EV Georgian crossover question

Discussion in 'Speakers' started by gtojon, Oct 3, 2017.

  1. gtojon

    gtojon New Member

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    Hi-
    Any EV fans know the difference between the X325 and X336 crossovers used in vintage Georgian speakers? Are they interchangeable?
     
  2. gtojon

    gtojon New Member

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    Location:
    Northern IL
    Anybody know the difference on the EV X325 vs. the X336? Are they interchangeable?
     
  3. toxcrusadr

    toxcrusadr AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Seems like there would be some pics or schematics out there somewhere (or here!). Have you searched the web and AK?
     
  4. toxcrusadr

    toxcrusadr AK Subscriber Subscriber

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  5. gtojon

    gtojon New Member

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    Thanks, checking the thread now. I'm trying to keep the original look of the speakers with orig crossovers...my father built these, first 1 mono, then when stereo came out a 2nd build
    Note that 1 speaker has X336 (first speaker built) and the other has a X325 with a X36 tied in. Wondering why this configuration was used. Any ideas? IMG_0135.PNG IMG_0136.PNG
     
  6. toxcrusadr

    toxcrusadr AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I don't have much of a clue as I'm not an EV expert, but I'm kind of surprised no one has popped in here to explain it all.

    Any luck finding a schematic for the X36? It looks similar to the 336 whereas the 325 looks much larger. Could be just an artifact of the pics. I can look at schematics and give some idea what the thing is doing but not based on any intimate knowledge of EV components. If this were Altec it would have already been fully detailed.

    Come on EV fans, put on your thinking caps!
     
  7. gdmoore28

    gdmoore28 Super Member

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  8. gtojon

    gtojon New Member

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    Thanks for pumping this up! I appreciate your enthusiasm. The 336 and 325 are the same size dimensionally. The 36 is smaller. From what I see the connections are the same on the 336 and 325. But what's the difference. I'm not an electrical engineer that's for sure...
     
  9. gtojon

    gtojon New Member

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  10. sheltie dave

    sheltie dave Addicted Member

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    If I recall, the 325/36 was a kit add on, with the 36 added when you purchased the T35 tweeter.

    The 336 was for the wealthy, who had the money to buy all the drivers at one time. These speakers were at the dawn of wide range recording and albums, so some folks did not feel the need to buy tweeters early on.
     
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  11. toxcrusadr

    toxcrusadr AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I suspected it was something like that.

    So basically the two are equivalent, just that one is in two pieces and the other is all in one can.
     
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  12. gdmoore28

    gdmoore28 Super Member

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    I think we tend to forget just what a large investment these old speakers represented to their 1950s/60s owners. Buying a complete Georgian or Klipschorn or JBL system was simply out of the realm of the common guy. I feel blessed to be able to play with them now - fifty years after their time!

    GeeDeeEmm
     
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  13. gtojon

    gtojon New Member

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    Thank you all for taking the time to respond to this thread!
    The Georgian with the 336 sounds muted, quieter, has less crisp sound/bass than the other one. This has been a gradual issue. Am I assuming correctly that the 336 crossover is going bad?
    IMG_0208.JPG IMG_0209.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

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  14. gdmoore28

    gdmoore28 Super Member

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    I'm assuming that the 325/36 crossovers likely represented their crossover points (325Hz and 3.6Khz. These were quite common crossover points at that time). If you wanted to dispense with rebuilding/replacing the current crossovers, you could go with a very reasonably-priced OTc crossover such as the the Eminence
    over BoardPXB3:3K5 3-Way Speaker Cross
    I can't remember if your components are 8 or 16, but these will perform extraordinarily in 8 ohm versions with much better build quality than the original EV crossover.

    GeeDeeEmm
     
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  15. toxcrusadr

    toxcrusadr AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Probably the cap in series with the tweeter has drifted way off and/or developed high resistance (ESR) cutting the treble output.
     
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  16. gtojon

    gtojon New Member

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    Thanks, I really want to keep the original components, or replace them with the same. Though I may find that impossible. They are 16 ohm...
     
  17. macyjrm

    macyjrm AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    One more thing you might try--are the "brilliance and presence" controls working properly? Have you spun them across their entire range of motion several times to ensure good contact?

    I like what you did with those bass bin cabinets. It appears they have been cleaned up a bit and painted black with new risers attached. Would love to hear the back story on how you acquired these and if there were outer cabinets on them.

    Lastly, I'm sure you know these are corner horns. To get the best performance they both need to be shoved into corners. You may need to build a false wall for the speaker on the right.
     
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  18. gtojon

    gtojon New Member

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    19
    Location:
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    Well, trying the 2 "B&P" knobs, I am finding them only allowing sound in a few positions on the dials. I had sprayed some De-Oxit in them a while ago, but was kinda hesitant to really put a lot in each housing...are the symptoms a product of this??
    These speakers were built by my Father, in two different periods. From what I understand one initially, then the 2nd when stereo came about, roughly mid 1960's. The speaker with 2 crossovers was the 2nd built. The older unit with 1 crossover (x336) is the speaker that is sounding poor. These were EV kits, not the EV factory built units.
    These were never in any outer cabinets, painted black when built, with me giving the cabs a fresh coat 2 years ago.
    And yes I understand that they should both be in corners, maybe soon!
    I appreciate your interest in my speakers, and issue!
     
  19. gdmoore28

    gdmoore28 Super Member

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    Location:
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    Just out of curiosity, have you placed your ear next to the horns to make sure they are functioning at all? If they are, these guys have you on the right track - either/or the caps drifting/controls/maybe even corroded wire connections (happens all too often on old speakers! Every connection, even if it looks good, should be suspect.)
    GeeDeeEmm
     
  20. macyjrm

    macyjrm AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    It's possible the B&P control is sufficiently corroded internally to be attenuating the incoming signal. If the control is only passing a signal at certain points along its path of travel, I would sort that out first before attacking the crossovers. I have not taken an EV control apart so cannot describe the process. They are similar to the controls used in vintage AR speakers. There are numerous threads here in AK devoted to refurbishing AR controls. I hope this points you in the right direction.
     
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