Discussion in 'Fisher' started by cbottorff, Feb 14, 2010.
Fisher RS-1030 Stereo Receiver Pics
Hello Everyone! This is my first post and you will being seeing more of me when I have time to post.
I received a Fisher RS-1022 for FREE a few weeks ago. New speaker fuses and it works and sounds great. The only thing wrong is a few of the bulbs are burnt out. I just bought some from a guy tonight, once I get them I will post some pix.
I can't believe it's only 22 WPC, it can push my Pioneer speakers pretty hard, comes close to my SA-1050 Pioneer Int Amp. I think this sounds just as good if not just slightly better, I'm watching a pair of Fisher speakers and a casette deck. The brand has sure gained my respect.
Just curious, what years was the 1022 produced?
In post #40 yrly says:
> In regards to the Fisher RS-1080, the THD specs were
> updated in a later brouchure about that model,
> additionally a 4 ohm power spec was provided.
I have the 4 ohm load information for all the European models and so presume that this same information applies to all the same North American models as well. If my educated guess is correct, the only internal difference(s) at that point in time (the 1977-1981 era) between the North American and the European models is additional fusing for transformer secondary windings and the user selectable multiple voltage / frequency power transformer primary provision of 110V/220V and 50Hz/60Hz operation. As for THD improvement, all manufacturers were and are constantly improving their designs, the Fisher service manuals themselves are very keen and immediate to point this fact out. But I'm sure you know this.
> I own 3 Fisher RS-1060s (one still in the original box)
> and two RS-1080s. Highly under rated receivers that will
> hold their own against some of the better stuff.
One idea that I have to improve / re-engineer a Fisher RS-1060 or RS-1080 is to extend the back of the receiver another eight to ten to twelve inches and add another power supply transformer and capacitors for "dual mono" operation.
I've been collecting tons of pictures of receivers and carefully studying their internal construction to see which makes and models' mechanical construction will allow the removal of the back panel with the removal and replacement of longer / larger side chassis rails and rear chassis deck(s) to allow (much) larger power supplies and power device heat sinks to be mounted.
The mechanical exploded view(s) in service manuals are very helpful showing which receivers can be most easily re-engineered in this fashion without cosmetically destroying the receiver or making a lot of other changes to the other internal portions. For instance:
Dimensions H x W x D (Inches) .................... 7-3/8" x 23-3/4" x 16-15/16"
Dimensions H x W x D (Inches) .................... 7-3/8" x 23-3/4" x 18-9/16"
The height and width are the same, but wait, what is this difference in depth? These subtle size differences are not visible to the casual observer unless you have both receivers sitting side by side or you have been carefully comparing dimensions in pictures and the service manuals as I have.
The RS-1080 is slightly more than an inch and a half longer than the RS-1060. I'm just carrying this extension on a bigger and better conclusion, and these particular Fishers being already about 6 inches wider than they are deep, by altering their dimensions to be approximately 6 inches deeper than they are wide doesn't create a strange or unusual dimensional footprint either.
I already had this idea firmly in mind for some time when the final icing on the cake came as I stumbled upon these pictures of a Fisher RS-1080 being aggressively serviced and restored when having it's power amplifier heatsink and driver board assemblies removed, serviced and then reinstalled while still remaining structurally intact. The next step is remove perhaps a dozen or more screws, unsolder and disconnect some wires and drop the old rear deck out to swap in a new one. All that is necessary is to fabricate longer and larger rail(s) and deck(s) to insert the power supply(ies) and amplifier(s) of your dream(s). Finally, the longer top and bottom covers are just so much piecemeal.
Some 1600x1200 res "heart attack" pics to follow.
Said RS-1080 restoration pics. There are 16 pics total. I'm only posting 3 for now.
Very commendable work you're doing for the Fisher fans :thmbsp:.
I found a Fisher RS-2003 in the weeds along a trail over 10yrs ago. The output ICs are both bad and a few other small components. I have'nt bought the replacement ICs yet because I can't Identify one of the diodes (D17) that is physically broken. I had a thread going a while back for it. Some of the pics are gone from it though.
Mayhap the service manual can give more info on this diode thing so I can finish the fix?
Here's my RS-2003 the wife bought me last week. Plays pretty decent. Still have to get a bulb. AND the Manuals...
