Fisher cabinet reproduction - which one would you recommend?

Discussion in 'Fisher' started by cchean, May 31, 2018.

  1. cchean

    cchean AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,384
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    Looking for a cabinet replica for my Fisher X-1000 and KX-200. Although an original one would be nice, the reproductions that I've seen seem better build and sturdier. There was a seller on ebay that used to sell them, but I am not sure if he is still making them anymore.

    I am aware of a few AK members that build cabinets, but they are focused more on Pioneer and Marantz gear and they don't offer Fisher cabinets at all. Does anyone know of someone that I don't? Please share your commments on this. Thanks.
     

     

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  2. dsndblm

    dsndblm Well-Known Member

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  3. Sam08861

    Sam08861 Active Member

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    444
    Location:
    Northwestern NJ
    This is a very easy DIY. 4 rectangular pieces of wood and one cutout for the vent.
     
  4. Sam08861

    Sam08861 Active Member

    Messages:
    444
    Location:
    Northwestern NJ
    ps.. I can dig up and post the cutting and cutout measurements if you decide to go that route. Cost is ~$50 including veneer and fancy feet.

    One correction to my prior post, there's 3 cutouts. One on top and two on the bottom for venting.
     
  5. Kingfisher

    Kingfisher Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    792
    Location:
    Western MI
    I have mcintoshcabs building me two cabinets right now for both my Fisher 400 and Scott 355 (tall G cabinet). It's kind of pricey, but they are supposed to be rock solid. I sold off 2 Pioneer SX-850's to raise money to pay for it. Fellow AKer Craigtone bought my Bose 551 Spacial Control Receiver since I'll never have the time to replace literally 100's of capacitors in each of these monsters. A Fisher 400 with a beautiful walnut cabinet and a few other pieces of gear.....my version of "Spacial Control" ;)
     
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  6. davros

    davros AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    184
    Location:
    Winston Salem NC
    Sam, I would be interested in the cutout measurements. I've always wanted to try my hand at making a cabinet. I have a console pull KX-200 looking for a forever home.
     

     

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  7. notdigital

    notdigital AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    CC: Didn't you have a cab for that X-1000?? It was in a little need of TLC if I recall.
     
  8. Dadbar

    Dadbar Super Member

    Messages:
    1,868
    Location:
    Waltham & Gloucester MA
    I have two cabinets built by Mcintoshcabinets. They are nice...but they lack the patina of the vintage cabinets that I've gotten with other gear.
     
  9. larryderouin

    larryderouin Turn it UP, POP? PLLUUEEEZZZZZEE Subscriber

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    Patina grows with age. Old cars with worn paint jobs didn't come that way from the factory, they aged and wore down. You weren't wrinkly, sun damaged and aged when you were born, so why expect a NEW cabinet to be that way. Let it age. 10 years from now it'll have some patina.
     
  10. notdigital

    notdigital AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,225
    Location:
    NYNY
    My sentiments as well. They are exquisitely made but look too new when contrasted to the piece that is housed in them.
     
  11. Sam08861

    Sam08861 Active Member

    Messages:
    444
    Location:
    Northwestern NJ
    Davros,

    Sorry for the late reply, I'll dig thorough and find the cut sheet I gave to home depot, that has all the measurements or redraw it when I'm back home this weekend.

    Dadbar,

    While I wouldn't personally recommend doing this to Mcintoshcainet's incredibly beautiful enclosures, the below is a shortcut that might be helpful. Also, if there's any poly/varnish on the cabinet, that would have to be stripped or sanded anyway, risking damaging the veneer.

    https://pixiedustpaintcompany.com/products/pioneer-wood-diy-patina-quart
     

     

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  12. Sam08861

    Sam08861 Active Member

    Messages:
    444
    Location:
    Northwestern NJ
    I could not find my drawing, so redrew it... See below

    500 b dimensions.jpg

    I had home depot make one long cut to get the depth and then 4 more cuts to get the panels. Took him less than 5 minutes and they didn't charge me anything. All I had to do was cut out the vents on top and bottom with a jigsaw.

    One word of caution, if you buy a pre cut vent screen on top, don't cut the top vent until you get and double check the measurement. I made my own out of a pattern metal sheet also from home depot.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Bui...-Nickel-Mosaic-Aluminum-Sheet-57005/202525460

    I added a 1/4" square wood dowel to the front face as seen in a photo of the finished product close up below to match one of the more rare factory cabinets. This was my 1st foray into woodworking so I wasn't smart enough to miter cut the dowel like I did the veneer behind it. Although a lot sloppier than I could do on a 2nd try, it still passes the 2 foot test pretty easily

    Covered in cheap iron on oak veneer that was available ins store at home depot ($15 for 2' x 8') and feet were ~$7-8 bucks for all 4 from china via ebay.

    something like... https://www.ebay.com/itm/40x20mm-al...435730?hash=item2cd57f1212:g:8TIAAOSwlfxXFgvm

    fis500b.JPG

    You will also need rails on the bottom to ensure the bottom clears and the faceplate is vertical. I cut a 99 cent yard stick and glued two 10" strips along the bottom. Ensure you test fit before gluing as the front 3-4" need to be clear.

    Also, the cabinet is about 1" or so deeper than 'stock' but I did that as it give some protection to all the stuff plugged into it and the ibba board is out of the way.

    Finally, you can also look at page 12 of the owners manual if you want to secure the cabinet to the chassis (screw hole locations to match bottom of chassis). I didn't for 2 reasons. 1... I like being able to slide it out to check on tubes, etc. 2... it would have required me to counter sink the machine screws from below so they are flush. Feet would resolve the clearance issue if you don't care.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2018
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  13. Sam08861

    Sam08861 Active Member

    Messages:
    444
    Location:
    Northwestern NJ
    Here you can see the feet and the matching plinth for the turntable. Same veneer sheet and MDF board.
    clothes on.jpg
     
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  14. Sam08861

    Sam08861 Active Member

    Messages:
    444
    Location:
    Northwestern NJ
    Davros,

    Just realized after doing all this, that you have a KX-200... if you send me your faceplate dimensions and depth of your chassis. I can easily re-do the drawing to fit your unit.

    Sorry about that, but maybe this will helps someone else.
     
  15. Archguy

    Archguy Official Roiurama Factory Rep Subscriber

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    1,934
    Location:
    Richmond VA
    Now that's what I call co-ordinated! And now I want a classic Fisher again.
     
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  16. Sam08861

    Sam08861 Active Member

    Messages:
    444
    Location:
    Northwestern NJ
    Davros,

    Ok, found the kx-200 owner's manual with the dimensions... I think this will work for you. I don't know if a top vent is needed or not for the kx-200, but kept it in the design.

    Took the faceplate dimensions and added 3/4" all around. Cutout dimensions on bottom are from the owner's manual. Same comments above for finding the screw hole locations and owner's manual pages updated as well.

    ps... not drawn to scale as the 500b diagram is. Also, looks like the depth will give you 1/4" beyond the back of the chassis, so may want to go 13.5" for the depth if you want some extra room.

    kx200 dimensions.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2018

     

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  17. DavidJB

    DavidJB New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    Norfolk, VA
    Have to start somewhere. Would anyone know of somebody who makes wood cabinets for older Harman Kardon receivers? I have a 930 I'd love to find one for. Thanks.
     
  18. davros

    davros AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    184
    Location:
    Winston Salem NC
    Thanks Sam, Greatly appreciated. This will be a fall project, so this will all go in the file. Thanks!
     
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