ELAC 50H

OK on the motor mounting. That's kind of what I thought but wasn't sure. It's just very loose to me. The grommets look good too.
 
Correct, the motor spins by hand, unplugged. Tonearm is locked down since I didn't want it flopping around while I turned it on it's side.

Just to confirm, the motor doesn't spin by itself when it's plugged in and the buttons are pushed or the tonearm is moved over the platter -- correct? Just want to make sure the motor is not spinning by itself when it has juice. If the motor spins by itself when plugged in and buttons are pushed or tonearm is over platter, that means motor run cap may be ok.
 
When I tested my capacitor a couple of years ago, I took photos of the underneath of the round black cover. Mine was a European model that had an extra 1 uf cap on top since in Europe they use 50Hz 220. I cut that extra 1UF cap loose so it would work properly for USA voltage 60Hz and then changed the pulley. 3UF is correct value for USA voltage. (In Europe they use 4UF in the Elacs). Here are the pictures. Yours should be the same under the black cover but just won't have the extra 1uf silver cap piggybacked on top of the 3uf cap.

IMG_0468.jpg

As shown in the picture below, once the black cover is off, you can easily desolder the 3 uf tan capacitor and check it with a meter.

IMG_0469.jpg
 
If I understand the OP correctly, the motor works, but the platter doesn't spin? If so that would indicate an idler wheel problem. Need to remove the platter for sure...

Sorry to be confusing. No, the motor doesn't turn when it has juice. I turned it by hand when it was unplugged. Platter spins freely when given a spin by hand, unplugged.
 
I think I'm going to have to get my friend to help with this one. My soldering iron skills aren't all that good and I'd end up with a mess with all those other wires nearby.
 
I think I'm going to have to get my friend to help with this one. My soldering iron skills aren't all that good and I'd end up with a mess with all those other wires nearby.

If the motor run cap is the issue, they are relatively inexpensive to source a new one. The Elacs are remarkably robust and will essentially run forever.
 
I was re-reading some of the posts here in this thread and got to thinking.
I would be able to hear the motor run, even if the platter weren't turning correct?
When I plugged it in and pushed the buttons it was completely dead, no sound at all.
 
I was re-reading some of the posts here in this thread and got to thinking.
I would be able to hear the motor run, even if the platter weren't turning correct?
When I plugged it in and pushed the buttons it was completely dead, no sound at all.

If motor is turning, with the platter off you will see the pulley shaft spin. Under the chassis you would also see the Paspt motor turning. The Papst makes a soft whirring noise.
 
Take it step by step from easiest to more difficult. First step is to make sure outlet works. Next pull off the platter. You should see a rubber roller (idler roller) and a brass stepped "pulley" in close proximity to the idler roller. The brass pulley is connected to the motor drive shaft. Next with one finger lightly on the brass pulley and the machine plugged in, take the tonearm and move it by hand as if you were going to put it on a record. The motor should turn on when the tonearm is moved over the record. Does this happen?
 
Or it could be the switch. Electric motors rarely fail. A DMM is your friend
It was probably put away when this first happened decades ago, and now it's finally getting looked at....
 
Sorry, got side tracked by a neighbor wanting some help to hang a tarp up in his backyard.

My first problem is the platter. It isn't lifting off and I've used what I consider adequate 'pull' for that to have happened.

I'm gonna assume that a DMM is a digital multi meter, correct?
Got one of them.
 
My first problem is the platter. It isn't lifting off and I've used what I consider adequate 'pull' for that to have happened.

Here's a thread on how to remove the platter of a 50H. http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/benjamin-miracord-elac-50h-advice.600904/

Once you get the platter off, plug the turntable into a known good power outlet. Disengage the tonearm lockdown. If the tonearm manually moved over platter area, does pulley on the motor shaft spin? Does the rotor of motor spin under the chassis? The Papst will displace air like a fan as it spins. Do you hear a click when tonearm is moved indicating the switch is activating when the tonearm is moved manually from rest over the platter?
 
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aaahhhh, just as I thought, I do need to remove that 'C' clip from the center. This should be fun....

Before you do that, read this post from that thread:

I rebuild Miracords for fun and profit. The only reason to remove the C-clip is to get to the platter bearing. The platter is held in place by friction and gravity only. Put a thumb and finger in the holes provided and lift while putting come pressure on the center with your other thumb. A slight rocking motion helps. Be sure to move the idler wheel out of the way when you replace the platter.
 
FYI the only time I had to remove the C clip on my 10H was when I needed to take apart the bearing. If the 50H is like the 10H, you won't need to remove the C clip to take off the platter.
 
Great job! I put a red box around the pulley in your picture below. Plug it in and move the tonearm towards the center. Listen for a click that indicates a switch is tripped. Does the pulley (and thus motor) spin? Report back....

IMG_0497.jpg
 
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