Fisher 220T...

Got it!!

That was almost too easy!!

Turning R401 got the Stereo back... Set signal at TP401 to highest reading, 560-570mV, but that seems higher than the 30mV you posted...

Are there any "fine tuning" adjustments that need to be made? the Stereo separation seem fine,,, I didn't adjust the preamp board pot yet, but I can...

I glad to have this "worthless" scope!!! Its easy to observe the difference in the channels...

Regards,
John
 

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Excellent. The 30 mV was an estimate but it's good that you have more. Put the scope on TP 403 and adjust Z401 through Z404 for maximum signal. Most likely, there will be little or no improvement. If the slugs are tight, be careful as I managed to turn a ratio detector coil rather than the slug inside it and had to do the following makeshift with different coils .....

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After looking at the link to the scope, I was starting to be concerned that it might just be a "2 man scope".

The R401 Trigger control can be adjusted when testing stations of different signal strength so that multiplex is only enabled when the station is strong enough to have a noise free signal. This will be according to your preferences.

After maximizing the signal at TP403, I don't know if your scope has an X-Y mode. If it does, then use one channel of audio for X the other for Y and you will get this (Beethovens brain on drugs) .....

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You can then tweak Z404 very slightly to see if you can maximize Ludwigs phrenology. If the audio connection is after the preamp, then you can adjust that R111 Stereo pot on the preamp board to see if you can get any additional improvement in separation.

If the scope does not have X-Y, then don't do the final tweak on Z404 because you will not be able to improve it by ear. However, you may still be able to get improvement with the R111 Stereo pot by listening with headphones and source material with good separation. Otherwise, just leave it at maximum resistance.
 
I think I'm catching on slowly... Good teachers make that happen! The scope doesn't have X-Y,, only X1-X2...
I did tweek it a little, and set the separation pot on the preamp at the highest reading I could get...
Left R 401 at the highest mV setting,,,,They happened to play a block of Pink Floyd, and the Stereo separation is as good as I can get it...

I may change some of loose caps, and try to find a way to repair some of the lettering on the face...
Well, I did learn that these old eyes are more suited for point to point tube chassis work, than SS and PCB's!!! And I really like the tube sound much more than SS, even tho this "old school" Fisher SS is supposed to sound tubey, its way too bassy, and not as smooth as the Maggy's, and little SE amps I built, and restored... Sounds a lot like the Sansui I listened to for 40 years... But, I'll still try it with other speaker systems I have...
I really appreciate all the time you offered here,,,

Regards,
John
 
Sounds like you're about finished with this one. But don't call me a "teacher". I'm just exchanging information like everyone else and I learned a few things from this project as well.

One of the keys for working on the PC boards is a good solder sucker. I can have a 14 pin chip unsoldered and removed in about the same time it takes to pry one out of a socket without mangling the pins. A trick on the Fisher boards, at least when the 600-T was built, is to cut the lead close to the board on the component side. They flattened the leads underneath before soldering and it is easier to drop the piece of wire out from the top. Of course, if you are reusing the part, then you have to take it out from the top.

As for the old eyes, I'm 67. Need minor but not absolutely necessary correction for distance, but have used readers since age 40 and keep stepping up to more powerful readers. I keep some older readers for the computer because the distance is greater than reading paper. Then, at the bench, for model railroading and electronics, it's the stronger readers with an Optivisor. On a few rare occasions, a magnifying glass in addition to that.

I also check all resistors with an ohmmeter because the color bands are not quite what we used to have on the Ohmite "Little Devils", in size or color consistency, and even the reputable suppliers have been known to mispackage.
 
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Thanks again, Fred,,,
I got into this hobby, (obsession), a little over a year ago, wanting to get rid of static etc, in my Sansui, since then gravitated to tube audio, and tripped over this Fisher at a hamfest for a couple bucks...
I'm 66, with the same sight limitations, and an American Flyer train repairer, restorer,,,, I take two 1/2" thick core motors, remove the windings, and combine them to make 1" super motors...
I agree, cutting leads makes it easier to remove small components, but the original idea was to "just try" a replacement. However, it always seems to be better to replace em, as they are pretty old, in the stuff I work on...
As for dropping the leads thru the bottom, one thing I learned here, is the little round trace connector is easy to dislodge, pushing top thru the bottom, at least on this Fisher board, which had very little sealer over the traces to hold them on...

I will keep at this receiver, as it was cheap enough to use as a test mule...

Many thanks to Larry, as well as the rest of the forum, for their continued support to us new guys,,, without the help, we couldn't progress as quickly...Hope to learn enough to pass it forward...

Regards,
John
 
I think Mr Fisher and Mr Kloss knew each other...Found teh right combo for these guys!!

Just need a small bright for the original Fisher VC, and I think we're done...
Regards,
John
 
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Is the tuning knob original? Doesn't look right in the photo. Also, shouldn't the volume control be a small knob?

New small knobs are available on eBay but slightly pricey at maybe $15. Those others can be cleaned up ....

Before .....

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After 2-3 days soaking in vinegar, then touch up with a wire brush and 600 grit sandpaper .....

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Good eye, Fred...

The knob on the tuning stem is from a Maggy console, the only brown and "brass" ones I had around... and I moved the original Fisher tuning knob to the VC position...
I have the original Fisher VC knob, but its missing teh brass bright...

I polished the knobs on a buffing wheel with green rouge, came out very nice,,, If the lettering was good on the faceplate, this amp would look real good...

Still considering looking into some cap changes, to defeat some bass,,, as good, and "late 60's"as this amp sounds,,, it can't hold a candle to a restored Maggy on the same speakers...

Regards,
John
 
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Good eye, Fred...

The knob on the tuning stem is from a Maggy console, the only brown and "brass" ones I had around... and I moved the original Fisher tuning knob to the VC position...
I have the original Fisher VC knob, but its missing teh brass bright...

I polished the knobs on a buffing wheel with green rouge, came out very nice,,, If the lettering was good on the faceplate, this amp would look real good...

Still considering looking into some cap changes, to defeat some bass,,, as good, and "late 60's"as this amp sounds,,, it can't hold a candle to a restored Maggy on the same speakers...

Regards,
John
I know it's been a couple of years but I'm looking for an knob for my treble on my fisher 220 T are they hard to come by?
 
bgym; The Bass and Treble knobs are two piece, so may be a bit harder to get.

Knockbill there are replacement bright's for the Solid State knobs now. Check with the regular sellers on E-PREY.
 
bgym; The Bass and Treble knobs are two piece, so may be a bit harder to get.

Knockbill there are replacement bright's for the Solid State knobs now. Check with the regular sellers on E-PREY.

Yes,,, There is an AK member who has them, I met him at Kutztown... his name is Mike Stock(sp), IIRC...
 
I think I'm gonna pass on this unit after looking more closely and finding out that only one channel works I think the sellers is asking too much maybe I'll try to find something a little bit more vintage like one of the early tube receivers.
 
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