Fisher R-20

OK, here are the gut shots of the R20 and some pics of the 50-AZ
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And the 50 AZ

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I don't know how the pics got mixed together. Sorry for any confusion. Here are the rest of the R20 pics.
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If there is anything specifically that you want me to look for while I've got the chassis out, just let me know.
 
Jered, I was expecting to see something like this on your R-20 but I don't. (from my 1958 TA-500):

SelectorVolume-1.jpg


It is an extra potentiometer to allow the TA-500 to be easily modified to control the volume on two separate channels. There was no provision for a balance control, however; you'd just have to adjust the volume of your outboard pre-amp (PR-66, 30-C, etc.). It wasn't the most sophisticated approach. There is also an outer ring "Loudness Contour" switch on the TA-500's volume control which accounts for the concentrated complexity.

Clearly, though, your volume control (the one in the middle, right?) is just a single potentiometer. I don't see anything under the hood that would indicate the presence of a second channel pre-amp.

How does it compare with your R-20, Sam?
 
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Didn't bring it up because he said it is not working and is only a chassis, but he also gave me a Fisher 50 AZ. Not sure what's wrong with it. I haven't even tested the tubes yet, but damn is it heavy.
In all honesty, you really out to start a separate thread on this one. The is one of Fisher's all-time legendary amps and will probably create quite a stir among AK's Fisher community. Title the thread "Free Fisher 50-AZ" and watch it explode.
 
Jered, I was expecting to see something like this on your R-20 but I don't. (from my 1958 TA-500):

SelectorVolume-1.jpg


It is an extra potentiometer to allow the TA-500 to be easily modified to control the volume on two separate channels. There was no provision for a balance control, however; you'd just have to adjust the volume of your outboard pre-amp (PR-66, 30-C, etc.). It wasn't the most sophisticated approach. There is also an outer ring "Loudness Contour" switch on the TA-500's volume control which accounts for the concentrated complexity.

Clearly, though, your volume control (the one in the middle, right?) is just a single potentiometer. I don't see anything under the hood that would indicate the presence of a second channel pre-amp.

How does it compare with your R-20, Sam?

I'll have to pull my R-20 back out for a look, I didn't take any underside shots. It's close to the top of my recap list, anyway.

In all honesty, you really out to start a separate thread on this one. The is one of Fisher's all-time legendary amps and will probably create quite a stir among AK's Fisher community. Title the thread "Free Fisher 50-AZ" and watch it explode.

Hell, title a thread "Free Mullard EL-37s" and watch it explode. The combination of the two isn't quite up with Teleking's Marantz 9 rescue, but it's not too far off.
 
In all honesty, you really out to start a separate thread on this one. The is one of Fisher's all-time legendary amps and will probably create quite a stir among AK's Fisher community. Title the thread "Free Fisher 50-AZ" and watch it explode.

LOL! OK, I might do that. Thanks for all of your help guys.
 
I just picked up a Fisher Medallist 2. It is missing the speaker assembly. Can someone send me a picture of the speaker assembly. I will have to build one. The unit is in great shape otherwise.
 

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If the Tweeter and Mid are still on the front panel, all you need is a 12" or 15" Jensen Woofer(Depending on cutout) . Try EBAY for a P12 or P15. If it's out of a FISHER, even better. (Measure directly across the middle from screw to screw. Should be between 1/2" to 1" larger than the cone diameter). Alternatively you could order/purchase a NEW JENSEN P12N or P15N.

This is a pic of the speakers in AK'er Relaximus C-800 Contemporary (Same speakers, different mounting). Your Woofer Will fire towards the floor. Mount the tweeter at the top and
the mid directly below it on the side.

This thread will help you with rehabilitation of the main chassis...... https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...erience-here-any-hints-service-manual.780922/

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Thanks for the photo.
The front panel on mine is missing … so no tweeter, mid or panel.
I was wondering what the front speaker panel looks like so I can make a new panel and attach a
tweeter and mid ….
also what size tweeter and mid ?
The cut out for the woofer is still in the bottom of the cabinet …. opening is about 13 1/4 inches so 15 inch woofer?
 
12" woofer. I see 4 screw holes for the speaker frame. The Mid is 8" and the Tweeter is 3". All dome Jensens. But you can use what you want for the Mid and tweet. The baffle is sheet of 3/4" plywood held in by cleats cross drilled and screwed into the edge of the baffle and the body panels. The Grille Cloth is adhered to the baffle plate and stapled along the back edge. The speakers are attached on the back side of the baffle.
 
Thanks ….
what positioning and diameter should the holes in the baffle sheet be for the 8 inch mid and 3 inch tweeter?
Also, any model recommendation for a Jensen 12 inch woofer?
 
Measure the cone diameter on the mid and tweeter you want to use. They are oriented vertically just like the contemporary in the pic above. See post 31 for woofer choices. I don't have any measurements for how far off each side (top, bottom, right side) they are. Eyeball it.
 
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