I was wondering if you could take a look inside your RS-2003? If you get a chance, see if there are wierd brown diodes (D17,18,19,20) on the power amp board. Mine has them, but I saw one on e-bay that didn't. I haven't been able to find a replacement for one of mine, maybe there is a way around using them if some came without? Thanks
The Power amp board parts D17,18,19,20 according to the Service manual are varistors with designation SV-03. Mine has them.
Maybe MTF, Echowars, or Avionic might have a substitute as I couldn't find anything on them except @ www.bdent.com. They have 4 SANKEN's @ Nine and 1/2bucks each.
I ran it thru NTE and came up with NTE 605A. you may have to go that way if you can't find anything else.
EDIT: NTE605A has been discontinued. So MTF, Echowars, and Avionic would be only hope for substitute on original.
Thanks alot Larry! I'll certainly check it out. I wonder why some didn't use them :scratch2:.
Don't know. But looking at the board drawings in my S.M. the diodes are tied to the STK modules @ pins 3 and 8. I would think they they are possibly part of the BIAS circuit for the STK Modules, or a voltage regulation of some sort.
Dear Fisher experts, has anybody happened to save these manuals? I've just got RS-1058 that needs DC adjustment, but the link above is expired. May I ask you to upload somewhere RS-1058 service manual or at least a page with idle current/DC offset adjustment? Thank you so much in advance!
And, of course, thank you cbottorff for aggregating and sharing this hard-to-find specs and manuals!
RS 2004-A Find
Good Day Cbottorff: Thank you for all you work in this area. I just picked up a very clean RS 2004-A today at Goodwill for $10. I know from reading up on it that the 1000 series is better, but it's my first vintage Fisher after all.
Do you have a service manual to the 2004-A or 2004 that I could link to? My unit sounds great, but I do need to redo all the lights and I may find that I want to replace some things once I open her up.
This thread was started in February, and predates the beginning of the Fisher Forum by several months. I'm glad someone posted in it and brought it back to the front page and to my attention.
I think the great work done here by cbottorff definitely deserves "sticky" status.:tresbon:
The link to the RS-1058 manual doesn´t work anymore... :-( . Has anyone got a new link ?
since two days i am the owner of a RS-1058 with some minor problems...
I'm new to this forum. I have an rs-1022 receiver and I would like to know if this receiver can drive my 300 watt max output Cerwin-Vega speakers without damaging amp and/or speakers. Thanks! Sean
There's really no easy answer to that question. Any time you turn any amp/speaker combo to full volume, which is the question I assume you're asking, something is frequently at risk.
The simplest answer is that you need to know how low the impedance of your speakers will dip at the lowest point. The impedance of every speaker swings from well above "8 ohms" to well below, at different frequency ranges. Then you need to know if the amp can handle that impedance at full output.
Or you can simply not run the volume at any level where there's any audible distortion.
If, on the other hand, you're just asking if you can use those speakers and that receiver, and you aren't actually trying to blow the windows out, then, sure, they'll work just fine together. :yes:
First of all, thank you for the reply. I greatly appreciate it. I won't be listening to my records with the volume on 10!!! I intend on several more years of musical bliss! I know you stated the impedance swings back and forth due to the AC signal, but how do I gauge where it is safe to turn the volume up to or should I just keep the volume slightly lower than where the sound would begin to distort as you've alluded to?:scratch2:
Well, the "damage" has two parts, your equipment, and your ears.
If you're listening at a high enough volume that you would have to really shout to be heard over the music, then you're probably causing cumulative, permanent damage to your hearing. Whether or not you're even approaching the limits of your gear.
There's no way to give a black and white answer without the specifications from your exact equipment, but audible distortion from the speakers is always bad. Wherever the volume is when you can hear thing start to get bad, back it off from there and stay away from those levels.
:bash:Ahhhh! Just now scrolled down to find this thread! I have had the good fortune to acquire an RS-1058 that well, is a little worse for the wear. But all is not lost, I can replace power cord, blow out cobwebs. Have located the fuses, nothing appears burnt, no odors other than it was sitting outdoors. So just posted in solid state thread about finding the date tag (7707) assuming a July 1977 build date here. So as been asked by earlier posters.....schematics??
Thanks for your work:thmbsp:
I found a thread in the Digital doc's forum in which the original poster of this thread has put the manual project on hold as of Sept 2010.
Pertinent part quoted.
Recommend moderator lock this one down with a note on the 1st post.
Separate names with a comma.