Fisher Consoles 1945-1958

Discussion in 'Fisher Forum Stickies' started by TheRed1, Mar 16, 2008.

  1. zeffer1940

    zeffer1940 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Sylvania oHIo
  2. zeffer1940

    zeffer1940 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    178
    Location:
    Sylvania oHIo
  3. zeffer1940

    zeffer1940 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    178
    Location:
    Sylvania oHIo
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2016
  4. zeffer1940

    zeffer1940 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I don't understand the Pickering correspondence, the unit had a GE VR cart in it, which I updated with a nos VRII for 78s. I am considering another .1 stylus for my old
    mono 50's lp, which seems to capture the full groove much clearer and cleaner..but for now am using the DJ designed Shure 35c, which is happy with a little more weight as used by a changer. I
    am still very impressed with the lightweight arm on a unit of this age. I have weight added to the VR to improve tracking on wide groove 78's. I need to see Mr VM music for replacement idler wheels
    as they are weak, and a little thumpy, even though I shaved a bit off to smooth, the rubber is harder than it should be due to age..
     
  5. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    Oh BOY! Mr. FISHER Advocating the removal of the Dynamic Range Expanderby 1955, and installation of the PR-50 Preamp. Nice move. I did something similar with a 1948 Anniversary model and it really perked up the sound quality of the Phono which was a Webcor 356. I used a cheap ($18.00) generic stereo preamp and used one side only and put a shorting plug in the un-used side. Even the 78's perked up some. I might do the same thing with my 1951 Warwick which has the R-3.

    Zeffer. There is a mod that Dave G. came up with for the R-3. I'll have to re-read the thread, but it pertains to the output tubes. http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/startup-hum-on-r-3.620577/page-2 It sets up the output end as it should have been designed. FISHER's Bean counters got in the way here. Also watch the Varible Cap for the tuner. Mine like to dump the FM Vanes. I finally got them to stay put after falling off and have had good results since 2014 with it.
    http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/more-r-3-repairs.689912/

    JJ 50/50 500v caps installed as Main Filter caps (clamped to chassis). About $8.50ea @ AES. And last Tung-Sol 6v6GTRe-Issues matched by Jim McShane @ operating voltages. Fantastic running unit. You can change out the RCA's on the back panel. They tend to be loose. I used the Gold plated ones from either Parts Express or Mouser. Do all of them (4).

    Do you have the R1 to R3 manual with the Change sheet for the R-3? If not PM me and I'll shoot it out to you.
     
  6. Sam Cogley

    Sam Cogley Last of the Time Lords Subscriber

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    I don't have much experience with the JJ caps (I have one sitting around for my Sansui 1000A project), but I've had very good results with the Angela Instruments two-section caps. They're about the same price as the JJs. Don't buy the cheap white-label multi-section caps from AES, I had one crack in half, and I've heard numerous other failure reports.
     
  7. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    Sam; I'm running the JJ's (50/50 500v) in both the R20 in my contemporary and my '51 WarwicK with the R-3. Only change is they need clamps to mount them. But for $8.50 ea. they are great caps. Way better than the White metal AES C-E's. I do have a C-E in my 1000A and haven't had any problems with it. It's the 4 section in the front of the unit so it's not getting any of the heat from the transformers, power resistors, and output tubes.
     
  8. zeffer1940

    zeffer1940 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Kudos to Gary at VM Music, he sold me new idlers for my Webster rim drive turntable..a whole new world! he even had them in stock! I'm not in love with rim drive, but its acceptable and in the spirit of the era, just fine..I have sourced him for VR stylii as well
     
  9. Sam Cogley

    Sam Cogley Last of the Time Lords Subscriber

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    The Angela caps also require clamps, unless you glue them to a phenolic "football" wafer. From what I've seen, the JJ and Angela parts are probably pretty similar in performance.
     
  10. Saxyjeff2001

    Saxyjeff2001 New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Hi Red. I'm trying to figure out how to PM you but I'm new, never done it and cant see any way to send a message via your profile page either. Can you please tell me the model name and number of the console in your Avatar please? Also, if anyone can tell me where/how to send PM's I'd appreciate that too.

    Thanks.

    Jeff
     
  11. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    Jeff;

    To PM, click on the Person's name to bring up an info box. Right in the Middle is "Start a Conversation". It will open a conversation page. The new format last year gave us this "updated technology" comp. Red rarely gets on in the last year. If the questions you have are of a general nature of FISHER or specific pertaining to a certain model, I would suggest starting a thread. The guys on here are a dedicated bunch, and we could probably answer 80%-90% of the questions aimed at Red.

