Fisher RS2010 NEED HELP

DJ Ricky D

New Member
Hello all, My name is rick and I'm new here to the forums. I have visited several times because of your fisher section. I am in LOVE with my fisher rs2010!! My dad bought this receiver about 15 to 20 years ago and had it in his house for many years. One day he decided to store it away and use another fisher that he also has. I finally grew a set and asked him if he would give me the rs2010 and he agreed!!! So, now the fisher is mine!!

Here is my problem though. I use the receiver to run my studio speakers in my garage where I practice my DJ skills on a daily basis. It has worked without fail for about 5 years and is so powerful I was thinking of getting bigger studio speakers to match the power of the fisher. A few weeks ago I turned on the unit and it smoked out of the top. Scarred as hell i shut it off and unplugged EVERYTHING!!! Nothing else in my system was damaged except for the fisher. I have gone to 2 local tv and radio repair shops and both have told me to let it go. It was not worth fixing. Maybe to them it's not, but to me it means the world!! My pops gave me this receiver and it has too much sentimental value to let it die.

I uncovered the unit myself and saw where the burnt piece was. But, I'm a car mechanic, not a stereo expert!! So this all looks like alien like to me!! I am good with replacing stuff and want to repair the unit myself if I can find the parts and get some help from some of the experts here. So, is there anyone here willing to help a young guy out and try to help me fix this unit? I hate seeing it in the garage sitting there. I feel like it's saying to me "help me" Any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated!! I can post pics of anything you need to help figure out the problem.


Thanks in advance!!!
 
How the hell can we deny "LOVE"? :smlove:

Your assignment, should you accept it.......

UNPLUG EVERYTHING FROM THE BACK! Put the plug in a Baggie and TAPE IT SHUT!

Then goe into your profile and add your City and State so we know where you are (somewhat). Who knows, you may be down the street from another FISHER FAN or AK'er who would be willing to help you face to face.

Search Dim Bulb Tester, and build one. This will help save your gear should you mess up and install something backwards or wrong. It's basically a lightbulb in series with a plug and an outlet.

Put the unit on a table you can use to dis-assemble it on.
Take off the top and bottom. Use Egg cartons to put the screws in. Keep the groupings separate. Get a copy fo the Service Manual. You will most likely have to buy one. Well worth the $$. Don't cheap out with the *bay copies. The schematics are usually poor to fair. I recommend www.stereomanuals.com. His reproductions are 99 of 100 times better than the originals. No affiliation, very satisfied customer.

Now Take pictures of the following.
1.) Overall TOP.
2.) Overall Bottom
3.) Close up of the area where the smoke came from.
4.) If it has separate Power supply board, take pictures of that.

You will need the following tools to start.
H-D=Home Depot...RS=RadioShack, Mou=Mouser, GC=Guitar Center
1.) A digital Multi-Meter with DIODE Function.
2.) Mini Clips for the Meter. (They WILL be Used)
3.) Small needlenose, side cutters or Diagonals, Small Screwdrvers,
4.) Soldering Iron, Solder Sucker, Solder(Rosin Core for electronics). H-D or RS)
5.) 1 can of CRC QD Electronics Cleaner, and 1 can of CRC Contact Cleaner. (H-D)
6.) 1 can each of De-Oxit D-5 and F-5 (GC)

Miscellaneous materials.
1.) Soldering Flux (optional) (RS)
2.) Heatshrink tubing (Multiple sizes) (H-D,RS)
3.) Silicone Heatsink grease. (RS)


Take the pictures and get the manual 1st. While waiting for the manual to arrive, Remove the Front face, Knobs. Clean the faceplate, knobs. Set Aside. Using the Contact Cleaner, De-Oxit, and Faderlube, spray and exercise ALL of the POTS, switches, sliders on the front. Read the sticky in the General Audio Forum titled "De-Oxit for Dummies". When you have ALL the switches, and pots,etc. clean....put the front face back on. Now clean all the RCA Connectors and regular connections on the back panel.

AFTER it's clean, and you now have the manual, study the manual and identify the burned parts. They will be identified on the schematic, and parts list. You will need to scan the schematic, board drawings, and the parts list.

