Dual turntable oil, grease, and other lube.

William907

Active Member
Dual turntable oil, grease, and other lube.

I have done a few searches for general information on this topic and haven't found a thread with a title that didn't address a specific model or part.
I am interested in products and techniques for cleaning and lubricating Dual turntables.
Some lubricants, like oil, are supposed to flow.
Some lubricants, like grease, are supposed to stay put.
Some lubricants will attract dust and make matters worse.
Some products are thought to be lubricants but are meant for another purpose.
Some cleaners can damage parts, and should be avoided.
What products are ideal to lubricate or clean a Dual turntable?
What products should be avoided like the plague?
 
If you tell us the exact model it will be easier.

Otherwise check the service manual, the name of the lube should be written there. Once you find out what was originally used, you can check the specs and try to find an alternative.

For cleaning you can use isoprophyl alcohol.
 
Over att vinylengine.com there are servicemanuals (free for download if you register) for a lot of Dual models and those usually have recommended lubricants and lubrication points in them.
Older Duals have some parts that are lubricated with a grease that is called Alvania, which is hard to find, but I think a VE member called Don (user mrow2 on VE) sells kits containing it at a reasonable cost.
Some of us have successfully used chainsaw oil instead of the adhesive (also hard to find) renotac oil specified in the service manual.

Clean carefully before putting new lube on (avoid mixing old and new stuff) and lubricate sparingly. Too much grease kan mess things up worse than too little.

I think I leave it there. There are of course a lot of opinions about this matter so I think I´ll let other more experinced dualers reply when it comes to do:s and don't:s :).
 
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If you tell us the exact model it will be easier.

Otherwise check the service manual, the name of the lube should be written there. Once you find out what was originally used, you can check the specs and try to find an alternative.

For cleaning you can use isoprophyl alcohol.

1009SK
 
If you tell us the exact model it will be easier.

Otherwise check the service manual, the name of the lube should be written there. Once you find out what was originally used, you can check the specs and try to find an alternative.

For cleaning you can use isoprophyl alcohol.
I don't want this to be about any certain model, just Dual turntables in general.
Isopropyl alcohol for cleaning old grease and oil? I have heard that.
 
WD-40, a product with a lot of misconceptions and misapplications.
It is a poor penetrating oil, and an even worse lubricant.
I find WD-40 to be a great solvent for cleaning parts.
I also like the scent of it, so using it is a joy.
Does WD-40 work as a solvent to remove the old oil and grease in a Dual turntable?
 
Hi, I just took a peek at my Dual 1219 service manual and it calls for the following types of lubricants:

1. Wacker siliconoil AK 300 000
2. Adhesive oil, Renotac No. 342
3. BP oil, super vitkostatic 10W/30
4. Shell Alvania No. 2
5. Isoflex PDP 40

Looks like #'s 3 & 4 get used the most. I take it that a good non-detergent 10W/30 automotive oil would be fine for #3 and that perhaps #4 would be a grease like Lubriplate or Phonolube? Any ideas or experiences in substituting for the others?

#1 is used on the tonearm, #2 on the spindle, and #5 on the motor. #3 & #4 are for the various linkages, pivot points, etc. underneath.

Thanks!

image.jpeg
 
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Some of us have successfully used chainsaw oil instead of the adhesive (also hard to find) renotac oil specified in the service manual.

I think I have found a good alternative for renotac.

http://www.pakelo.com/en/project/0050-59-02_eng/

After reading the description I have decided to try it for myself and it works. This should be used only for the platter shaft and idler wheel.

For the bearings, some grease designed for thrust ball bearings would is ideal.
 
I think I have found a good alternative for renotac.

http://www.pakelo.com/en/project/0050-59-02_eng/

After reading the description I have decided to try it for myself and it works. This should be used only for the platter shaft and idler wheel.

For the bearings, some grease designed for thrust ball bearings would is ideal.
I've just been studying up on Renotac.
I believe that Fuchs Lubricants still makes it, but it doesn't seem to be readily available in the US.
"High-quality raffinates with lubricity improvers and anti-wear agents. Good EP performance and adhesion (tackiness). Lubricants for all total-loss applications (plain bearings, slideways, guides etc.)."
I think the Pakelo product you linked to might work fine, but is it readily available?
 
Been using chainsaw oil instead of the Renotac adhesive oil for platter bearings. Got a gallon of the stuff. I'm thinking I can do a few more TT's with that.

Also use sewing machine oil for the light stuff. You can get that at Joann's, online, or probably Wally World.

I got a small stash of Alvania from one of the online restoration kits. I'm running out of that.

I picked up some Norvey turbine oil that is good for motor bearings.
 
"Silicone oil AK 500 000"
This would probably work,
Kyosho 500000 Silicone Oil, 40cc
www.amazon.com/dp/B0037Y5P74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_GE9oCbFRJ3A1J

If that table has the silicone damping assembly that is a cam that's smeared with the silicone sandwiched between 2 plates I would use a lighter weight. My 1215 has the cam damping assembly and 500cst was way too heavy, it wouldn't move. I thinned it with silicone oil and it worked for a while till the oil leaked out, now it's back to being too stiff. I'm not exactly sure of the weight, but I'm thinking 100-150 cst would probably be good.

I have used 500cst on the damping assemblies that use a pin and it's perfect. The 1218 is an example of a machine with the pin. My 1019 has the cam, but luckily it works fine so I'm leaving it alone.
 
If that table has the silicone damping assembly that is a cam that's smeared with the silicone sandwiched between 2 plates I would use a lighter weight. My 1215 has the cam damping assembly and 500cst was way too heavy, it wouldn't move. I thinned it with silicone oil and it worked for a while till the oil leaked out, now it's back to being too stiff. I'm not exactly sure of the weight, but I'm thinking 100-150 cst would probably be good.

I have used 500cst on the damping assemblies that use a pin and it's perfect. The 1218 is an example of a machine with the pin. My 1019 has the cam, but luckily it works fine so I'm leaving it alone.
Interesting!
My 1009SK has a cam, I believe, and it's a little slow.
This thread isn't supposed to be for just one model, so maybe we should list different silicone oil weights.
 
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