Dual 1009 Restoration

[ewplayer3]

Hey everyone,

Long time music listener, first time turntable owner. After quite the debate back and forth, I picked up a Dual 1009 from eBay this week for $40.

A part of me wishes I hadn't. I, unfortunately, missed some of the thread discussions about buying turntables on eBay before I bought. However, the seller, by some miracle, managed to pack the thing well enough that it arrived in one piece.

It needs a little love, but I think it's going to be a great table once I've done some work to it. The motor is still strong and the tone arm looks to be in good condition. I had just a couple of quick questions that I was hoping someone with the same or similar table could answer....

1) One of the points of work to be done is the idler. It either needs to be replaced all together, or hopefully is restorable with a little work. The question is which... The rubber is still mildly pliable, but the outside edge is very shiny and slippery. Obviously it won't turn the platter. Anyone have any experience restoring these to working condition? If so, how? If it needs to be replaced, does anyone have a good source for this?

2) Cartridges/Stylus... Any recommendations? They look original and quite well worn at this point. So, any recommendations on replacements would be much appreciated.

3) Any weak points or trouble spots to watch out for with these turntables?

I've got the service manual downloaded and feel mechanically competent enough to clean and lube it from bottom to top. I'm extremely excited to get it up and running.

 

[malden]

1) A quick fix (and possibly the only fix required) would be to remove the idler and clean it with warm water and a green scotch pad. Then clean the brass motor spindle and inside surface of the platter, where the idler contacts it, with alcohol. That should get the platter spinning.

2) What cartridge is currently mounted in the tonearm? It may simply need a new stylus.

3) There are many. Get 1 & 2 figured out to get a sense of what else it needs.

 

[JFRACE]

For the idler wheel, I'd also take it off and use sandpaper and a drill, put the wheel in the drill and spin it against the sandpaper to expose new rubber, it doesn't need much pressure, or have to be a heavy grit. Then use the green scotch pad on the inside rim. Before reinstalling, use alcohol to clean it off and try not to touch it much on the rim with your fingers.You may want to use a small regular screwdriver and push down the screw slot while using your 3 fingers under the wheel and pull it up and off.There's a clear plastic ring on there that holds it down and steady pressure will lift it off. I'd also clean the whole table up with alcohol (91% isopropyl+),q-tips, and then get the "lube kit" on Ebay for "Dual tables".It's alvania grease. You'll want to clean the cam off as well underneath and lightly grease the table with the Alvania and use a light oil on other parts. I'd also deoxit all contact points and the top side and underside of the arm and the mute switch along with the RCA plugs and jacks.

Once you clean the table and oil the joints for the idler wheel and the spindle it goes on, make sure it lines up with each spot of the motor spindle where the speed control is, if it's off on speed, you can adjust the idler this way as well to sit on each pole position better.

I would also take the motor apart,and relube it after cleaning it as well. Just draw a line with a marker so you know where to re-align it.

I had to do all of these things on my 1019 (2 of them I did) and am very happy with the table. They are very strong performers, and the 10 inch platter is no issue for me. I actually like my 1019 better than my old 1229Q I wound up selling.

The weak point on the table is the head shell sled, but if you look at Pats on Ebay, I think he does an aftermarket sled for them. His sleds are very well made.I'd also sign up to vinylengine if you're not there and go under the Dual page. There's several on here who are very good with Duals, and several on VE. It seems though VE has more of a following when it comes to Dual tables. The bottom table in my avatar pic is my 1019.

 

[ewplayer3]

1) A quick fix (and possibly the only fix required) would be to remove the idler and clean it with warm water and a green scotch pad. Then clean the brass motor spindle and inside surface of the platter, where the idler contacts it, with alcohol. That should get the platter spinning.

2) What cartridge is currently mounted in the tonearm? It may simply need a new stylus.

3) There are many. Get 1 & 2 figured out to get a sense of what else it needs.

I'm not entirely sure what cartridge is installed. There don't appear to be any markings on it. I plan to, likely on Sunday, start to carefully pull things apart and examine them. The cartridge is one of the things on my list. Hopefully I'll find some markings once I get it removed.