DO NOT REMOVE ANY PARTS UNLESS YOU ARE INSTRUCTED TO REMOVE THEM. DON'T GET AHEAD OF THE TECH/PERSON HELPING YOU. We'll get you thru it, and it'll work a lot better than it has in the last 5 years. Sonically it won't change much but IT WILL be more reliable and last until you lose your hair or it's all gray, whichever comes 1st.

How long it takes depends on a few things.
1.) Getting the manual as soon as possible.
2.) How involved you want to get with the repairs. A total recap is recommended now as the RS2010 is 30 years old now. The caps are beyond their recommended shelf life by 10 years.
3.) Your willingness to follow directions.
4.) Not plugging the unit in unless instructed to.
3.) Your skill level. Knowing how to solder and de-solder is a must. If you have some old circuit boards that are scrap, practice on them and remove and install the parts on them.

1st PICTURE's.
2nd Manual
3rd Dim Bulb Tester
4th CLEAN the switches, Potentiometers(POTS), Sliders (Equalizers), Jacks, plugs, RCA Connections on back. Vacuum and brush the boards of dust and grime.
5th Clean and Wash FACEPLATE and KNOBS.

By that time we should know basically what went wrong and should be able to set you on the path to a fix.
It's NOT gonna cost $100 in parts. In caps maybe less than $30. If the STK modules are involved then the costs go up or WAY UP depending on which ones they are. OR they may be NLA(Slight chance). But you have to make a commitment to learn about the unit and to fix it. Don't expect immediate answers all the tme to any questions. Some of us are retired, some work, and we can't be on all the time. Figure 12 hours but no more than 24.

GOOD LUCK.
This post will self destruct in 5 seconds........................



Larry
 
I just picked up one of these bad boys today..not a bad sounding receiver at all. They arent overly complicated, just take good pictures of the burnt component and innards so we can get an idea of what you are workin with here.
 
Thank you guys so much!! I will start going down the list today. I am very comitted and willing to put in the time and money to get this right the first time. Thanks again. And away we go!!!!
 
Here are the pics you guys asked for. I did as you said. Updated my profile, bagged the cord and taped it, removed the top and bottom covers and snapped some pics of the entire unit. If those pics are not good enough let me know, I can snap some more.

As for the tools I should have everything. I have the screw drivers, diagonal cutters, small needle nose, soldering iron, solder, and as for the multi meeter, I have a fluke 23 series 2. Not sure if that has the diode function as I only used it for voltage checks on cars. I can snap a pic of that if you need to see it.

I'm going tomorrow to get the crc qd electronics cleaner, contact cleaner, de-oxit d-5, f-5, heatshrink tubing, silicone heatsink grease, and a solder sucker.

As for the manual, the website you suggested did not have the manual for the rs2010. So I googled it and found this site http://www.servicemanuals.net/ServiceManual/FISHER/rs2010/pos1/results.aspx
Let me know if I can download this one. If not maybe another suggestion of where to get the manual.

I will build the dim bulb tester this weekend if I don't run out of time as I have a lot of work on my car this weekend.

Thanks again guys for helping me out. The excitement of getting the fisher going again is worth the wait!! I will continue to follow the rest of the directions here and hope you get back to me about the other stuff.

Thanks, Rick
 

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Hooboy, it ROASTED and toasted the amp board good. THE LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE Amps are both on the same board, MIRROR IMAGED. BUT what caused it to die like this? Power supply? bad cap upstream? Shorted transistors? Won't know for a while.

The manual from Stereomanuals.net is OK.

This is gonna be really tricky to repair if the traces on the underside of the board are toast.

The easiest and safest thing right now to do with the amp to possibly repair it would be to try and locate a RS-2010 with a good amp board that can become a donor, or find another one and(this is gonna hurt) use yours as a donor.

Go ahead and do what was setup in previous post. We might get lucky and get one of the Heavy Hitters to drop in and take a look and see what he thinks.

