Eico ST40 GW Find - Where do I start?

Corbin Gross

Lost in Translation
Hey, guys. First time in the Tube forum. Good to meetcha.

So I discovered this guy in a horrible looking but very well built console the other day. I've been wanting to try a tube receiver for a while and was pretty excited to turn this up. It was with a Garrard Type A and some R2R that I'll ask about over in Tape. All for $20.

I'd love if you guys could tell me where to start with this thing. I've read some of the other threads I could find regarding the ST40 and ST70, but could use a few tips on the very first things to do checking this unit in. I'm not even sure how to test the tubes to see if they're working properly.

Thanks!
 

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ST-70 usually refers to the Dynaco amp, which is a completely different beast. I'm not familiar enough with Eico stuff to know if they also made an st70 unit. I can tell you that unit looks clean enough that you will probably just need a recap. The four bigger tubes in a row look mismatched, so it may have had some replaced along the way. Do not just plug it in and power it up. Tube gear that has been sitting a long time does better if it's slowly brought back up to speed on a Variac - a variable voltage unit that can slowly introduce the full voltage amount. I've always bought tube pieces that the PO powered it up, and then the one ST-70 that I simply powered up before knowing about the Variac suggestion. Nothing has blown on me, but it is not the safest way to handle the gear.
 
Yes Eico made a ST70 -integrated- amp. Like his ST40, both use 7591 output tubes, but utilized in the circuit differently. (OP has a bad one.... the milky white one)

Nice amp.... Yours is really nice looking too. Congrats on the whole score !!
 
Thanks for the tips.

So I've got to find one of these variable voltage things. Or, I'll take it to the local stereo shop to have him break it in. Just have to figure which is a better deal.

And thanks for the tip on the blown tube. I've read on the other posts that those four should all be replaced at the same time. Is that correct?

So, guys. lets say I had to spend like $200 on tubes and caps and whatnot. Is that going to be more than just buying on of these (or something similar) on the 'bay or whatever? I just want to get a good idea of where I go underwater with something like this.

I'm not going to try to flip it or anything, but with a TT or a speaker I usually have a pretty good idea of what I'm getting into.
 
Buying four output tubes for that would be a bit pricey. Were it me, I'd try and find a friend, shop, local AK person who could test the three (presumably) good output tubes that you have and maybe try and dig up a fourth in decent condition.

Thanks for the tips.

So I've got to find one of these variable voltage things. Or, I'll take it to the local stereo shop to have him break it in. Just have to figure which is a better deal.

And thanks for the tip on the blown tube. I've read on the other posts that those four should all be replaced at the same time. Is that correct?

So, guys. lets say I had to spend like $200 on tubes and caps and whatnot. Is that going to be more than just buying on of these (or something similar) on the 'bay or whatever? I just want to get a good idea of where I go underwater with something like this.

I'm not going to try to flip it or anything, but with a TT or a speaker I usually have a pretty good idea of what I'm getting into.
 
I think the idea of matching all four tubes is to maximize performance, but isn't a "must do" thing. Of course, I'm still learning tubes myself, and am only a few steps ahead of you.
 
these things go for 2,3,400 and more so $20 plus tubes and parts is a deal. do it.
All new caps and Rs is what I would do. of course any tubes needed.
 
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I have an ST-40 I bought about 10 years ago and rehabbed. I went through the whole thing, checking every resistor, replaced nearly every cap (including electrolytics). It has served me well.

As someone said, the white tube has lost it's vacuum and is now garbage. You're going to want to replace all four of them (I suggest JJ/Telsa 7591's). No need to bias, as the amp is cathode biased.

If someone (ie - you) has plugged it in and turned in on recently, the caps are most likely already shot and a variac will do you no good. If this is the case, you might as well put the new tubes in and power it up. If you haven't turned it on, finding someone with a variac is your best bet. Having to replace those electrolytic caps are expensive. Even with trying to reform the caps with a variac, they might be toast anyway. They're only designed to work for ten years, and your amp is about 40 years beyond that. If you get it powered on and there is a lot of hum, they're toast. My ST40 is quiet as a mouse.

