Fisher KX-200 Innards (can somebody tell me what was done)
- Thread starter escorial
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escorial
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Sorry so what do they do? I was looking at pix of a stock KX200 and saw no caps in that area?
Here is a pix I grabbed off the web and I believe its a stick configuration see attached pix.
Any sites available with walk thoughs / pix on how to mod or update this model?
The seller did state that the unit was gone through at a shop and given a clean bill of health
Here is a pix I grabbed off the web and I believe its a stick configuration see attached pix.
Any sites available with walk thoughs / pix on how to mod or update this model?
The seller did state that the unit was gone through at a shop and given a clean bill of health
Attachments
They're in that picture, 4 small silver cylinders about halfway up the right side of the image. "Orange Drops" tend to be on the larger side which is why they really stand out compared to the original caps.
Coupling caps prevent the DC voltage from a previous amplification stage from being passed to the input of the next stage. If they start to fail ("leak" voltage) the power dissipation of the downstream tube goes up, essentially wasting a bunch of power amplifying nothing. I'm guessing those are the output tube coupling caps which are extra important because if they go bad it can take out tubes and output transformers.
Everything else looks original. Replacing coupling caps is a good start but I would definitely budget for some additional recapping in the near future, if the coupling caps were getting leaky I suspect there are a bunch of other caps that aren't far behind!
Coupling caps prevent the DC voltage from a previous amplification stage from being passed to the input of the next stage. If they start to fail ("leak" voltage) the power dissipation of the downstream tube goes up, essentially wasting a bunch of power amplifying nothing. I'm guessing those are the output tube coupling caps which are extra important because if they go bad it can take out tubes and output transformers.
Everything else looks original. Replacing coupling caps is a good start but I would definitely budget for some additional recapping in the near future, if the coupling caps were getting leaky I suspect there are a bunch of other caps that aren't far behind!
Last edited:
escorial
Active Member
Thanks for the info, again there any type of site that shows folks like myself what should be replaced? I do know how to solder and would like to do as much simple stuff as possible prior to taking it in to the shop.
Would a kit like this be a good start?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fisher-KX1...h=item26000a0479:g:WB8AAOSw1SJbeIQY:rk:3:pf:0
Would a kit like this be a good start?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fisher-KX1...h=item26000a0479:g:WB8AAOSw1SJbeIQY:rk:3:pf:0
primosounds
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It looks like the signal caps are really generic and about as cheap as you would want. The electrolytics are reasonable if he is selling you the already cut cans. However if you have to cut the electrolytic cans in your unit that is a lot of messy work. I think you might be able to buy the can caps at AES for a good price that would save you a lot of work trying to restuff the original cans.
primosounds
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Another consideration is the JJ brand can caps, available in different values and in 4 way and 2 way. You need to use a clamp with it or epoxy glue it to the chassis. The solder lugs will usually fit through the existing chassis hole left by the original can cap. I don't like the fact that the original can caps ground to the chassis in various places creating multiple grounds. I always put in a ground bus or star ground to improve the path to ground of all the components. This can remove some low level noise in some units where the connection to ground has built up a little resistance from corrosion on the metal surface.