I need some pictures of the underside of the AMP board. DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES. Make slack from loosening the tiedowns on the wirelooms, etc. Carefully pull the wires TO THE AMP BOARD. Unscrew the STK 0105 Modules from the heatsink, then unscrew the heatsink from the back panel. Don't forget the thermistors just to the right and left of the STK's (double brown wires with a yellow bulb looking thing on the end. When all the wires are slacked, then remove the screws holding down the board and lift up and get it to flip over. It may not all the way. Try and get it to flip with the STK's on TOP. Then take a picture or two from different angles of the backside of the board. That will tell us whether it's gonna be possible or not to fix without replacing the board. It doesn't look good from the top, but we'll cross that bridge when we get to it.
Larry
 
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Ok. Got the service manual thanks to montecarlossfan here on AK. Thank you very much sir!!

I'm ok with a donor for MY fisher!! LOL. I'm kidding. My pops might not know the difference if he ever saw it again. I would much rather get this one repaired with a donor but when it comes down to it, whatever it takes to get it back up and running. Just in case he ever asks for it back. And before anyone asks, yes he knows it burnt. He was the first to open the top to look into it and recommended the two shops I took it to. This would kinda be a surprise to him if we get it fixed. He thinks its dead.

So, back to the task at hand. Here are the pics of the bottom like you asked. I pointed to the area with a pen. Not sure if the pics are good enough. Let me know and I can take more.
 

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I worked on one of these once. I'd be willing to bet that nothing was bad downline and the STK fried then took the board with it. The heatsink compound they used seems to dry up, heat is the enemy. Plus that thing is awfully dirty inside. The one I fixed had been dead shorted and blew the traces of the board where they soldered into the STK but the amp board was unharmed by some stroke of luck. I basically had to jumper wire to the new STK pack on a few and she came to life. Whether or not you have a source for the STK which is surely toasted I don't know. I ordered mine from MAT Electronics back in the day but they have a $25 minimum order.
 
I hope you guys haven't forgot about me. I am still cleaning all the switches and stuff and waiting for further instruction. Thanks guys.
 
Take out BOTH STK MODULES. If they aren't socketed, you'll need to de-solder them. Once you get them out, clean up the soldered areas de-soldering all of the old solder, and then clean up the area. DO NOT REMOVE ANYTHING ELSE until MontecarloSS OK's it. You will be working with hi voltages so NO JEWELRY on the HANDS, WRISTS, ARMS. No Hanging Chains, etc. On your Voltmeter, Tape up or put heatshrink on the leads all the way to the ends leaving just enough to touch a lead and be insulated, or if you slip.

Use some 91% alcohol and toothbrush to clean up the top side of the board where burned up. Other than that don't do anything else on the board.

Larry
 
Hard to say, unfortunately a lot of times you miss the reply emails or the spam filters catch them and no one responds as a result.

I remember working on the 2010 and the guy I fixed it for blew it again by somehow clipping it trying to run some midi out of his computer. He didn't want to mess around I was tempted to try and buy it but the board was so messed up it would have been a serious pain to replace the STKs again, I ended up losing touch with the guy I fixed it for when he went to a different college.

The 10XX series was always better built anyway. I almost sold one of my 20XXers last week but ended up selling a Marantz 2238b and Pioneer SX990 instead (not that I'm thinning out my collection, it was to hook up a friend who just didn't know what he wanted).
 
I was all into this thread, and then it died! Oh well.
Found a RS-2010 for sale locally. Looks very clean and well preserved. Good description included. Noted in the ad indicates none of the meters are working, even after it was diagnosed and a fix attempted. Are the meters on these a weak point and/or are they repairable?
 
I was all into this thread, and then it died! Oh well.
Found a RS-2010 for sale locally. Looks very clean and well preserved. Good description included. Noted in the ad indicates none of the meters are working, even after it was diagnosed and a fix attempted. Are the meters on these a weak point and/or are they repairable?

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/project-fisher-rs-2010.855391/

After a rebuild... I cannot say enough good things about this set. Depends on how handy you are. If not handy I would pass... if you can rebuild, I would encourage you.
 
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/project-fisher-rs-2010.855391/

After a rebuild... I cannot say enough good things about this set. Depends on how handy you are. If not handy I would pass... if you can rebuild, I would encourage you.
Thanks for the link. I'll definitely read it through. As for doing this work myself, that's out of the question. Any thoughts on why none of the meters would be working or what it would take to correct? According to the ad everything else is working, (currently).
 
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