Also, there is a cool mod to do to the loudness switch to make it work better. It's on the net somewhere.
 
You could always buy a set of matched EH 7591 tubes from AES for about $80 and save the original tubes. Recap and enjoy before you decide to sell - the EICO ST-40 and ST-70 are great vintage kit.

-D
 
the ST-40 and its big brother the ST-70 are good PP 7591A amps that require some well-documented "fixes" for best results, as long as the usual rehabilitation that decades-old high-voltage hardware needs.

My daily driver in MA at the moment is an ST-40 I found on the scrap metal pile at our town dump; Gary Kaufman kindly refreshed and rehab'ed it for me :) It's a very capable integrated amplifier (if not the most handsome specimen you'll ever see).

 
ST40's perform nicely, and as they were a kit are open and easy to work on. All tubes (7591, 12AX7, 12DW7 and 5AR4/GZ34) are in current production and easily available.

I've rebuilt at least a half dozen ST40's - count on replacing all electrolytics (especially the first filter cap and cathode cap), coupling caps and the obviously bad 7591A. Many will need all connections resoldered, plus the usual cleaning of switches and potentiometers. Also make sure the correct fuse is installed.

A full set of EH 7591's will run $80. As the ST40 does need matched outputs (primarily for plate current) you might be better off selling the 3 remaining 7591's and using the funds for the necessary parts.

If you didn't get a manual I can get you a scan, pm me.

If you have an interest in vintage tube gear the Eico ST40 isn't a bad first set to learn with. You'll need a working knowledge basic electronics, some simple tools, voltmeter and be willing to spend perhaps $100-120. If you can find someone local to walk you thru it's much easier - but if not there's lots of us here that can troubleshoot at a distance.

- Gary
 
I disagree with the advice to buy four new tubes. Gary's advice is good, or just buy one 7591 to get started. It is equally important to see if the small tubes and the rectifier are working, to check that the correct fuse is in place, etc.

You can get the whole kit assembly manual on the web. There are links on this Italian page: http://w3.uniroma1.it/chemo/attivita/eicost40.html

I got mine in non-working condition, but all it needed was a new 5AR4 and a correct fuse to play. Once you know you've got a working unit, then the tube sockets need cleaning a recapping is in order. There is a loudness switch mod that's worth doing too, and Kegger has a nice thread that guides you through a rebuild to use common 6L6 tubes and save two of the 12DW7s.

Mine's playing right here and I enjoy it as much as my Dynaco ST70.
 
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Congrats on the great deal! Great amp once you recap( a must as you Risk All the Transformers & Output Tubes) it etc!

Make sure to never run it without a load (speakers or a 16 ohm 25W resistor per channel) as you risk the Output Transformers.

You can also strap individuial caps under the chassis or even replace some of the can caps with individual large caps made by JJ or Nichicon or Panasonic all good brands. This will be less $ then the can caps for sale out there also.
You can leave the old cans in place (unhooked) for the stock look also.

A light bulb in series with the variac (also called a dim bulb tester) is a good idea so you can tell you have a short when slowly bringing the voltage up over several hours. Also a great idea after replacing caps so you know you got it right.

You can diy if you take lots of pics and only replace one cap a time checking it for correct operation after.

Fixed bias or Dave Gillespies adjustable EFB fixed bias mode can also be added to that amp for an improvement down the road when your more experienced.

Check out the Tronola site for more info, and join the yahoo online group.

http://www.tronola.com/
 
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One good vintage 7591 is going to cost about $50, whereas a quad of matched new replacements will run you about $30 more. Chances are the remaining 3 are worn out to some degree. Seems like a simple decision to me, and the matched new tubes are going to sound better.
 
My experiences are with the more-powerful ST-70, but I think the amps are similar enough for them to apply.

