature for making those subs work in this room is the variable phase control both subs have.
That's an especially important tool as placement can be a tough go in a small room.

And the best part is each were < $200.00 all said & done.
The Canton sub was NIB/factory sealed to boot,and that sub typically retails for > $500.00.

I also agree a nice passive sub could work well here,the Canton Plus S/Plus C combo is a very good sounding sat/sub combo.
So ask me it would be pretty easy to replicate something like that with those baby Advent II's and a decent passive sub.

IME it's all about keeping the big picture in view and not getting too carried away.

My guess is were this a 20' x 20' or > room with a 200wpc rig the OP would'nt be using those baby Advent II's in the first place...

Of course YMMV.

Bret P.

 

[432HzBob]

Yes.
2 if you can.
Turn em off if you don;t need them.

 

[sax6]

In my own humble opinion, I feel that subwoofer bass is a lie.

I'm prepared for crucifixion.

 

[JoeESP9]

I guess you haven't heard a good one or two properly set up?

Pray tell. What's there to lie about?

 

[ScooterMcTav]

I've had integration problems, as well as hate the fact that powered sub levels constantly need to be adjusted based on the source material, or the source. Possibly it is me, or the subs I've used, but have just never found happiness.

Decided a number of years ago that I would no longer use a sub for 2-channel (HT only), and that I'd only buy bass-capable speakers. No regrets, especially as the quality of the bass is so much more natural and tonally correct when it comes from the same speaker where the high stuff comes from.

I'd likely change speakers. However, if you love your BAs, then as others have suggested, a pair of passive subs is all I'd add; one underneath each speaker.

 

[JoeESP9]

I've been using DIY TL subs for 19 years. Once dialed in properly they need no further adjustment regardless of the source and its quality. IME all but seriously expensive assaults on the state of the art will benefit from the addition of a subwoofer or two. If you feel the need to constantly adjust a subwoofer it's almost always because it's not properly integrated.

 

[SaturationPt]

I've been using DIY TL subs for 19 years. Once dialed in properly they need no further adjustment regardless of the source and its quality. IME all but seriously expensive assaults on the state of the art will benefit from the addition of a subwoofer or two. If you feel the need to constantly adjust a subwoofer it's almost always because it's not properly integrated.

x2 except the DIY part.

I have had good and bad experiences with 2-channel sub integration, but when properly integrated a sub can be an excellent way to extend bass on a speaker system that can't go there on its own. If you are happy with your speakers and want to go deeper, this is your only option.

However, there are also a great many speakers that don't need a sub / have one built-in. Some are passive, others are active, and go as low as many of the subs that people are adding to their systems, ... and have already been matched to the speakers' response and efficiency. I had a pair of PSB speakers with response down to 25hz (-1dB @ 36Hz) and were better at those frequencies than most subs that I have owned.

 

[JoeESP9]

If a subs response doesn't extend to or can't be equalized to 20Hz (@+100dB) and below IMO it's not a real sub. There are a lot of pretenders out there.