Fisher X-1000 restore hold my hand

This is different then. If shorting the balance control did NOT produce any sound from the right channel, then the problem is FORWARD of that point going into the right channel power amplifier circuit.

Dave
 
I went in and unsoldered everything connected to C51. Also pins 1,2,3,4 on V4. I replaced all the resistors and caps connected to pins 1,2,3,4 of V4. Turned her on and still no sound from right channel.

Next I chopsticked the heck out of this unit. I was about to give up when I chop sticked the connections to low filter. I heard a slight static very slight. Hmmmmm I toggled the low filter switch back and forth and now I have sound from the right channel.

I must not get excited because I know there is a deeper issue somewhere inside the Fisher X-1000

At lest for now everything is working good. I bought some Electro Harmonix El34 they were cheap at $20 a piece. Not the Fat bottle ones which I loved but the regular skinnies from Russia. I'm going to bias and put this into specs and see what happens.

Thank you all for taking the time to help me out I always had a passion for working on electronics but never had the resources to get started. This website and you wonderful people made it possible for me to start living out my dream. Thanks a million.
 
These new tubes :crazy: the lowest I can bias is one channel 0.88 and the other channel 0.97

Im scared to try the headphone jack :eek:
 
I plugged in the headphones and nothing happened. The music just kept playing out of the house speakers. No sound in the headphones.

When I was doing the restoration years back I never got around to installing the inrush current limiter. I'm going to do that now. I just want to make sure I'm connecting it right.

The current limiter attaches to one leg of the switch and the lead connecting to the black wire of the power transformer correct?

So if I trace the lead from the transformer to the switch could I just unsolder the lead from the switch and connect the current limiter in between the lead and the switch?
 
Your understanding is correct about the current limiter installation. Install it in the lead from the switch that connects to one of the black power transformer leads. The thread you referenced is anything but a stock X-1000 but rather, an all out re-engineering effort to extract maximum possible performance from the available major components on the chassis. If you refer to it, just be aware of that fact.

Is your unit the version with two headphone jacks on the front panel? Or a single headphone jack on the rear panel?

Based on your previous observations, the Low Filter switch circuit would not cause a loss of sound in the right channel. Have you replaced all the mylar coupling caps in the unit? Some of the physically smaller caps of that period are very prone to becoming intermittent over time.

Dave
 
Thanks

My unit has a single headphone jack on the rear panel

Yes I replaced all the mylar caps.

Moving forward Im ready for this

"I would strongly suggest doing some slight modification work in the output stage area, that will include adding separate cathode sampling resistors, and Screen Stability resistors to each tube. It will add significant protection to your output tubes, and simplify the adjustment of your DC bias and balance controls. We can talk you through that work, but for your parts list, you would include four 10 ohm .5 watt metal film resistors, and four 100 ohm .25 watt metal or carbon film resistors." Dave
 
Is the 100 ohm resistor for the stability? would I connect one leg to a certain pin tube and one leg to ground?
 
Yes and No. Cathode Sampling 10 ohm resistors go from pin 8 to the junction of R133 or R134. The Screen stability resistors go between the screen power supply lead on each tube and the tube pin 4. Disconnect the screen supply from each tube and insert a 100ohm resistor on pin 4 of each tube. The free end of the resistor ties to the Screen supply lead removed from each tube @ pin 4.
 
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As for the lack of headphone sound while spkr sounds work. 1.) check continuity of R-144 thru R147 inclusive(27ohm) and R150/R151 (330ohm). 2.) check the integrity of the stereo jack for the headphones. Part's express has replacements. If you should have a Radio shack near by, they should still have them.
 
Please explain cathode sampling resistors. You say go from pin 8 to the junction of R33 R34. Is this done the same way as the screen stability resistors.

Would I take the lead off pin 8 on V11 then connect one end of the 10 ohm resistor to pin 8 and the other end of the resistor to the lead. Then on the next tube V12 I would disconnect the lead and the one leg of R33, or R34 off pin 8. Then connect one leg of the resistor to pin 8 and the other end of the resistor to the lead and one leg of R33, or R34.
 
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Yes. Your drawing is correct as to placement of the resistors. Run the supply from the cap to the closest tube at the daisychained lead and resistor junction.

As for the Cathode Resistors look at the following:

BEFORE Cathode Resistors. This is one channel.
ScreenHunter 08.png

AFTER CATHODE RESISTOR INSTALL. Again this is one channel so repeat on other channel. Not sure if R133-134 get removed or not, so hold off for Dave's input.
X-1000 modded.jpg
 
Ok I have finished I left R33 - R44 in for now. Now my question is how does this simplify the adjustment of your DC bias and balance controls. Im very excited to learn how this works. Thank you.
 
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Your pics aren't showing up now for some odd reason. See if you can reload them (edit the original post and upload the pics directly to the post instead of using a 3rd party host.)
 
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