Everything you wanted to know about the FISHER POWER SWITCH,,,,,,

larryderouin

I'm VERTICAL and Breathing...most of the time.
Subscriber
But were afraid to ask!!!!!!

This is the switch that everyone is clamoring for when their's goes bad. Now that you know more than you did a minute or two ago, you'll be able to at least ID the switch, and if you are lucky enough to get an NOS switch, in the box, your wallet is screaming it throat has been cut! And you'll know what to ask Mark Oppat or other shops for the specific switch. I'll link this thread in the COMMON PARTS THREAD.


CENTRALAB
KR-2
DPST-3A @ 125VAC

Assembled in Haiti
Centralab
Electronics Division
Globe-Union Inc

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Great info Larry! But be aware that Fisher used two different types of switches. They were both electrically identical, but mounted differently. The kind you are showing is the kind that slips over the back of the control and snaps into place. But there is also the type where the switch (as you have shown) does not have the sleeve portion that slips over the back of the control; instead, it simply is the switch portion with three mount tabs that protrude into three holes on the back side of the control's rear cover. Therefore, to mount this type of switch, the control's rear cover needs to be removed from the control, the switch installed onto the rear cover, and then the rear cover of the control with switch reinstalled onto the control.

This is why Mark always wants a picture of any Fisher control you might be changing the power switch on. It's a 50/50 bet as two which type of switch/control is installed in a given unit. As far as I can tell, it has nothing to do with early version/late version, model, or time period. Rather, it seems to be what the vendor supplied at any given time based on their production inventory.

Dave
 
Lots of good switch info here! The only snap on I've found is just like Larry's, but I've found several versions of the "3 tab" mount, which Dave mentions. It depended on the control brand that Fisher used.
Besides the snap on Centralab KR-2 (CRL20) Larry shows, there is the Clarostat 20 (even found a 10 on one very early model which may have been a replacement) and CTS type WF as well.

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Hi all...
The Clarostat 20 is a DPST which will work if slightly modified and SOLDERED onto the original control body. The Clarostat 10, 12, etc are only SPST or SPDT. Fisher used the DPST so they could "gang" the two switch sections to get a larger "turn-on surge" capability. The Centralab type KR-2 has essentially disappeared., but I have enough of the Clarostats to keep going for now. I also make the whole control if needed, and can do that for many vintage controls up to about 1970... after that, most controls get proprietary and I cant make them (especially Japanese or Euro makes).
But, I enjoy the challenges usually. Been specializing in controls for 15 years now.
Mark Oppat
Plymouth, MI
 
Welcome to the Forums Mark. Thanks for adding that info to the mix. It definately helps.
 
I came across some KR1 that are SPDT and used one in one of my 500C's and never have had any issues
 
Fisher used one pole for the receive, one for the switched outlet. Even then they had a high failure rate and Fisher issued a bulletin which connected the two switch sections in parallel. (I don't know if this was ever a factory wiring). Install an inrush limiter in series with the fuse to limit transformer inrush - CL-70 is what I used (though it was too late for my 800C...)
 
I have this very ugly and corroded X-202 I picked up some time ago, hoping to get the face replated and silk screened. Well, one item I found to be bad inside happens to be the power switch. This one has the three prongs and is not like the other type I have replaced before. Hoping someone might have a spare or Mark can make me a replacement.

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I have this very ugly and corroded X-202 I picked up some time ago, hoping to get the face replated and silk screened. Well, one item I found to be bad inside happens to be the power switch. This one has the three prongs and is not like the other type I have replaced before. Hoping someone might have a spare or Mark can make me a replacement.

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YES I have this version of FIsher switch as well. This is the "OEM" version. They are usually DPST type. email me at moppat at comcast dot net and I will get you fixed up!
Mark Oppat
"The King of Controls"
Plymouth, Mi
 
YES I have this version of FIsher switch as well. This is the "OEM" version. They are usually DPST type. email me at moppat at comcast dot net and I will get you fixed up!
Mark Oppat
"The King of Controls"
Plymouth, Mi
Sent you an email Mark, thanks!
 
YES I have this version of FIsher switch as well. This is the "OEM" version. They are usually DPST type. email me at moppat at comcast dot net and I will get you fixed up!
Mark Oppat
"The King of Controls"
Plymouth, Mi
Is this common for the X-202-B or do they also use the KR-1 and KR-2? I am a new owner of one and am attempting to get my head around common issues.
 
From my side no more concerns in this demoniac switch with the mod I did 2 and a half years ago.
Hello to everybody. FYI almost ten years or trouble free operation in my 400 in the power switch with the modification made and explained in the upper post. Regards
 
I have just ordered this switch from an eBay vendor (https://www.ebay.com/itm/165635787822) and instead of four contact points for the power switch it has two. Can anyone guide me towards rewiring mine to make this work? I have attached a pic of my current wiring. Thanks in advance, Mark
 

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I have just ordered this switch from an eBay vendor (https://www.ebay.com/itm/165635787822) and instead of four contact points for the power switch it has two. Can anyone guide me towards rewiring mine to make this work? I have attached a pic of my current wiring. Thanks in advance, Mark
Good luck with that vendor, many here have posted bad experiences with that guy. I have tried that switch, the notch for the orientation of the knob is wrong which requires clocking the pot differently requiring having to lengthen wires.
 
Oh great... Any advice on how I should wire it up? I had a 4 post switch originally, and this is a 2 post.
The power in goes to one leg along with the unswitched outlet, the switched outlet and power transformer go to the other I believe.
 
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