Elac Miracord wiring help needed

Stevel

Member
I am retrofitting an Elac Miracord 10F tt (from a late 60's Fisher console) into a 1958 Fisher 610 consolette, replacing the original Garrard RC121.

The original TT has a 2-prong power cord that plugs into the amp. Can anybody tell me which 2 terminals on the Elac's connector (see pic), that I can use to attach a power cord? At the connector there is one to gnd, 2 from the switch, and one from that round black gizmo next to the motor.

Thank you!
 

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I looked at my Elac 40, but it's different than yours. There is no molded connector, and there are two wires that connect the wall plug to that black disc on the upper right (in your photo). Have you tried looking up the service manual at VinylEngine? You'll have to sign up for a free membership but it's pretty amazing.
 
Which console did it come out of? The Service manual for the console will have the wiring diagram for the turntable in the schematic. www.fisherconsoles.com. Then look up the particular console.
 
I'm pretty sure that ELAC can be made to run the auto-off functions, just like the original GArrard turntable.
 
Pick any Fisher console that used the 10F. The power wiring should be the same on all of them.
 
Well I found the following diagram. It may be correct. How is it looking for the 2-prong power cord? Pins 2 and 4 on female tt connector?
 

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Yes 2 & 4 wil work. You're basically setting it up as a standalone. if you incorporated lead 3 (which is the switch return to the system) it could be used to switch the whole system on and off. Unfortunately the 610 isn't wired up like that. So 2&4 on the plug with #1 as an outobard ground is correct. I had to go and look at my 65' Custom Electra with a 10F on it.

Larry
 
Thank you for using your Custom Electra for reference, Larry. I will get the bugger wired up. I suppose I will keep the Pickering magnetic cart that is in the Elac, and use a phono preamp (will have to figure out a good, reasonably price one... suggestions?).

Steve
 
What's wrong with the 121? IIRC the tonearm on that can be set down to 3gr. And it has 1/2" mount so you can use that pickering magnetic in it, and just add a preamp.
 
What's wrong with the 121? IIRC the tonearm on that can be set down to 3gr. And it has 1/2" mount so you can use that pickering magnetic in it, and just add a preamp.
Yes, that would have worked, but since the Garrard was in such bad condition (I will restore it when I get a chance), and since I was looking for a use for my mint condition Elac, this looked like a good opportunity.
Since the Elac has a larger footprint, I had to make a new plinth to get the tt as far to the left as possible, and had to do a bit of surgery on the back of the tonearm so it could swivel w/o hitting the side of the cabinet (I was already committed, so went for it).

I will have the amp restored soon, purchase a preamp (yes, Gary at VM will probably have one), and button things up.

Thanks again,
Steve
 

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It's been just shy of 5 years since someone contributed to this thread. I too have a Miracord 10F recovered from a Fisher console. Mine was a Futura VI Model F590. My question is almost the same-but I want to make mine a stand-alone TT. It has a couple of RCA plugs I could plug into phono-in jacks, so all (ha) I need is a power supply to plug into the same plug that SteveL shows clearly in miracord2.jpg. The funny thing is my wires are colored opposite of his, yet they go the exact same places in the plug order. That is the colors are precisely opposite. Check it out, what's red on his is blue on mine, and my picture shows where the 2nd blue (his 2nd red) terminates.

My electrical competence is minimal. I looked at the service manual and couldn't even find where the turntable connector was, let alone decypher what each of the four pins should get.

I saw this turnable run at all speeds and do full auto at all three speeds and all three record sizes. I'm pretty sure I still have all the accessories including the 45pm changer.spindle I just can't figure out how to power it up.

Can anyone point me to instructions for the uninitiated?

Brian
 

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See Post #9 and the diagram on post 6. On the connector on one end there are 2-3 nubs for ID. That is Pin 4. Pins 2 and 4 will allow the power to go thru the power switch and you're good to go.
 
See Post #9 and the diagram on post 6. On the connector on one end there are 2-3 nubs for ID. That is Pin 4. Pins 2 and 4 will allow the power to go thru the power switch and you're good to go.

Thank you Larry! You were perfectly clear explaining it the first time (I see now). I guess I just needed the extra stuff cleared away. And thanks for having patience answering an Elac turntable question in a Fisher thread.

The pin 1 outboard ground you mentioned in post 9- That's just the single wire that goes to the receiver's ground screw?

Thanks again!
Brian
 
Correct. Connect an Extension cord with the female end cut off, to pins 2 & 4 (if you don't have the matching molex connector, use a terminal strip (preferrably one of the screw type) to mate the wires together. And figure out a strain relief for the cord.
 
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Once I had the idea right in my head, I started looking through my collection of broken turntables for a suitable enclosure and guess what -- all my turntables from the 70's have the exact same connector wired up exactly the same way. In fact on 3 of the 4 I could have unplugged the molex and unscrewed the strain relief to free the wire. I pulled one out of a BSR and had the 10F spinning in minutes. The #1 ground pin goes to the green ground wire with the spade connector on the other end. In my case the ground wire created a hum so I left it disconnected at the receiver.
 
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