I didn't bother trying to reform old electrolytic capacitors; I just replaced them all. Fortunately, Antique Electronics Supply has the can capacitors used by older amps as drop-in replacements. They are, though, $35 each. But even if you decide to replace the cans with separate capacitors, they must be rated for high voltages (at least 350V) and so are comparatively expensive (I saw them at about $10 each; if anyone can find some for much less, it's fine with me, as I still have an ST96 tuner to re-cap).

I was able to get an Eico owner's manual, which is the equivalent of a service manual, and then some. It conveniently lists all the components and their values in the amp.

I decided to use a dimbulb tester, per the Antique Radio (Phil's Old Radios) site. It's a very simple circuit. The only difficult part is overcoming the awe of working with voltage out of the wall socket.

The Antique Radio site tells you how to use the dimbulb test to test the power transformer, then the power supply and associated capacitors. It worked out well for me. However, the site implies that the easiest test to pass is the lowest wattage light bulb; I got a 15 W bulb and it lit up bright as you please. And, it indicated...basically no problem with the amp at all. With high power hi-fi amps, idling current is enough to light up a low-wattage bulb.

So, you need to start with a high enough wattage bulb, else you get a false positive. The "So you want repair audio gear, eh?" topic in the DIY forum has guidelines.

It is not a straightforward test; I don't think my amp, with all the tubes in, ever worked with a bulb going really dim. But I got sick of seeing the thing sitting there and plugged it in, anyway. It played music just fine, at least from a CD player.

A phono source was horrendous, making a vicious low-frequency wail; "hum" doesn't do it justice. That was solved by replacing the input RCA jacks. I just used Radio Shack ones. They may have had a big wad of plastic on them, but it was easy to remove. By drilling a couple holes, I could mount the new jacks. With the new jacks, now the phono section behaved itself.

The ST-70, anyway, has quirks, don't know about the ST40. The on-off switch doubles as one channel's treble control. So, you turn the amp on and rotate the knob just enough to click on, then wonder why one channel is not producing. Oops, give it a little treble. Eico did not label their channels left or right but 1 (left) and 2(right). Looking at the amp from the front, speaker connections for channel 1 are on the right vs. channel 2, so you have to cross speaker wires. The connections for speakers are strange, all to accomdate some fancy level and phasing switches, and a center channel speaker. I found that phasing was correct with the "reverse" setting. And the volume control has a strange taper; turn it up just a little and the amp roars. Initially I thought this amp could rattle walls, but turning it up further didn't result in much more volume. Maybe they used a linear taper?

But you love the thing for its quirks, just like a family member, significant other, or pet.
 
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One good vintage 7591 is going to cost about $50, whereas a quad of matched new replacements will run you about $30 more. Chances are the remaining 3 are worn out to some degree. Seems like a simple decision to me, and the matched new tubes are going to sound better.

Yes a good new 7591 can be expensive, but the other three may be usable. If the OP can get a single 7591 he can test if the amp is working first.

Why would a matched set of new tubes sound better? (Genuine question.) I have another 7591 amp with individual fixed bias controls and I really can't hear the difference between new and older tubes, as long I can bias them correctly.
 
No! It's uses electronic switching circuit at very high speed which you don't want, & for lightbulbs or motors it's okay.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=135101

You would have to get a heavy variable transformer based one 5A +. Bigger is better. Shoot for a 10A one. They can be found used for maybe $50 to close to $100 for new imported ones.

Use the light bulb in series in between it and the amp so you know if you have a short or bad cap(s)
 
Yes a good new 7591 can be expensive, but the other three may be usable. If the OP can get a single 7591 he can test if the amp is working first.

Why would a matched set of new tubes sound better? (Genuine question.) I have another 7591 amp with individual fixed bias controls and I really can't hear the difference between new and older tubes, as long I can bias them correctly.

Who knows how much life is left in any of those other power tubes?

BTW - I suggest JJ 7591's. I have tried the original Westinghouse tubes, the EH's, and the JJ's. The Westinghouse sounded the best, but the JJ's sound a lot better than the EH's and they sound a lot better. I also suggest using their GZ34 if the rectifier tube is blown. It's way better than the Chinese and Sovtek options, though if the original Mullard is working, that's you're best bet.
 
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