Favorite rectifier tubes for the MC30?

Holy smoke! That, sir, is one truly amazing HT setup. Well done!

Back to your preference for a SS rectifier mod. Does it compensate in part for the hearing loss those of us with some grey around the muzzle have acquired? I read what you stated about expanded dynamics. With a vintage tube amp not especially known for having that character, please explain again why you do it, and how you have implemented it. And why not just use an amp designed for having explosive dynamic range rather than an MC30 (although I now clearly see your appreciation for McIntosh gear).

Best regards,

Mike
Thanks for the compliment on the HT system mike_p.. There are more equipment in other pictures that are part of it as well.

I`m up there in age(63 this Dec.) too Sir. SS rectification, or the conversion of a tube rectified tube amp has nothing to do with hearing loss.. Only the improved clarity in the natural and real dynamic range of the higher capabilities available today from "quality" digital music offerings that lower voltage dropping SS rectification can offer while still providing tube warmth to the sound..
My MC 30`s are not used at all in my HT setup. They are only used with my Sunroom system and can be totally tube(less the 2 400 watt Velodyne 15" sub woofers) feeding a pair of DQ 10`s which are very good sounding but a little bottom bass shy.)

The 4 MC 275`s are mono`d each and only drive the tweeters and mid range of the Mac XRT 30`s for good smooth tubeyness above 80 hz. With 2 MC 1200 taking care of the bass.. The Mac MC 2205 sits on top of them, but it is only part of the Sunrooms SS system.. Ran out of room in the living room for the big guys(MC 1201`s), so they ended up in the sunroom.. Regards, OKBDSCN0010.JPG
 
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It seems appropriate to mention here that neither of my modest tube rectified amps (the MC30 and the Audio by Van Alstine Ultravalve) seem to have any difficulty reproducing realistic dynamic swings. That includes music with dramatic, wildly exuberant content like tunes from the band Snarky Puppy. I attribute that largely to the Belle Klipsch horn speakers. I do have to crank it up a bit to get that sense of experiencing a live performance.
 
It seems appropriate to mention here that neither of my modest tube rectified amps (the MC30 and the Audio by Van Alstine Ultravalve) seem to have any difficulty reproducing realistic dynamic swings. That includes music with dramatic, wildly exuberant content like tunes from the band Snarky Puppy. I attribute that largely to the Belle Klipsch horn speakers. I do have to crank it up a bit to get that sense of experiencing a live performance.

OK mike_p, I hear you.
But remember tube rectifiers can and often do experience as much as a 50 volt drop/loss across them when the amp their providing HT for is asked to deliver a brief high level dynamic note/sound(think kettle, kick drum, ect.) played from a high quality low or no compressed CD/Pure audio BR/DVD..

Now, some will say the filter cap right after the tube rectifier will/should carry the nominal B+ during those demands, and that can and does happen to "some" extent.
But enough capacitance to properly mitigate is usually limited by the tube rectifier`s maximum allowed capacitance and seems from what I `ve read on AK`s site the modern replacements are even more sensitive to proper rated max cap values and are prone to failure.

And then there is the concern of listening to your tube rectified tube amp, and for unknown reasons the mains blip off & then come back on, and that usually stress` or kill`s the tube rectifier.. Whereas that is of no concern when the amp is properly SS rectified..

The SS conversion when done correctly it can be undone with minimal effort with no damage & no "pecker tracks" evident other than fresh solder at the rect. socket`s connections, should it ever wished to be reversed.
Now days it`s so much easier then it was in 1977( when I did my MC 30`s) to readily convert/ or try out for technical/sonic evaluation.
So back then to test one had to hardwire(solder) in the SS rectifiers.

Now days one can, with the proper rated replacement chassis can cap being replaced,(as it should have been by now !) & the simple insertion of a inrush current limiter Thermistor(CL80) in the 120 volt input inside the amp + change the MC 30`s power transformer`s primary tap over to 125 v to better deal with todays usually higher main`s voltage, one can buy a quality plug in SS rect. to hear for themselves any difference and decide from there.

I don`t know what if any experience you may have or not with working on audio equipment, but I have been professionally repairing (and also professionally FOH mixing live sound) all types of audio equipment since 1974, and don`t go around knowingly putting any stress on any of my customer`s or my own audio gear without testing the crap out of any modifications I might do then or now.

Nobody, so far on this site, that I`ve read yet, has ever seem to understand and or have admitted that "when" these and other tube rectified tube amps were designed, that high voltage SS(both selenium and the newly being developed silicon types starting to appear) that SS rectification was very, very expensive, and in the case of selenium "very bulky" for current carrying & PIV reasons + needing plenty of ventilation.
Whereas tube rectifiers in the late fifties were very cheap, especially when purchased in the large amounts needed for manufacturing.
And had been pretty much perfected, though admittedly wasteful with radiated heat and higher consumption of electricity for the simple conversion of AC to pulsed DC..

I`m not trying to ram "my personal choice" of tube amp rectification down anybody`s throat, just don`t poo, poo what you have not truly and properly tried, because some stellar reputation audio equipment manufacturer watched their company`s bottom line ..
I`m sure some people don`t or won`t like the less dynamically smearing effects of a "faster" responding SS rectified PS tube amp conversion and that`s fine by me.

