Epi M201, Really, Really Nice

The 20s and the 20+s had a full L/C crossover where the 201s had only a 10 mic cap as all of the original line did. There was no choke in the 201s or any of the original line. I once asked Winslow about adding a choke to the 201s. In typical fashion he kind of shrugged.....'you can try it.'

With regard to the impedance switch, no, there is not an 8 ohm position in the middle. There are two 8 ohm modules in these speakers. All you're doing is changing the internal wiring from parallel to series. Hence, the 4 or 16 ohms.
 
I had both at the same time. As similar as they are, they did not sound the same, and I definitely preferred the 201 over the 20+, in sound and looks.
 
LOL Perhaps you're right... I guess I was thinking about Luv who owns, I don't know how, many pairs of Epi/Epicure speakers...lol
I have had many pairs pass through my hands. I own my original M50s, bought new, still in use, in the LR, one pair each of M100s and EPI150s. Both of those are in the magic closet. Every other pair that has visited my bench, has made their way to the homes of friends and family, as part of a complete system. Of literally dozens of systems I have placed on permanent loan, all but one have had appropriate Epicure/EPI speakers, from 50s up to original Epicure 400s. My niece has the only non-EPI system I have sent out. A merrylander CR-820 and a pair of Mirage M-460s, with a Sansui SR-929, and a Cambridge Audio azur 640 v.2 cdp. It's pretty good, too.

Oh, and I have an early pair of Human QT-1+, Huw's take on the M50. The aluminum inverted dome has been called 'the audiophile version of the M50'. Words like 'sparkle, air, and shimmer' get used to describe the sound. They didn't lose any of the EPI magic, just picked up some HF extension. I'm saving them for when my hearing starts to go.

The M1000s our band used, a lifetime ago, have long since disappeared, when the band split up. Should'a kept 'em.
 
CAM is Canuck Audio Mart, or US Audio Mart in the States. You might want to use Hifishark though it does NOT scan Craigslist. I too am on the hunt for various Epi / Epicure models as well however in rural Canada, they are like hens teeth. There is a 201 cabinet on now and one can get all the bits from the used if you wish a restoration project? I'm sure people like Sae will assist whenever necessary, since he's built these things from scratch....;-)

I use HiFiShark too. Plus, SearchTempest, since it does search CraigsList. Both a good way to get into trouble. :)
 
I built the C2 that Huw showed, with masonite tweeter, and two of the 6" drivers. Sweet midrange, and it did the job, since I didn't want too much LF info from the centre.

I just visited Huw's site, and I have to correct the above post. Not QT-1+ speakers. They were the early 61's, in Oak veneer. I haven't found a limit to their power handling. My ears yell, "UNCLE!" long before I get there. They don't break up, they just get louder.

61-lg.jpg
 
I had a pair that was gifted to me. If you guys remember I had no idea what they were either did the guy who gave them to me. He said they were an Ohm Brand model and was of course he was wrong as some of you here told me. Done in the style of the Bose 601 and Ohm I speaker w/ both a front and top firing woofer and w/ the inverted Burhoe top and front tweeter. The walnut sides were both beautiful and very heavy. The only reason I had to trade mine was because they were to big and got Ohm L in there place.IMG_4318[1].jpg
 
Those are very cool. Any ideas on how they are different/similar to the Epicure 20 models? Just curious, thanks!
A

I had a battered pair of 20 cabs, replaced all the drivers, and then ended up buying some201 cabs from that auction site. I got the crossover from Huw, and noticed no difference.

I had both at the same time. As similar as they are, they did not sound the same, and I definitely preferred the 201 over the 20+, in sound and looks.

Perhaps because of the above situation, I heard no difference in either. I still have the old crossover to the 20's. Extraordinarily simple.

Can't go wrong with either, is my take.
 
There is a pair of 201’s close to me. I already have a pair of 20+ that I love although not with original woofers but good substitutes and they sound great. But I’m still interested in these. Can somebody confirm if these are the original drivers? Im concerned about the tweeters on one of the speakers that doesn’t have the “epi” on it. I assume that’s not original? What about the woofers?


95486458-7660-4-A3-C-BAEA-97381766-B1-B2.jpg


FD1-B9-EA5-E802-4889-B714-86-BCA1200023.jpg


476-FC997-6888-4-CD6-833-C-90-FE68-A2-A567.jpg
 
There is a pair of 201’s close to me. I already have a pair of 20+ that I love although not with original woofers but good substitutes and they sound great. But I’m still interested in these. Can somebody confirm if these are the original drivers? Im concerned about the tweeters on one of the speakers that doesn’t have the “epi” on it. I assume that’s not original? What about the woofers?


95486458-7660-4-A3-C-BAEA-97381766-B1-B2.jpg


FD1-B9-EA5-E802-4889-B714-86-BCA1200023.jpg


476-FC997-6888-4-CD6-833-C-90-FE68-A2-A567.jpg



All drivers in your photos are EPI
 
I concur, all drivers look original.

I'm curious how you think they compare to your 20+. I used to have both. Even though the designs are nearly identical, I thought the 201's sounded better than the 20+'s.
 
I concur, all drivers look original.

I'm curious how you think they compare to your 20+. I used to have both. Even though the designs are nearly identical, I thought the 201's sounded better than the 20+'s.

