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Fisher Face plate and Chassis cleaning question ?

Discussion in 'Fisher' started by escorial, Dec 4, 2018.

  1. escorial

    escorial AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    139
    Hi,
    Over the years I have been ussing Windex to clean my audio faceplates, it always did a good job and never hurt the lettering.

    I have read a post somewhere about using Plexus ( its made for cleaning motorcycle windshields), I lost the articcle almost as soon as I found it.

    Needless to say would like some feedback

    TIA
     

     

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  2. tcdriver

    tcdriver AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    5,413
    Location:
    Valley of Heart's Delight
    Different Fisher gear used different inks for the face lettering. Many of the Fisher receivers in the early 70's easily loose the lettering with the use of simple water and a very small amount of elbow grease. Be very careful.
     
  3. Catmanboo

    Catmanboo AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    529
    Location:
    Atwater, ohio
    I put the faceplates of my 2 500c's under warm water, dish detergent with an old toothbrush followed by a good waxing with car wax. This makes them more resistant to future fingerprints. I wouldn't use anything stronger for safety sake.
     
  4. sgmlaw

    sgmlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    442
    Depends on the faceplate material. For the extruded aluminum ones most encountered with 1960-1970 vintage Fishers, a quick wipe with a rag saturated with clear ammonia, followed immediately with a cold water rinse, made them always sparkle like new, even ones that looked hopelessly soiled.

    For the older or more special lacquered ones (over solid brass or stamped plates), you are best to leave them be, except for a quick wipe with a rag lightly dampened with water.

    For glossy plastics, either clear or colored, where there is not anything painted on it, the best and most gentle product I've ever used to remove scratches and surface contamination is Maguire's Scratch-X, using a soft cotton cloth, followed by a plastic-friendly polyseal 'wax'. Heavier scratches may take more localized repeated attempts, as it is so gentle. Never attempt this on matte finished plastics, for obvious reasons.

    Never brush scrub any vintage faceplate if you value the sinkscreeening. And whatever you do, never attempt to clean the back of an older dial glass except with dry methods, steering clear of the lettering. The painted dial markings will often wash right off the glass, especially so if it saw more UV exposure over the years.
     

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