BTW. SS rectification neither removes, nor adds anything from the original sound source, but merely allows more efficient conversion of the rectification which opens up the dynamics IMHO/E

After all the perception of sound is, and always be subjective and that`s understandable.. To each their own, and always trust your ears.. Take care. Thank you. Regards, OKB
 
Hi everyone, looking around for tube info I came across this old thread. I have had the same doubt myself and actually seen some mc30 that used what seems to be 5r4 Wgy.
Does anyone have any experience using this tube with the mc30? Im totally ignorant when it comes to tube replacement and matching.
F.
 

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It has a higher voltage drop than a 5U4GB. I'd stick with what it was made for.

Tube# - Base - Fvolt - Famp - Vdrop - MaxPmA - MaxPv - notes
5AR4/GZ34-5DA - 5.0 - 1.9 - 17 - 250 - 450 - low Vdrop 5U4/5Y3
5AS4-A - 5T - 5.0 - 3.0 - 50 - 275 - 450 - improved 5U4
5R4-G/GY- 5T - 5.0 - 2.0 - 67 - 250 - 750 - high voltage 5U4
5R4-GYA - 5T - 5.0 - 2.0 - 67 - 250 - 750 - high voltage 5U4 (ruggedized)
5R4-GYB - 5T - 5.0 - 2.0 - 63 - 250 - 900 - high voltage 5U4 (ruggedized)
5T4 - 5T - 5.0 - 2.0 - 45 - 225 - 450 - metal 5U4
5U4-G - 5T - 5.0 - 3.0 - 44 - 225 - 450 - octal 5Z3
5U4-GA - 5T - 5.0 - 3.0 - 44 - 250 - 450
5U4-GB - 5T - 5.0 - 3.0 - 50 - 275 - 450
 
The amps look like they could use a good going over to clean them up. It's just for aesthetics, not the sound quality. I'm referring to the picture of the rusty ones, not the other photos.
 
The amps look like they could use a good going over to clean them up. It's just for aesthetics, not the sound quality. I'm referring to the picture of the rusty ones, not the other photos.

Patina, baby !
South Miami FL.`s salt encrusted air effects surface rust by the time of my purchase in 1974 of these used battle worn workhorses was no concern to the visual effects, as I am not concerned with show casing my amplifiers(bragging rights), only that they are minimally performing to their electronic specifications, or better, and that their expected SQ delivers !!

If my amplifiers do what their supposed to do, well that`s all that matters to my SQ oriented friends, and myself, since we`re listening to music & not fondling ourselves over visuals of tube glow, or some other visual stimulating nonsense !!

No SO here to complain about some visual imperfection of my audio equipment looks, nor is important, or would be allowed in my house !!
I listen to music from the conveyance of the reproducing equipment, not stare at it, or choose to show case it !

Function before form, if it ends up looking good/great whilst doing so, well that`s not a deciding concern !

I`ve been a audio tech way too long to care about any concerns about visual appearance, especially fireplace installed 60 +yr. old rustic tube amplifiers !

Ciao
 
The word patina disappointed me. I though it was pronounced pah-teen nah, with accent on the second syllable. The word looked like a little poodle dog doing a ballerina number. Then I discovered that the word was pronounced Pat 'n nah, with accent on the first syllable. Now it looked like a blob of something thrown against a wall, sliding down leaving a trail as it slid. Splat! As for appearance, that's in the eye of the beholder. My preference is for clean looking stuff, but I do agree that a cruddy looking amp can sound every bit as as good as a clean one so long as it is in good electrical order. Electrons just don't care about such things. Wild flowers don't care where they grow.
 
The word patina disappointed me. I though it was pronounced pah-teen nah, with accent on the second syllable. The word looked like a little poodle dog doing a ballerina number. Then I discovered that the word was pronounced Pat 'n nah, with accent on the first syllable. Now it looked like a blob of something thrown against a wall, sliding down leaving a trail as it slid. Splat! As for appearance, that's in the eye of the beholder. My preference is for clean looking stuff, but I do agree that a cruddy looking amp can sound every bit as as good as a clean one so long as it is in good electrical order. Electrons just don't care about such things. Wild flowers don't care where they grow.

:beerchug:, no they don`t care !
Just as long as their(the electrons) paths are happy, & balanced ! :bowdown:
 
I know I'm pretty late here...anyway: concerning the quality of sound with the mc-30, the rectifier does not play any role of importance - as far as I found out...responsable for perfection of sound are: V1 to V4 - V1 = ECC83/12AX7 or 5751 /V2 = 12AU7 or 5814 - a bit less important: V3 = 12BH7A - V4 = 12AX7 or 5751 again.

almost 10 years ago, I found a posting of a guy namen Robert H. (forgot to copy the link) - he had tested trough all the old tubes on the scene...

I ended up with some Sylvania Yellow Label JHS 5751WA and either CBS Hytron 5814 or Siemens ECC82 - in my system the so called "legend" Sylvania Gold Brand grey plate gold pin - could not cope with the yellow labels...

In the end, the rest of your system of course plays a main role...
Here you might find some more impressions...http://oldstockaudio.blogspot.com/

And a final note: if you stay with a tube system or a SS system - you need some conviction and you need to know your personal ears!
 
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