Fisher Consoles 1945-1958

I don't understand the Pickering correspondence, the unit had a GE VR cart in it, which I updated with a nos VRII for 78s. I am considering another .1 stylus for my old
mono 50's lp, which seems to capture the full groove much clearer and cleaner..but for now am using the DJ designed Shure 35c, which is happy with a little more weight as used by a changer. I
am still very impressed with the lightweight arm on a unit of this age. I have weight added to the VR to improve tracking on wide groove 78's. I need to see Mr VM music for replacement idler wheels
as they are weak, and a little thumpy, even though I shaved a bit off to smooth, the rubber is harder than it should be due to age..
 
Oh BOY! Mr. FISHER Advocating the removal of the Dynamic Range Expanderby 1955, and installation of the PR-50 Preamp. Nice move. I did something similar with a 1948 Anniversary model and it really perked up the sound quality of the Phono which was a Webcor 356. I used a cheap ($18.00) generic stereo preamp and used one side only and put a shorting plug in the un-used side. Even the 78's perked up some. I might do the same thing with my 1951 Warwick which has the R-3.

Zeffer. There is a mod that Dave G. came up with for the R-3. I'll have to re-read the thread, but it pertains to the output tubes. http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/startup-hum-on-r-3.620577/page-2 It sets up the output end as it should have been designed. FISHER's Bean counters got in the way here. Also watch the Varible Cap for the tuner. Mine like to dump the FM Vanes. I finally got them to stay put after falling off and have had good results since 2014 with it.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/more-r-3-repairs.689912/

JJ 50/50 500v caps installed as Main Filter caps (clamped to chassis). About $8.50ea @ AES. And last Tung-Sol 6v6GTRe-Issues matched by Jim McShane @ operating voltages. Fantastic running unit. You can change out the RCA's on the back panel. They tend to be loose. I used the Gold plated ones from either Parts Express or Mouser. Do all of them (4).

Do you have the R1 to R3 manual with the Change sheet for the R-3? If not PM me and I'll shoot it out to you.
 
I don't have much experience with the JJ caps (I have one sitting around for my Sansui 1000A project), but I've had very good results with the Angela Instruments two-section caps. They're about the same price as the JJs. Don't buy the cheap white-label multi-section caps from AES, I had one crack in half, and I've heard numerous other failure reports.
 
Sam; I'm running the JJ's (50/50 500v) in both the R20 in my contemporary and my '51 WarwicK with the R-3. Only change is they need clamps to mount them. But for $8.50 ea. they are great caps. Way better than the White metal AES C-E's. I do have a C-E in my 1000A and haven't had any problems with it. It's the 4 section in the front of the unit so it's not getting any of the heat from the transformers, power resistors, and output tubes.
 
Kudos to Gary at VM Music, he sold me new idlers for my Webster rim drive turntable..a whole new world! he even had them in stock! I'm not in love with rim drive, but its acceptable and in the spirit of the era, just fine..I have sourced him for VR stylii as well
 
Sam; I'm running the JJ's (50/50 500v) in both the R20 in my contemporary and my '51 WarwicK with the R-3. Only change is they need clamps to mount them. But for $8.50 ea. they are great caps. Way better than the White metal AES C-E's. I do have a C-E in my 1000A and haven't had any problems with it. It's the 4 section in the front of the unit so it's not getting any of the heat from the transformers, power resistors, and output tubes.

The Angela caps also require clamps, unless you glue them to a phenolic "football" wafer. From what I've seen, the JJ and Angela parts are probably pretty similar in performance.
 
I second Sam's request to post the Avery Fisher letters. A very lucky find, indeed. I do love those blond Allegro cabinets. It nice to see one find a good home. Best Christmas news I've had this year!

Hi Red. I'm trying to figure out how to PM you but I'm new, never done it and cant see any way to send a message via your profile page either. Can you please tell me the model name and number of the console in your Avatar please? Also, if anyone can tell me where/how to send PM's I'd appreciate that too.

Thanks.

Jeff
 
Jeff;

To PM, click on the Person's name to bring up an info box. Right in the Middle is "Start a Conversation". It will open a conversation page. The new format last year gave us this "updated technology" comp. Red rarely gets on in the last year. If the questions you have are of a general nature of FISHER or specific pertaining to a certain model, I would suggest starting a thread. The guys on here are a dedicated bunch, and we could probably answer 80%-90% of the questions aimed at Red.