For the idler wheel, I'd also take it off and use sandpaper and a drill, put the wheel in the drill and spin it against the sandpaper to expose new rubber, it doesn't need much pressure, or have to be a heavy grit. Then use the green scotch pad on the inside rim. Before reinstalling, use alcohol to clean it off and try not to touch it much on the rim with your fingers.You may want to use a small regular screwdriver and push down the screw slot while using your 3 fingers under the wheel and pull it up and off.There's a clear plastic ring on there that holds it down and steady pressure will lift it off. I'd also clean the whole table up with alcohol (91% isopropyl+),q-tips, and then get the "lube kit" on Ebay for "Dual tables".It's alvania grease. You'll want to clean the cam off as well underneath and lightly grease the table with the Alvania and use a light oil on other parts. I'd also deoxit all contact points and the top side and underside of the arm and the mute switch along with the RCA plugs and jacks.

Once you clean the table and oil the joints for the idler wheel and the spindle it goes on, make sure it lines up with each spot of the motor spindle where the speed control is, if it's off on speed, you can adjust the idler this way as well to sit on each pole position better.

I would also take the motor apart,and relube it after cleaning it as well. Just draw a line with a marker so you know where to re-align it.

I had to do all of these things on my 1019 (2 of them I did) and am very happy with the table. They are very strong performers, and the 10 inch platter is no issue for me. I actually like my 1019 better than my old 1229Q I wound up selling.

The weak point on the table is the head shell sled, but if you look at Pats on Ebay, I think he does an aftermarket sled for them. His sleds are very well made.I'd also sign up to vinylengine if you're not there and go under the Dual page. There's several on here who are very good with Duals, and several on VE. It seems though VE has more of a following when it comes to Dual tables. The bottom table in my avatar pic is my 1019.

Thank you both for the advice on how to restore the idler. I'll be giving that a try.

I'll have to look in to the lube kits. Light oil and Deoxit I've got; Alvania is a different story. Just curious if you've get any opinions on Lithium Grease? I know I've got some of that on hand.

Interesting bit about the head shell sled. I'll use extra care when removing the cart. I had seen that the 1019 had issues with that. I wasn't sure if it would be the same with the 1009. Man, I've learned wayyyy more about turntables in the last two weeks than I ever thought I would.

I'm already signed up for VE so I can download the service manual. I'll have to surf the threads over there. Thanks for the recommendations.

 

[malden]

Do you have the 1009 or 1009-SK or 1009-F?

 

[ewplayer3]

Do you have the 1009 or 1009-SK or 1009-F?

It's a straight 1009. No anti-skate and it has the pitch control.

 

[malden]

It's a straight 1009. No anti-skate and it has the pitch control.

In my opinion, that is the best 1009. The cartridge sled and head-shell contacts can be freshened up with either deoxit and a q-tip or simply a pencil eraser, don't forget the RCA cable ends.

Regarding the idler and such, water, a green scotch pad and some alcohol will go a long way. I would avoid sand-paper, steel wool and power drills until you are absolutely sure about what you are doing.

 

[ewplayer3]

UPDATE: With the little time I had this weekend, I pulled off the platter and removed the platter mat and idler wheel. I gave them both a soak and was reasonably successfully with softening up the mat, but the idler is a different story.

I worked it with the alcohol and scotch pad without much success. The platter does turn now (didn't at all before), but not without some help to get it started. I'm going to give it another go round tonight and hope that does it. If not, are there any good idler rebuild services here in the states?

I also noticed a capacitor listed in the service manual. Based on the schematic, it looks like it's being used for spark reduction when the motor is switched off. Sure enough, I pulled the cover off that hides those wires and found a paper cap. Eeek! That's going to have to go. I'll be ordering a replacement when I order the parts for my Yamaha CR-220.

Sorry I haven't gotten to the cart yet. A house full of kids tends to limit the time I have to work on things.

 

[dbxdx5]

http://www.terrysrubberrollers.com

 

[ewplayer3]

Good news: I had another go at the idler with better success last night. It has much better grip now and seems capable of turning the platter without help.

Bad News: In the midst of testing the refreshed wheel, I've discovered that both of the tension springs (labeled 66 and 89 in the service manual) have gotten pretty weak and aren't properly holding the wheel against the motor as a result. There's lots of play in the idler assembly. I assume I can pick up a couple of fresh springs from my local hardware store? I don't see any specifics on these springs in the service manual. So, my assumption is that I should look for the closest replacements I can find there.