Thanks. I don’t own the 201’s. I wanted to make sure the drivers were original first since my 20+ dont have original woofers, but high quality Gefco replacements that sound great. I’m hoping I’ll get a response from the seller today and see if we can work something out.
 
There is a pair of 201’s close to me. I already have a pair of 20+ that I love although not with original woofers but good substitutes and they sound great. But I’m still interested in these. Can somebody confirm if these are the original drivers? Im concerned about the tweeters on one of the speakers that doesn’t have the “epi” on it. I assume that’s not original? What about the woofers?


95486458-7660-4-A3-C-BAEA-97381766-B1-B2.jpg


FD1-B9-EA5-E802-4889-B714-86-BCA1200023.jpg


476-FC997-6888-4-CD6-833-C-90-FE68-A2-A567.jpg

Please be aware that those woofers look like they were refoamed with generic surrounds. The surrounds should be the Boston-style, not with flat flanges. The inside flange should have a smooth contour from the roll to the cone. You may want to use that as a bargaining chip.
 
Please be aware that those woofers look like they were refoamed with generic surrounds. The surrounds should be the Boston-style, not with flat flanges. The inside flange should have a smooth contour from the roll to the cone. You may want to use that as a bargaining chip.

Would that affect sound much?
 
Would that affect sound much?

Depends on where you fall on the spectrum. Do you recap with electrolytics, inexpensive Dayton caps, or expensive caps? Do you use 16 ga zip cord or do your speaker cables cost as much as my car?

I fall in the area of "let's do it right." The surrounds impact the driver's T-S parameters. That will impact the sound. Will the change in T-S parameters between incorrect and correct surrounds be audible? In my system, with my ears, with the music I play, and with the sound levels I play, I believe so.
 
Depends on where you fall on the spectrum. Do you recap with electrolytics, inexpensive Dayton caps, or expensive caps? Do you use 16 ga zip cord or do your speaker cables cost as much as my car?

I fall in the area of "let's do it right." The surrounds impact the driver's T-S parameters. That will impact the sound. Will the change in T-S parameters between incorrect and correct surrounds be audible? In my system, with my ears, with the music I play, and with the sound levels I play, I believe so.

Well, I would prefer if they were done right also, but I also use 18ga speaker wire and cheap IC's because no, I can't tell the difference. As I've indicated, I love the way my 20+'s sound even though they don't have the original woofers, or the stamp of approval Human replacements. How much of a difference either would make ultimately to my enjoyment of them will always be a mystery because I don't plan on doing anything to them. I'm also not an avid recapper when it comes to speakers, although I certainly am willing to put more money into them if that has been done.

As far as the 202's, buying them doesn't make a lot of sense for me anyways. I have AR3's and Allison One's which I'm using in my main room, and the 20+'s in my secondary system. The only reason I'm interested at all is because they are nearby, they are seemingly rare, the price doesn't seem to bad, and some have said that they sound better then the 20+.

The seller is traveling at the moment so it will probably not be until next week that I'll be able to move forward on these, but I'm and we'll see if I can get the price down a little with what you've told me. I'm inclined to get them anyway, given their condition and my enjoyment of the 20+'s, and perhaps replacing the surrounds is something that I might consider doing going forward.
 
Well, I would prefer if they were done right also, but I also use 18ga speaker wire and cheap IC's because no, I can't tell the difference. As I've indicated, I love the way my 20+'s sound even though they don't have the original woofers, or the stamp of approval Human replacements. How much of a difference either would make ultimately to my enjoyment of them will always be a mystery because I don't plan on doing anything to them. I'm also not an avid recapper when it comes to speakers, although I certainly am willing to put more money into them if that has been done.

As far as the 202's, buying them doesn't make a lot of sense for me anyways. I have AR3's and Allison One's which I'm using in my main room, and the 20+'s in my secondary system. The only reason I'm interested at all is because they are nearby, they are seemingly rare, the price doesn't seem to bad, and some have said that they sound better then the 20+.

The seller is traveling at the moment so it will probably not be until next week that I'll be able to move forward on these, but I'm and we'll see if I can get the price down a little with what you've told me. I'm inclined to get them anyway, given their condition and my enjoyment of the 20+'s, and perhaps replacing the surrounds is something that I might consider doing going forward.

It will be interesting to hear your impressions on how the 201s compare to your 20+. My 20+ sound really good. It is amazing how well they handle the lower octaves.
You may want to move the woofers from the 201s into the 20+ so you get all the goodness of the Burhoe Modules. :banana::banana::banana:
 
It will be interesting to hear your impressions on how the 201s compare to your 20+. My 20+ sound really good. It is amazing how well they handle the lower octaves.
You may want to move the woofers from the 201s into the 20+ so you get all the goodness of the Burhoe Modules. :banana::banana::banana:

IF I get the 201's, why would I want to move the woofers? Won't they provide all the goodness in their own cabinets?
 
IF I get the 201's, why would I want to move the woofers? Won't they provide all the goodness in their own cabinets?

The 201 were the first generation and the 20+ came later. I consider the changes were made as an improvement. Also, the 20+ has a heavier and slightly larger cabinet, which generally helps the bass. Although, the Human Speakers pages say the 201 has more bass extension. That is why it would be nice to do a head-to-head comparison. You are in a good place. You get to pick the best of the two and then make sure the one you keep is as good as the original by using the original drivers.

https://www.humanspeakers.com/e/epi201.htm
https://www.humanspeakers.com/e/epicure-20.htm
 
Back
Top Bottom