At some point I may possibly consider getting around to potentially think about refoaming some speakers. This is probably a dumb question, but is there any problem with leaving the woofer sitting horizontally outside the cabinet? That is, with the dust cap pointing toward the sky? Is that going to cause an issue with the cone if the foam is rotted out? Thanks. (Be gentle.)
darkblue94
The Devil made me do it.
No, not at all. Why not just put them back in the speaker box until you are ready to do the job?
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I just lost a Pioneer CS-99a woofer because I did not zip tie them together. I left one open and dropped a metal screen from my Marantz receiver on one. Instant slit! Protect them if you don't what to lose one.
I think we all got the impression you meant until you finally possibly consider getting around to potentially think about refoaming them.
Doug
Pretty much. The thing is that Midwest Speaker will charge me about $32 (plus tax) per speaker to refoam my Advent/1. That's not much money, especially since I know it will be done well. But evidently they also shim the cone, so that means the original dust cap will be gone, which I've read isn't necessarily good. That is, a new (likely plastic) dust cap will be used, and could affect the sound. Or won't it? It seems that with speakers, as with mechanics, if you ask four people you get five opinions. So I can't decide.
Then I want to refoam a pair of Fisher XP-7C. With these, at least the surround is attached to the top/front of the cone, so it might be a more straightforward first attempt at refoaming. But then the question of whether to shim rears its ugly head again. I just don't trust myself that I could do it right without shimming.
The other factor is that I got both sets of speakers free. So no money into them yet -- but there is always the opportunity cost of the space they occupy. Decision paralysis.
darkblue94
The Devil made me do it.
No need to shim if you use the 30hz test tone method, keeps the cone centered perfectly and the dust caps remain unmolested.
I've been using the single AA battery method successfully lately.
Doug G.
Lunatic Member
The original style dust cap should ALWAYS be used, especially if the speaker is a sealed system. In an AS system, there is usually a controlled leak (an AS speaker isn't really absolutely air-tight) through the spider/VC/ dust cap and they usually use a gauze or cloth dust cap to allow air flow. If you put a solid paper or plastic dust cap on it, the air can't flow.
There are many assertions made about refoaming drivers that just aren't true, even by "professional" speaker service businesses. One of them actually IS that the type of dust cap doesn't make any difference. Another is that the surround stiffness doesn't matter either. It does. A designer/manufacturer selects specific components to get the desired specifications and if somebody later puts ones ion there that are totally different, the driver will never be what it was designed to be.
I have never used shims or tones or batteries or anything when I have refoamed drivers and I have never had a failure. I have written many times that the cone is already centered at the spider (assuming the spider/cone joint is in good shape) and when the cone and outer edge of the surround are centered, the VC/former will find its own center. The only way a VC will end up pulled to one side is if the installer does it.
Of course, as the adhesive sets, you will want to check to be sure there is no VC rubbing by pushing down on the cone around the edges in an attempt to purposely bias the VC. No rubbing means everything is fine.
Doug
There are many assertions made about refoaming drivers that just aren't true, even by "professional" speaker service businesses. One of them actually IS that the type of dust cap doesn't make any difference. Another is that the surround stiffness doesn't matter either. It does. A designer/manufacturer selects specific components to get the desired specifications and if somebody later puts ones ion there that are totally different, the driver will never be what it was designed to be.
I have never used shims or tones or batteries or anything when I have refoamed drivers and I have never had a failure. I have written many times that the cone is already centered at the spider (assuming the spider/cone joint is in good shape) and when the cone and outer edge of the surround are centered, the VC/former will find its own center. The only way a VC will end up pulled to one side is if the installer does it.
Of course, as the adhesive sets, you will want to check to be sure there is no VC rubbing by pushing down on the cone around the edges in an attempt to purposely bias the VC. No rubbing means everything is fine.
Doug
teal'c
Nuclear Cardiac Parent
My JBL surrounds were the first I've done and I didn't use shims, tones or anything.
I did it their way.
I used the glue that came with the surrounds from R. Cobb. AK's unofficial speaker foam supplier.
https://www.ebay.com/usr/looneytune2001
I did it their way.
I used the glue that came with the surrounds from R. Cobb. AK's unofficial speaker foam supplier.
https://www.ebay.com/usr/looneytune2001
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Doug G.
Lunatic Member
I use the glue supplied by Rick and other suppliers - the white, water-based, Elmer's type. It may be a bit stronger than Elmers although I used Elmer's on my last refoams and it seems fine. The bottle indicated it is stronger than older Elmer's.
The Simply Speakers demo are good ones and I do my Advents pretty much as theirs with a couple of modifications to make it easier and faster.
Doug
The Simply Speakers demo are good ones and I do my Advents pretty much as theirs with a couple of modifications to make it easier and faster.
Doug
darkblue94
The Devil made me do it.
Aileen's Tacky glue is a great one to use.
Interesting; how is your technique different?
slimecity
Super Member
Done this on a pair of JBL Control ones. Suprisingly easy. Very straighforward job using the test tone
I think that's what I'm going to do. There are a ton of refoaming videos on youtube, but I found one that very clearly demonstrates how this works. I don't want to cut the dust cap, but it's easy to set up the test tone method. What I didn't understand before watching the video was that the test tone keeps the cone moving in a uniform way, so it looks easy to tell that it's centered.
Doug G.
Lunatic Member
Going from memory of the SS procedure, when he puts the bead of glue on the cone edge, he leaves the surround suspended on the top of the Masonite ring and brings the cone up to the inner surround flange. I work the outer flange of the surround under the Masonite ring so the inner flange rests right on the cone edge where its easy to pinch together.
Then, after the glue has set on the inner flange/cone edge, I bring the outer flange back up above the Masonite ring and apply the bead to the outer surround flange, push it back under the Masonite ring, turn the driver over and let the outer surround flange fall against the underside of the Masonite ring. Then you can just use a screwdriver to press the outer flange to the Masonite ring several times until it sets. You can turn it back the other way to check for VC rub. Turn it back magnet side up until the glue completely dries.
I also have learned to lay the beads of glue directly from the bottle to avoid the mess of spreading it around with a Q-tip or finger.
Doug
Does Aleene's give you some time to adjust things before it sets? Just wondering, because they advertise it like this: "It's formulated to tack up faster than other crafting glues"
edit: folks on some other threads indicate it takes too long to set, and that Aleene's Fast Grab is better. But I'm not in a hurry this first time, so plain old Aleene's it is, or maybe their "Clear Gel" version.
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