Also, I thought the table seemed relatively well lubed out of the box, but fiddling with parts on the bottom side of the table has made me realize otherwise. Looks like a full teardown and relube is in order after all.

 

[bangsezmax]

When I started doing repairs, I used to do all I could to avoid getting a replacement idler. Now I just accept as a fact of life that rubber ages and loses its grip.

I've rarely had to mess with the tension springs on Duals and I've repaired a lot of them. Replacing springs is far from simple -- it's not like there's a standardized set of measurements like there are for screws.

My recommendation would be to get a known good idler and then start tackling the remaining issues. VOM has them and they're not too expensive. You do have to send your old one in first though.

You haven't mentioned whether or not the unit can auto-cycle. This is another test for the strength of your idler wheel.

 

[malden]

Good news: I had another go at the idler with better success last night. It has much better grip now and seems capable of turning the platter without help.

Bad News: In the midst of testing the refreshed wheel, I've discovered that both of the tension springs (labeled 66 and 89 in the service manual) have gotten pretty weak and aren't properly holding the wheel against the motor as a result. There's lots of play in the idler assembly. I assume I can pick up a couple of fresh springs from my local hardware store? I don't see any specifics on these springs in the service manual. So, my assumption is that I should look for the closest replacements I can find there.

Also, I thought the table seemed relatively well lubed out of the box, but fiddling with parts on the bottom side of the table has made me realize otherwise. Looks like a full teardown and relube is in order after all.

Have you checked the platter speed with a strobe disk, or at least a known record?

 

[ewplayer3]

As it stands right now, it can auto cycle.... sort of. If I hold the idler assembly in place, it seems to do okay. If I don't the platter stops spinning as soon as the tone arm lift engages.

I chalked that up to a couple of factors. I manually rotated the cam with the platter off, which revealed the situation with needing to be cleaned and lubed. The other was the tension springs.

Unfortunately, I don't really have a good frame of reference for how much force the tension springs should have, but there's really a lot of play in the idler assembly. Enough that, if I plug in the table and set it to start, the idler moves to the motor and starts to spin, but I can pull the assembly away from the motor quite easily and it won't always return to the motor all the way. In fact, I can't even get the motor to engage the idler when set to 16 RPM unless I hold it in place.

 

[malden]

But when the platter is spinning, is the speed correct?

 

[ewplayer3]

Have you checked the platter speed with a strobe disk, or at least a known record?

I was going to make an attempt last night with a record, but alas, the stylus is completely shot, there's nothing left on it to get it to track across the record. As far as the strobe disk, I just ordered one last night.

 

[ewplayer3]

But when the platter is spinning, is the speed correct?

I think it is, but I don't have the correct methods to confirm right now. I did my best to estimate by visually tracking one of the holes in the platter and counting the number of cycles over a minute period. Obviously that's not an exact science, hence the ordering of a strobe disk. But, I was curious to find out if it was at least close.

 

[bberkom]

Before you try to replace the tension springs, make sure you clean all of the old grease and lube off of the assembly that moves the idler. The springs may be fine with the dried old grease preventing the arm that holds the idler from moving freely. I have done a few of these and cleaning that area has always helped.

 

[malden]

Until you confirm that the platter is either spinning at the appropriate speed or not, I wouldn't get hung up on the springs that control the idler assembly. Get it working first, then address some of the minor issues.

 

[stevo137]

So glad to see this thread!

I just finally bought my 1009 and this thread will help me a lot.

I hope your restoration finishes very well!

I have a lot of respect for those that do this technical work but I'm not one of them.

Thanks!

 

[ewplayer3]

Before you try to replace the tension springs, make sure you clean all of the old grease and lube off of the assembly that moves the idler. The springs may be fine with the dried old grease preventing the arm that holds the idler from moving freely. I have done a few of these and cleaning that area has always helped.

Until you confirm that the platter is either spinning at the appropriate speed or not, I wouldn't worry about the springs that control the idler assembly. Get it working first, then address some of the minor issues.

Fair enough on both counts. I'll be waiting for the strobe disk to show up and will proceed from that point once I've confirmed the speed.