Fisher 500C

Discussion in 'Fisher' started by playittwice, Apr 13, 2018 at 1:40 PM.

  1. playittwice

    playittwice Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    592
    Location:
    Dubuque Iowa
    I have a hankering to try tubes and am thinking a Fisher 500C might be a good route to try. Does anyone here have any experience with vintage Sansui to compare to said unit? The Fisher would have to displace either my 999 or 9090. Good idea or not so much?

    Thanks
     

     

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  2. thornev

    thornev Active Member

    Messages:
    247
    Location:
    Mid Hudson Valley, NY
    play - Many of us have 500-C. I do and I love it. It's a great-sounding unit and is relatively easy to mod (thanks to the gurus who share all they know about modding). So I vote YES for you to go 500-C. I can't comment on Sansui. No experience with them.

    The trick will be to find one that is in good shape to begin with. Be careful on eBay. Lots of people make like they know when they really don't. All they know is "it worked fine 5 years ago when I last used it." Sitting in a basement for 5 years can do damage.
     
  3. playittwice

    playittwice Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    592
    Location:
    Dubuque Iowa
    This unit has been gone through by Craig @ NOS in 2013 the seller says.(hope I can say that on the forum )No wood case though.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2018 at 3:48 PM
  4. thornev

    thornev Active Member

    Messages:
    247
    Location:
    Mid Hudson Valley, NY
    There are aftermarket cases. Not cheap though.
     
  5. sberger

    sberger Hard Core Geezer Subscriber

    You should be able to confirm the work with Craig, and get a receipt for the work done. If any mods were completed, ask for a schematic for the work so if you or anybody else ever needs to work on it again they'll know what they're looking at.

    Confirm that everything is working as it should(no hum, no buzz, all inputs work as should) Ask if Craig did an FM alignment. Also, one of the little bugs that a lot of Fisher's have is issues with the volume control. Specifically, when the volume is low(say less then 4 on the gain) the balance can be off. Not a big deal as you can always just use the balance control to even things out, but you want to know about it.

    The 500C is a terrific piece, and will sound great with your Klipsch's. Good luck.
     
  6. playittwice

    playittwice Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    592
    Location:
    Dubuque Iowa
    Thanks everyone for the guidance. Great info.
     
  7. AlTinkster92

    AlTinkster92 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    3,085
    Location:
    NC
    I have a Sansui 8080DB, and love it. However, I do prefer the sound of my 800C better. Both sound good for what they are, my 2 cents.....
     
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  8. baconbadge

    baconbadge New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    Queens, NY
    Get lots of pics, especially close ups of all the wiring underneath.
     
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  9. deeezy

    deeezy Active Member

    Messages:
    406
    Location:
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My 500c powers the Cornwalls I recently picked up, and it sounds great! The only thing I don't like is a slight hum when nothing is playing, due to the high efficiency of the Cornwalls. When I hook them up to my SS Fisher amp, there is no hum. A small price to pay, though, because that 500c is otherwise perfect for the speakers. Should sound great with your Heresys (Heresies?)! Enjoy.
     

     

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  10. nj pheonix

    nj pheonix AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    8,980
    Location:
    New Jersey
    Fishers tend to be pretty quiet when working right.
    While I never had a 500c, my somewhat educated guess is yours could use a little TLC
     
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  11. sberger

    sberger Hard Core Geezer Subscriber

    I can hear no hum through my Cornwall's with my 500C, sitting about 8-10 feet away. Could be a tube, could be AC hum(might want to move your IC's and power cord around. Does it happen on all inputs? I agree with nj pheonix on this one.
     
  12. CKDC

    CKDC AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Can any of you guys offer a figure on how much a professional in an expensive area would charge to restore the electronics of a 500c?

    I would want the tuner working as well as the amp.

    Assume that I will do the cosmetics and the receive has been sitting for years.

    What would a decent set of tubes cost?

    Thanks!
     
  13. thornev

    thornev Active Member

    Messages:
    247
    Location:
    Mid Hudson Valley, NY
    Look on eBay for a sample of what some people charge to restore fully a receiver. Maybe Craig's List too.
     
  14. Catmanboo

    Catmanboo Active Member

    Messages:
    316
    Location:
    Atwater, ohio
    Ckdc, Don't rule out that you need all new tubes, as about all but your output tubes are likely good, unless the oem's have been plundered & replaced with a handful of mixed brands out of someone's stash. If you don't have a dim-bulb tester or variac, build the dbt (super easy & cheap, mine was free from junk-box bits) & use that to power it up when the time comes. Use a 150w INCANDESCENT bulb in it. I found out that both my 500c's were functional (original & unmodified ) using a combo dbt/variac I built. There's a bunch of reliability mods available on this site (fisher stickies ) that you'll probably want to tackle once you get an estimate or 2 from someone who may or may not know what to do. Add in the risk factor of shipping it off to God knows where, horror stories abound of valuable gear damaged or destroyed in transit. 500c is well worth the time, effort & $$ to fix up. A wealth of expert advice here, so do your research & proceed accordingly!
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2018 at 11:29 AM
  15. larryderouin

    larryderouin Turn it UP, POP? PLLUUEEEZZZZZEE Subscriber

    Messages:
    21,196
    Location:
    Glen Burnie Md.
    CKDC; The 500c is fairly simple to rehab and CAN be done by someone who has a basic knowledge of mechanical and electrical systems. You'd be replacing about 30-35 individual capacitors, (The can's included) and some power resistors, diodes. Testing the resistors in the unit can and will be time consuming AFTER you take the initial Voltage Readings. LABOR is the biggest cost in ANY electronic rehab/restoration. A compete set of parts (metalbone kit, CAN CAPS, upgrade parts(mainly resistors)) will set you back about $220.00. As for installing these, it's an 800C WITHOUT the AM Band tubes, and circuits. Tuner alignment is recommeded to be sent out . There are some shops around the DC area that can do an alignment for btwn $100. to $175. or so. None of the shops are fond of doing complete restorations as they end up tyig down a tech for 10-12 hours and it's nt a profit maker. These shops live on turnaround. So don't expect prices less than $700-800. at minimum.

