Dual 1009 Restoration

Since I used steel wool (#0000) to clean the contacts on the sled. Now how to do that for the tonearm portion of the cartridge head.

So it hit me to create steel wool q-tips from regular q-tips. Using Detox and my newly manufactured steel wool q-tips--I removed enough tarnish to see some sheen. Wish I can apply enough pressure on the contacts for a total cleaning.

Anyone have a better idea to totally clean off the tarnish buildup?
 
For now, it playing great again. Just like to get those contacts fully clean again.

[UPDATE}

The hum is back. If the receiver is on and I remove the cartridge sled--the hum disappears. If I replace the cartridge sled back into the cartridge head of the tonearm--the hum returns.

Jiminy-crickets!!

Any ideas?
 
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Try metal polish, no DeOxit. Get Simichrome or Noxon and polish the contacts. Don't use sand paper.
Pull the cartridge clips and polish the inside of them, too. Polish the pins on the cartridge. Clean everything with pure isopropyl when you're done. This has worked for me over and over again. DeOxit is a fail, same with pencil erasers.
When I got my 1019 everything functioned perfectly except that there was hum and no music. It took several tries with the metal polish before I got both channels working. I have about half-dozen sleds for my Dual 1209, they all needed to be cleaned in this manor before they'd work. All three Dual-made sleds for the 1019 also needed the same treatment.
Notransistors believes that the slight residue left by DeOxit interferes with the extremely small signal coming from the cartridge and he's right. I've never got DeOxit to work on any Dual sled.
 
I just finished mounting a much of my old Shures up on Head sleds and had to go through each one as all pins were dirty. But I never hear rumble so It's a small price. Nice job! ,cheers , Nemo
 
I sometimes have a heck of a time getting them aligned properly and wind up with a pin tweaked a bit and will redo and it works but I simply can't see them so with a jewlers magnifier and my glasses I do get it done but its why I try and have redundancy so worst. case is plug another deck in. It's getting tough to see even to put text on the site. I suppose soon that stops also. Probably to the relief of a few.. enjoy that dual. I have 3 now and al.ost picked a 4th uo but I just am not sure I really need it...want yea. But oh well:)
 
I have been sort of following this, and looking back at the earliest posts by the OP, I need to once again put in my $.02 .
The Dual tables made in the early 1960s have foam oil wicks around the motor bushings. They turn to dust and must be replaced with cotton felt.
 
NoTransistors said:
I have been sort of following this, and looking back at the earliest posts by the OP, I need to once again put in my $.02 .
The Dual tables made in the early 1960s have foam oil wicks around the motor bushings. They turn to dust and must be replaced with cotton felt.
Click to expand...

Yes...when I had the motor apart, it looked good--plus something soaked up a lot of oil. The motor runs smooth and vibration free...kinda amazing for as old as it is.

If and when I have to perform a complete motor rebuild, I will reference this article: https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=64204&start=30. This explains what you idenitifed very well.

Thanks for the note...I will be re-examining the gears and the motor again this weekend. I will take another look at the oil cups.
 
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olddude55 said:
Try metal polish, no DeOxit. Get Simichrome or Noxon and polish the contacts. Don't use sand paper.
Pull the cartridge clips and polish the inside of them, too. Polish the pins on the cartridge. Clean everything with pure isopropyl when you're done. This has worked for me over and over again. DeOxit is a fail, same with pencil erasers.
When I got my 1019 everything functioned perfectly except that there was hum and no music. It took several tries with the metal polish before I got both channels working. I have about half-dozen sleds for my Dual 1209, they all needed to be cleaned in this manor before they'd work. All three Dual-made sleds for the 1019 also needed the same treatment.
Notransistors believes that the slight residue left by DeOxit interferes with the extremely small signal coming from the cartridge and he's right. I've never got DeOxit to work on any Dual sled.
Click to expand...

OK...awesome! I will try some Noxon this weekend.
 
olddude55 said:
Try metal polish, no DeOxit. Get Simichrome or Noxon and polish the contacts. Don't use sand paper.
Pull the cartridge clips and polish the inside of them, too. Polish the pins on the cartridge.
Click to expand...

Awesome suggestion! Love you long-time Dual experts and I really appreciate your knowledge and experience. Learning as I go!

I picked up some Noxon 7 Metal Polish from the local hardware store today. Using q-tips, I used Noxon 7 on the contacts inside the tonearm cartridge head. It is tight in there where I monitored my progress using a flash light to see the gradual improvements on the contacts. The Noxon paste turned the dull, blackened contacts to semi-shiny bronze/copperish finish. After some time, I cleaned the contacts with alcohol--also, I cleaned the contacts on the cartridge sled with alcohol as well.

This is a vast improvement in performance--the hum is gone!!

Tomorrow I will pull the cartridge sled and clean up the clips and polish the inside of them as you suggested. Need to pick up some pipe cleaners to do the work or something similar. The AT-142ML cartridge is brand new; hence, the posts are bright and golden.
 
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I never heard of noxon but have used what was on my shelf flitz has been go to but I would think any not abrasive should work? I clean all parts 90% isopropyl when done. Acceptable?
 
Nemo bit said:
I never heard of noxon but have used what was on my shelf flitz has been go to but I would think any not abrasive should work?
Click to expand...

My only experience with metal cleaners was Brasso. But olddude55 recommended Simichrome and Noxon for the work he previously accomplished. Noxon 7 works very well for what I need it to do. Is it as aggressive as Brasso? No...it's milder I think.
 
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Why are pipe-cleaners so hard to find. I remember them to be ubiquitous.

So I ended up soaking the cartridge sled post clips in the Noxon 7. I soaked them, ensuring the cream was inside the post contact areas, and after 15 minutes used a toothpick to scrub off tarnish that could be removed outside and within...repeated the cycle for over an hour. Now they are pretty much clean now. Though there some tarnish spots that would not dissolve. That will be for another weekend to completely clean them.
 
ArDrakho said:
Why are pipe-cleaners so hard to find. I remember them to be ubiquitous.

So I ended up soaking the cartridge sled post clips in the Noxon 7. I soaked them, ensuring the cream was inside the post contact areas, and after 15 minutes used a toothpick to scrub off tarnish that could be removed outside and within...repeated the cycle for over an hour. Now they are pretty much clean now. Though there some tarnish spots that would not dissolve. That will be for another weekend to completely clean them.
Click to expand...


"Pipe cleaners" is not PC correct. fuzzy-sticks.jpg

It took me several days, describing what I wanted to folks in the stores, to find these....

jD
 
I used toothpicks with Simichrome polish on them to clean the insides of the cartridge clips.
Something else about this thread...I've been trying polish my 1019's platter. I've got a bench grinder and buffing/polishing wheels, jeweler's rouge, etc. but I can't seem to get an even shine. Anybody got any suggestions?
If I should start a new thread with this, be glad ta.
 
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electrode101 said:
"Pipe cleaners" is not PC correct. View attachment 1265864

It took me several days, describing what I wanted to folks in the stores, to find these....

jD
Click to expand...


I do not know about political correctness [IMO is hogwash].

I finally found some at Michaels--not exactly what I wanted since these are for craftwork. The problem with these that they can leave fibers behind.

A20180826_193206A.jpg

Real premium pipe cleaners are a l'il tougher for use in smoke pipes--they should leave no fibers behind. I will be looking for the small nylon brushes that usually came with old "vintage' pipe kits at thrift stores or antique stores. Those would the best option for cleaning these contacts.
 
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