EngineerNate's Sony TTS-4000 Build

It's actually kind of funny. You can tell the strobe was designed to work with neons. The strobe marks could have been machined a lot bigger if they'd had LED strobes back then. The black space inbetween each strobe mark looks huge since they had to make each mark small to get a decent strobe picture out of the blurry LED flashing.
 
EngineerNate said:
The strobe marks could have been machined a lot bigger if they'd had LED strobes back then. The black space inbetween each strobe mark looks huge since they had to make each mark small to get a decent strobe picture out of the blurry LED flashing.
Click to expand...
Nate,
You can ask the manufacturer of your strobe with what frequency it works and whether is it possible to lower it by dividing by 2 or 4. As far as I know, the lower the flicker frequency, the smaller the black space, but the sharpness will be worse, i.e. something like from stock neon bulb light.
 
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Igor_SPb said:
Nate,
You can ask the manufacturer of your strobe with what frequency it works and whether is it possible to lower it by dividing by 2 or 4. As far as I know, the lower the flicker frequency, the smaller the black space, but the sharpness will be worse, i.e. something like from stock neon bulb light.
Click to expand...

The reason the strobe is so sharp is that the controller runs it at a 1/10th duty cycle. So each time it flashes it's only on for 1/10th of 1/120th of a second plus whatever tiny amount of time the LED stays on after the switch off has happened. It's purposefully programmed that was to make things as sharp as possible. I kinda like it the way o
It is. :)
 
Yesterday I made a stroboscope, the scheme of which is published on the vinylengine site. Nate, if it interested, I can post the result here.
 
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001 — копия.JPG View attachment 1426980
Ok :)
Sharpness is very good (top line of marks), the duty cycle is 1/8. In the window of the original strobe are visible marks (bottom line) from the neon bulb, both platters is the same.
Drawing on the board was applied using a printer, glossy paper, an electric iron and galvanic etching with citric acid from a grocery store. At the time of testing, the color of the LED, I have not yet picked up, and took that I already had. The capacitors that are to be installed affect the frequency of the quartz, for this reason I installed very stable C0G/NP0.
 
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MRL_Audio said:
You guys are amazing. This is such a great read. Thanks for the trip. How's the plinth coming?
Click to expand...

Aw, shucks.

Plinth build is split off in the thread below if you haven't seen it:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/sony-tts-4000-plinth-build.827126/

Shameless resharing of my favorite video of the table+plinth in action:


I've been using the table+plinth in the unfinished state for months now. I originally wanted to work out any kinks and design tweaks before finishing to prevent redoing things, but really my apartment isn't so great for finish work and the cold months snuck up on me before I could get a good weekend or two in to do it outside. Fortunately, we're buying a house with a walk out basement I'll be converting into my listening space + project shop so by April or so I'll have the space to actually get this thing finished.

The TT-101 I picked up is waiting for the same space, I wanted to give it the time and care it deserves without the rush or space constraints of my improvised kitchen workshop. It's going to be an exciting year. :)
 
Nate,
I did an experiment with preheating, which is made up of two (I found only two in my home) cheap 5W resistors and 12V external power supply. The result is very good and it can solve the problem completely. Now I will buy 25 pieces 5W resistors and assemble a simple circuit to control the temperature.
But I am still working on a variant with the use of quartz for the reference frequency and now I have an understanding of how this can be arranged with a very slight modification of the original circuit.
 
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EngineerNate said:
Aw, shucks.

Plinth build is split off in the thread below if you haven't seen it:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/sony-tts-4000-plinth-build.827126/

Shameless resharing of my favorite video of the table+plinth in action:


I've been using the table+plinth in the unfinished state for months now. I originally wanted to work out any kinks and design tweaks before finishing to prevent redoing things, but really my apartment isn't so great for finish work and the cold months snuck up on me before I could get a good weekend or two in to do it outside. Fortunately, we're buying a house with a walk out basement I'll be converting into my listening space + project shop so by April or so I'll have the space to actually get this thing finished.

The TT-101 I picked up is waiting for the same space, I wanted to give it the time and care it deserves without the rush or space constraints of my improvised kitchen workshop. It's going to be an exciting year. :)
Click to expand...

Saw a similar bangin' excercise from 4-2-7. Good stuff. :)
 
He's on to me!:rflmao:

The real story is that I was afraid to knock something over so I kept my hands clapped to my sides. Wasn't until afterwards that I realized how goofy it looked, and at that point I didn't want to go through the bother if refilming. :D

The funny thing is that my new listening space is in the basement of a brick home. The floor isn't going to transmit *any* vibration to the table.

Igor, good to know, that's a cool idea with the heaters. That's how some tight tolerance zeners actually work, they're in a tiny little oven that's temperature controlled. I'll be interested to see your quartz mod. At first glance I'm not seeing how it would work.

Cheers,
Nathan
 
Yes, ish. The ovenized zeners are usually used in laboratory equipment where getting that last degree of stability is important. The ovenized versions are also less sensitive to ambient temperature changes and the effects of heat from neighboring components.

For our purposes it's about minimizing the importance of the warm up period on the stability of the table. I normally lean towards quartz lock tables because seeing things drift after 15 minutes of runtime has always bugged me. This table has enough cool factor to get over it though and my modifications got it into it "pretty damn stable" territory.
 
I wouldn't worry overmuch about a stability lag if it settles fairly quickly and stays put.
 
A quartz pll TT drive strobe is going to indicate lock stability with the assumption that the quartz time base oscillator is spot-on frequency.
This is not that, the zener is the reference for speed stability with the quartz based strobe as a parity check.
 
Yeah if the quartz drifts in a quartz table you'll never know. It'll happily lie to you. :D

I've not seen any data to suggest that the quartz oscillators drift significantly, but it's definitely something that's physically possible.
 
We assume they don't, and I suppose, we are usually right. Otoh, how many of us readily hear a pitch wow from an off center pressing? CDs should have made them relatively obvious.
 
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