Larry

The console in RED's Avatar is a 1958-59 FISHER Contemporary. I added the comment

Contemporary R-20 C-800  Captioned.jpg

This is my 1958 Contemporry after all said and done.
NEW GRILL CLOTH & Badging.jpg

New Sovtek EL-84M's with Tube retainers from AES. New Sovtek 5AR4 Rectifier. 12ax7's are new Sovtek 12ax7LPS. All other tubes are originals. Replaced tubes are either FISHER branded Mullard or Fisher branded Telefunken. They have been packed and in storage. The 1958 had the R-20 chassis, and the 1959 had the R-30 chassis. This is the R-20.
R-20 post cap and clean--TOP.jpg
 
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Hi! I have a dilemma. Sell this or keep it as is or refinish and repurpose it. My problem is that I cannot find what is worth so I need some help. Obviously if it's worth money I do not want to destroy it by repurposing it. Also the antique lover in me kind of cringes at the thought of repurposing. It worked when I bought it about 13 years ago.
So here's what I think I know....
It's a Fisher console stereo and record player. From the research I've done I'm 99% sure it's a 1955 The Hamilton from the Ambassador Series. The chassis no is k-14, serial no is 65492. The record player is a Garrard model RC 88. Also I think I've found that you can't just go by what the cabinet style to determine the year make or model of the piece.
All help appreciated!
 

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SheriAnne. Hold On to it and keep it running. It's a HK-14 which is a 1955 Custom Electra DeLuxe(See the 1955 manual on page 1 of this thread.) in the Hampshire Cabinet. Also Post #68 on page 4. (Field Guide to Fisher Consoles Pt.1). It's worth a little more than the regular Custom Electra. Tearing one of these apart and repurposing is worse than yanking a 1955 corvette apart to repurpose the steering wheel on a yacht. There aren't that many left. BTW, If you'd have read the rules of the forums, all mention of $$$ and the post can at least be moved to Dollars and Sense or at worst, DELETED and you warned by ADMINS.

What's your location (edit your profile). You maybe close enough to one of us who have similar units that we can check it over before you plug it in and play it. If caps have not been replaced they can swell, and short circuit the unit. Tubes may also have a short (not likely but can happen). These all can be replaced.

When these are brought up to specification they are great performers, for mono units, and can sound better than Stereo.

Whatever you decide to do, I think you'll do so with the best interest of the HK-14.
 
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SheriAnne. Hold On to it and keep it running. It's a HK-14 which is a 1955 Custom Electra DeLuxe(See the 1955 manual on page 1 of this thread.) in the Hampshire Cabinet. Also Post #68 on page 4. (Field Guide to Fisher Consoles Pt.1). It's worth a little more than the regular Custom Electra. Tearing one of these apart and repurposing is worse than yanking a 1955 corvette apart to repurpose the steering wheel on a yacht. There aren't that many left. BTW, If you'd have read the rules of the forums, all mention of $$$ and the post can at least be moved to Dollars and Sense or at worst, DELETED and you warned by ADMINS.

What's your location (edit your profile). You maybe close enough to one of us who have similar units that we can check it over before you plug it in and play it. If caps have not been replaced they can swell, and short circuit the unit. Tubes may also have a short (not likely but can happen). These all can be replaced.

When these are brought up to specification they are great performers, for mono units, and can sound better than Stereo.

Whatever you decide to do, I think you'll do so with the best interest of the HK-14.
Thank you Larry! The basic info that I'd learned about my stereo that I put in my original post was from the posts you referenced, this is a very informative site. I couldn't find anything anywhere else which is why I decided to ask about it on here. You all are really knowledgeable! I haven't turned the stereo on because of the fear of possible damage or short circuit from the tubes but don't know of anyone who would be able to check it out for me. I updated my profile with my location, jacksonville fl. I also removed the mention of money from my original post. You've convinced me to leave it alone and not try to repurpose the piece, I was of course leaning to not but it was a thought. Thank you again!
 