    Learn the hobby, and learn how to do it yourself. There are quite a few threads in the Stickies that pertain to the 400-500c-800c and all operate basically the same way. Parts are numbered differently from model to model, but that isn't a deal breaker. Ask questions of the group, and you'll get more and better responses than you would with ANY SHOP. We aren't here for money, were here for the love of the units, be it a mono tube amp, a mid 60's hybrid each, Multiplexers, etc. Most of us have at least 4-5 units that we've rebuilt/rehabbed/restored ourselves.

    12ax7's start at about $12.95 for JJ's and run up to $50. each for Mullard Re-issues. These are all Russian tubes. You can scarf NEW Sylvania's from ABCVACUUMTUBES for about $15.00 each (These are NOS tubes and in original boxes, you have to specify Sylvania's). Fisher switched from Telefunken tubes to Sylvania's about 1966 when they were switching over to Solid State. The rest of the small signal tubes (for the tuner run btwn $3.00 to $6.00 each). If you want Old Stock Westinghouse tubes (generally used and unknown condition figure on $50-75 each to up to $200-250 for NEW OLD STOCK from some dealers. The EH7591's and TungSol 7591a Russian tubes are a good sub (and all I use with very good results in all my 7591 rigs) Run btwn $90.00 a qad for EH's and about $140. for the Tungsols. The big advantage to the Tungsols are the glass size. Same as original 7591 by Westinghouse. The EH's have a larger envelope. Either is a good choice for the 500c with caveats (this goes for all NEW Russian 7591's and is good for old tubes too). Screen Stability Resistors, Cathode Resistors, and the BIG one. Changing the value of the output coupling caps from .047uf to .068uf with concurrent grid return resistor value change from 330K to 220K. The outout tubes in FISHERs are ride hard and put away wet (overloaded at all times.) These changes will bring the tubes down into the SOA (Safe operating area) of the tubes as designed by the tube manufacturers, Which most all audio manufacturers threw out with the baby;s bath water when designing these unit's. Adding an IBAM or IBBA board (Individual Bias or Bias Balance bards) will allow you to adjust the bias of the tubes from running at the ragged edge of dissipation to a easier running 70% to 80% of maximum dissipation will lengthen tube life and still give you a very good sounding unit with the ability (with at least semi efficient speakers) to rattle the neighbors windows, provided the houses are less than 8 ft apart.

    Manuals for the 500c are available on www.fisherconsoles.com, and HIFIENGINE.com. The 500c doesn't have as many manuals as the 400 or the 800c so get the one that is closest to your Serial #. Also Check www.akdatabase/AKVIEW.org (copy and paste exactly as written).

    On the general forum, DIY Forum, and Tbe Forum there are stickies that you should read and study. Also 800c threads can be studied as 99% of the circuits are the same or similar. AGAIN ASK QUESTIONS! Nothing is too DUMB....(Well maybe a few, but we won't gig ya for them either.) If you get stuck on something, ASK QUESTIONS and POST PHOTO's.

    Save yourself the aggravation of leaving at a shop and them not doing a complete job(most shops don't do the upgrades, or mods)that we do to our rigs here. All upgrades and mods are designed, tested on test mules, and proven with 100's to 1000's of hours on them. They run cooler, have had the output tube life extended, and are reliable as all get out. Plus if you do the work yourself you get BRAGGING Rights to tell your friends that you DID IT yourself. Even if you can't tell one end of a soldering Iron from the other. (Better learn this one fast or you'll end up with burned fingers or hands. :D We've all BTDT at one time or another, so you're in good company.

    1st thing to do is NOT PLUG IT IN and TURN IT ON. Flip it over and take the bottom cover off. Then take an overall picture of the undersides, and 4 views showing each quarter of the undersides close up. This would help us determine if your 500c is a shop virgin or what's been done to it, and allow us to figure out what you need to do.
    A topsides pic is useful too

    For a Novice the 500c should take 2-3 weekends to completely rehab it minus the alignment, but it'll be 99.999999999999&4/10ths done.
    So lets see some pics and we'll get ya started.
     
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  16. Catmanboo

    Catmanboo Active Member

    Messages:
    316
    Location:
    Atwater, ohio
    I second that entire motion! For ckdc: Larry (above post) is the guy who you'll get to know very well once YOU dig into your prospective fisher tube unit, should you go that route. His advice & knowledge, along with a few others on here, is spot-on, plus the entertainment factor gets a bit hilarious at times. Do not fear treading new ground. We aren't gonna let ya screw up, so baby steps first. You'll do fine, & learn a new hobby to boot!:D
     

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