    Larry

    The console in RED's Avatar is a 1958-59 FISHER Contemporary. I added the comment

    Contemporary R-20 C-800  Captioned.jpg

    This is my 1958 Contemporry after all said and done.
    NEW GRILL CLOTH & Badging.jpg

    New Sovtek EL-84M's with Tube retainers from AES. New Sovtek 5AR4 Rectifier. 12ax7's are new Sovtek 12ax7LPS. All other tubes are originals. Replaced tubes are either FISHER branded Mullard or Fisher branded Telefunken. They have been packed and in storage. The 1958 had the R-20 chassis, and the 1959 had the R-30 chassis. This is the R-20.
    R-20 post cap and clean--TOP.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2017
  12. SheriAnne

    SheriAnne New Member

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    2
    Location:
    Jacksonville Florida
    Hi! I have a dilemma. Sell this or keep it as is or refinish and repurpose it. My problem is that I cannot find what is worth so I need some help. Obviously if it's worth money I do not want to destroy it by repurposing it. Also the antique lover in me kind of cringes at the thought of repurposing. It worked when I bought it about 13 years ago.
    So here's what I think I know....
    It's a Fisher console stereo and record player. From the research I've done I'm 99% sure it's a 1955 The Hamilton from the Ambassador Series. The chassis no is k-14, serial no is 65492. The record player is a Garrard model RC 88. Also I think I've found that you can't just go by what the cabinet style to determine the year make or model of the piece.
    All help appreciated!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 19, 2017
  13. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    SheriAnne. Hold On to it and keep it running. It's a HK-14 which is a 1955 Custom Electra DeLuxe(See the 1955 manual on page 1 of this thread.) in the Hampshire Cabinet. Also Post #68 on page 4. (Field Guide to Fisher Consoles Pt.1). It's worth a little more than the regular Custom Electra. Tearing one of these apart and repurposing is worse than yanking a 1955 corvette apart to repurpose the steering wheel on a yacht. There aren't that many left. BTW, If you'd have read the rules of the forums, all mention of $$$ and the post can at least be moved to Dollars and Sense or at worst, DELETED and you warned by ADMINS.

    What's your location (edit your profile). You maybe close enough to one of us who have similar units that we can check it over before you plug it in and play it. If caps have not been replaced they can swell, and short circuit the unit. Tubes may also have a short (not likely but can happen). These all can be replaced.

    When these are brought up to specification they are great performers, for mono units, and can sound better than Stereo.

    Whatever you decide to do, I think you'll do so with the best interest of the HK-14.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2017
  14. SheriAnne

    SheriAnne New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Jacksonville Florida
    Thank you Larry! The basic info that I'd learned about my stereo that I put in my original post was from the posts you referenced, this is a very informative site. I couldn't find anything anywhere else which is why I decided to ask about it on here. You all are really knowledgeable! I haven't turned the stereo on because of the fear of possible damage or short circuit from the tubes but don't know of anyone who would be able to check it out for me. I updated my profile with my location, jacksonville fl. I also removed the mention of money from my original post. You've convinced me to leave it alone and not try to repurpose the piece, I was of course leaning to not but it was a thought. Thank you again!
     
  15. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    SheriAnne; FYI, Stereo = 2 channels. Mono = 1 channel the HK-14 is MONO. HI-FI can be either. So Hi-Fi is appropriate here.

    If you decide you want to rehab the radio and phonograph, there are guys on here that can do this. I don't do it much anymore on outside gear due to medical problems, but there are some really good techs here. Besides you'd have to ship the chassis and that get's expensive itself . The K-14 chassis is very much like the R3 and R20 series chassis' so it's fairly simple to overhaul.
    The turntable is a good one, but it has the general ailments of hardened grease, lack of lubrication, and hardened or disintegrated rubber parts. These are also fairly easy to get hold of.

    All up...caps, resistors, tubes, turntable parts.......between $150 and $250.00 depending on what it needs to run. It may not need tubes, or the turntable motor mounts may not be bad. That's why the disparity in costs.

    Right now, Get some HOWARDS Restore a Finish in Walnut or Mahoghany (whichever you think is closest). and some 0000 steel wool. Go over the case with it, and after it's sat a day or two, Use Howards Feed and Wax. Keep adding coats until it stops soaking in within 20 minutes (4-6 coats). Let sit for a day and buff it out. Keep out of direct sunlight.

    I'm sending you a PM.(converation).

    Larry
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2017
    SheriAnne likes this.

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