SheriAnne; FYI, Stereo = 2 channels. Mono = 1 channel the HK-14 is MONO. HI-FI can be either. So Hi-Fi is appropriate here.

If you decide you want to rehab the radio and phonograph, there are guys on here that can do this. I don't do it much anymore on outside gear due to medical problems, but there are some really good techs here. Besides you'd have to ship the chassis and that get's expensive itself . The K-14 chassis is very much like the R3 and R20 series chassis' so it's fairly simple to overhaul.
The turntable is a good one, but it has the general ailments of hardened grease, lack of lubrication, and hardened or disintegrated rubber parts. These are also fairly easy to get hold of.

All up...caps, resistors, tubes, turntable parts.......between $150 and $250.00 depending on what it needs to run. It may not need tubes, or the turntable motor mounts may not be bad. That's why the disparity in costs.

Right now, Get some HOWARDS Restore a Finish in Walnut or Mahoghany (whichever you think is closest). and some 0000 steel wool. Go over the case with it, and after it's sat a day or two, Use Howards Feed and Wax. Keep adding coats until it stops soaking in within 20 minutes (4-6 coats). Let sit for a day and buff it out. Keep out of direct sunlight.

I'm sending you a PM.(converation).

Larry
 
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I don't understand the Pickering correspondence, the unit had a GE VR cart in it, which I updated with a nos VRII for 78s. I am considering another .1 stylus for my old
mono 50's lp, which seems to capture the full groove much clearer and cleaner..but for now am using the DJ designed Shure 35c, which is happy with a little more weight as used by a changer. I
am still very impressed with the lightweight arm on a unit of this age. I have weight added to the VR to improve tracking on wide groove 78's. I need to see Mr VM music for replacement idler wheels
as they are weak, and a little thumpy, even though I shaved a bit off to smooth, the rubber is harder than it should be due to age..

The Fisher console may have had a Pickering cartridge installed at some time in it's life, then
got a GE RPX, then a VR II lastly by you until you added the Shure in another headshell. That early Pickering with it's non user replaceable stylus, likely got the GE RPX installed for that reason (as it had user replaceable styli, very practical to do), and if I recall correctly Fisher installed GE VR type cartridges as the 1950's progressed onward.
 
I've wanted a dedicated mono turntable for ages since I have hundreds of mono lps. In March of last year I picked up a Fisher Series 51 consolette with the idea I'd get it to work and enjoy those lps.
The console had been gently used but the Garrard 121 changer was gummed up and the previous owner had turned the amp on after sitting for 35 years and something blew. The TT had a GE VR II cartridge and 2 33 rpm stylus and a nice 78 rpm stylus.
Turning on the amp fried the power switch so I ordered a replacement and left the amp with a tech. Turns out one of the transformers was bad. Bummer!
Would you believe it, 3 days later I see on clist a working Fisher amp/tuner chassis from a small console, chassis 202.
The newly purchased chassis is now in the hands of the amp tech and should be in my hands next Tuesday and should bolt right into the cabinet, so it will also have am/fm radio!
The TT. The Garrard 121 is primitive. I got it working, but there's no denying it's weaknesses, but the cartridge is another story. I had a Garrard A6 that worked fine. It's still a changer, that I dont need, but it's a better TT by a long shot; it has a heavy headshell that with modification for the center post works well with the cartridge; and it fits in the space occupied by the 121. That TT is running into my main stereo through Klipsch Heresys right now and I've been playing nothing but mono for a week!
Next, I'll put the refreshed "receiver" and A6 back in the cabinet and hook it back up.
The speakers in the cabinet include a Jensen alnico woofer and 2 Philip's Philip's alnico midrange with whizzers for the highs I guess; no crossover that I can see. The original damping material is in place, but only on the bottom and left side inside the cabinet. Seems like there will be significant vibration in that cabinet and the TT is exposed. Should I add more?
I will try to post pics when the amp comes bac next week. Before and after sort of.
Thanks for your patience reading this.
 
@TheRed1 are you still collecting literature for the Fisher consoles? I’m going to part mine out and would like to give my documentation to you of someone collecting them.
 
Duff; Send him an email (use the one listed on Fisherconsoles.) I don't have his regular email on my laptop. If you can't get hold of him contact jonboy55 via fisherconsole site.

Larry
 
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