Pound for pound and with a chassis of the same or similar size, a receiver obviously is more complicated than an integrated or straight amp. You have in the same space an integrated amplifier with an added tuner and after mid 1961 a multiplexer. The amplifier's of the x101-B, 101-C and the 400 would be roughly similar except for the output tubes, and the bias circuit. They all put out btwn 25 and 35watts. The 101's use a cathode bias where the 400 uses a fixed bias. The 7868 and 7591 tubes are basically the same tube with different bases. However due to the added tuner and multiplexer circuits there will be compromises to the Amplifier circuits in the 400. Not much, but the 101B & C will outperform it in most catagories. The 400 is no slouch by any means. But any integrated amp vs. a receiver of comparable wattage will beat the receiver most every time. Receivers are more for people who don't like to mess with separate components. I'm one of them. The x-101-B I do have is a nicely built amp, but as I've had receivers all my life, I'm used to them and their layout. With the X-101-B, and a KM-60, I have to make myself work to make any adjustments rather than by feel. But I've only had the X-101-B a few months.
In any event it's what you want. If you want a 25-35W integrated, the X-101-B & C models will serve you well. They are fairly simple (compared to the X-202's) and use the 7591 tube. The X-101 uses 7189/EL84 type tube. The X-101 is about a 15-20w system. None of the X-101 models have the bells and whistles of the 202's. But they ALL sound very good and comparable to most H.H. Scott, Mac, Marantz, Sherwood, and other brands.
The X-101-B I got on Bartertown was priced @ $400. I contacted the seller and asked if he would sell it without the tubes and for how much. He took off $150. and the deal was set. I ended up purchasing new tubes from Jim McShane (4-Tungsol ReIssue 7591's, Sovtek GZ34/5AR4, 4-Tungsol 12ax7 and 2-SOVTEK 12ax7LPS(PHONO)). Just the 7591's took up 90% of the reduction in selling price. Oh well. New Hayseed Hamfest Can Caps, new lytics and films underneath, a few resistors, Cathode resistors, screen Safety resistors, Bias set, and AC BALANCE Set (this is actually the Phase Inverter adjustment.) I have a A-B switch box so the 101 is hooked up on "A" with my rebuilt 400 on "B" and they are quite even pushing KLH-17's. The 101 does have 2 sets of Mag phono jacks where the 400 has one. Which is a plus. The 101 has a pair of level controls on the upper row that is for the phono level. Leave it @ max. and use the Volume control to set volume. This is a minus as it's another link/joint in the signal path. The next Minus that is a non issue today is the separation control. Leave it @ max stereo. It could be disconnected and hardwired but historically accurate is better. The 3rd minus is the REMOTE CONTROL dummy plug. A dual control wired remote (very very very rare) was plugged in and you could adjust the volume from the comfort of your seat. But today, it's another joint in the signal path. Some guys wire it the leads directly to the volume control, bypassing the dummy plug. If you have the remote, leaving it hooked up is up to you.
To actually get what you want, what you need to do is to audition each contestant. If you are not a DIY and are on a budget, tend toward units that are working on both channels. Take a pair of headphones, as the speakers there and the room it's in will invariably be different from your setup and WILL sound different. The headphones solve the problem. Listen to your current setup on the phones about a week before you start looking about 2 hours a day, low volume so you don't hurt your ears. Then when you go plug in the headphones and check them out. Before you go, call and ask if they have a turntable or tape deck attached. Bring a LP or a tpe you like and audition it on the unit. This will give you a very good idea what it will sound like at home. But DO listen to each unit thru the speakers also.
In the end what you do get is up to you. If all you are doing is listening to LP's and Tape, then an integrated is about ideal. You could go with a straight preamp (400-C to CX2) and 2 amps, but you get into more chassis' and more joints and cables sitting all over. If you listen to FM or DX AM, you can get a tuner of your choice.
Honestly, don't just zero in on FISHER unless you love the aesthetics too. They tend to be plain in a classic way, with a logical layout. The 101-C started the 2 tone front end for FISHER. Later models tended to look somewhat like their receivers (1965-1969/70). They tend to be built very well, German engineered, with German parts (caps and resistors) which didn't last as well as was hoped. But this was not just FISHER Most of the manufacturers had similar parts and problems. Mac & Marantz tended to have less problems overall, but their problems were more involved.
Larry