Fix for Technics SL-1300MK2 Suspension (also SL-1400MK2 and SL-1500MK2)

toups

Well-Known Member
I am trying a fix for the SL-1300MK2 suspension. The Sl-1300MK2 (also SL-1400MK2 and SL-1500MK2) have a suspended turntable. The suspension consists of two parts a metallic spring and a rubber grommet (top hat) that also serves as a spring. The common failure mechanism is that the rubber breaks. Without the spring constant of the rubber, the spring is unable to suspend the table.

The only solution I had previously found involved using the shipping screws to lift and lock the suspension thereby defeating the suspension.

I was able to cut "rubber bands" from the fingers of latex dish washing gloves and use them in place of the rubber top hat.

First image shows broken top hat and spring with new "rubber band." Second shows after addition of washer. Next a slit is made to allow the screw to go throw. Too late tonight for more details.

I guess we shall see if this is a permanent fix or if I need to improvise another variant from some other rubber source.

Initial assembly looks good and is suspended. Now to see if the latex keeps its spring constant over time.
 

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I had the same problem and fixed it with the inner tube of a race bike thanks to a tip from someone on this forum so all credit goes to him.

- cut off a piece of about 12mm form the tube
View media item 9689- insert the end of the spring into the tube
View media item 9691- slide it to the opposite side of were you slid it in.View media item 9692- put the tube over the spring
View media item 9693- now insert the end of the spring into the other side of the tube
- insert the whasher between the spring and the tube
View media item 9694- make a hole in the tube trough the washer
View media item 9695- take the top of the old rubber, cut it clean and insert it over the screw (like it was)
View media item 9703- insert the spring with the rubber tube over it from underneath the chassis into the screw
View media item 9701View media item 9700View media item 9702- tighten the nut
View media item 9704- done.
 
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Great post, better set of pictures than my 2 attempts. Great minds think alike! :)

Inner tube is probably a more robust solution, but my latex glove bands are still working.
 
Thank you,
I'm currently thinking on a good fix for the cueing problem. In a video I saw a fix that used a steel wire to reinforce the part. I want to combine glueing with the steel wire. I just have to figure out if there will be any problem with the excess steel wire sticking out. More soon, I want this puppy fully operational. Mine came without a headshell. Do you happen to now what the original cart is or what would be a good alternative (I'm on a budget)?
 
Clearances are tight so excess wire is a problem. I fixed mine using copper wire and drilling holes in the piece to route the wire. You'll find copper wire much easier to work than steel and strong enough for this.

There is a 3d part available, see http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....300-1400-1500-mk2-series.585566/#post-7706697

Can't seem to find the original thread by SaSi on repairing this that has some other interesting pictures and observations. May look again later.

Headshells are standard Technics headshells so are easy to find and non-OEM versions can be had for $10 on e-bay.

Note this table can also be modified to play 78s. http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/sl-1300-mk2-78-rpm-mod.647136/
 
Thank you,
I'm currently thinking on a good fix for the cueing problem. In a video I saw a fix that used a steel wire to reinforce the part. I want to combine glueing with the steel wire. I just have to figure out if there will be any problem with the excess steel wire sticking out. More soon, I want this puppy fully operational. Mine came without a headshell. Do you happen to now what the original cart is or what would be a good alternative (I'm on a budget)?
What's the diameter of the the inner tube you used?
 
I did the inner tube way and it worked for me, thank you.

Do you guys happen to know what what dust covers fit the 1300 mk2
 
What size tubes you guys using? I want to try this on my SL-QX300, which is kinda different but I should be able to work it out.
 
What size tubes you guys using? I want to try this on my SL-QX300, which is kinda different but I should be able to work it out.

I used the finger from a latex glove, the racing bike tire tube seems about that diameter or a bit larger from the posted pictures. The tube may last longer than the latex glove but my repair is still holding.
 
That's what I did so far, the thumbs in particular ;). I put the springs in the thumbs, didn't wrap it like pictured here. So far I only did it in the back springs, when I did it on all 4 it was too tight and the sub-chassis was pressed up against the top plate, resulting in no float. The suspension is similar but different to what is pictured here. The feet go through the springs to the top plate. The springs are taller, and have a taller "top hat". So far it's better than it was but I might try the bike tube, although I think that would result in it being too tight.
 
Here's what I did for my SL-1310 MK II. And have done with other rubber boot suspensions. As long as all the rubber boot parts are there, if any have rips or starting to come apart, if the parts are still fairly whole. I super glue the ones that have come apart and let that dry. If any holes use electrical or plastic tape to cover them. Them get some liquid tape or the rubber dip for tools at a parts store. Coat the boot and let it dry. Might not look pretty as fresh rubber but it strengthens the boot so it can be used as originally intended. Just put them back on the 1310 & no more platter scrub.
 
Thanks AK, I just did this fix on my SL-1500MK2. Works perfectly, and was easy to do.

I understand that this is a rather old thread, but I could not find anyone who did this fix with an SL-1500MK2 except for your reply to this thread. I own the same table. The original owner had the shipping/transit screws still in place. I removed those only to find out that it was "bottomed out". Springs look good, but 2 of those rubber hats are torn on the top. I can only see this by looking in with a light and a magnifying glass.

I can put the transit screws back in, flip the unit around and remove those 7 screws for the outer base, but am at a loss in how to remove those suspension brackets pictured above so I can repair them.

Is there a risk of anything falling inside of the unit if I were to keep everything on the top/front connected and use the dust cover to hold it up? Did you need to disassemble further to remove those? After reading everything vinylengine had to offer on the site for the manuals -- I'm still not seeing disassembly instructions.

Were yours the same position as the 1300 pictured above? Because mine are much closer to the chassis and board; leaving no room to simply unscrew it and lift them out without further disassembly. All I need to know is "how did you do this with an SL-1500MK2"? I can take pictures and would be VERY appreciative if you could possibly assist me a bit in doing this.
 
@Sun I don't own the turntable any more, but I'll tell you what I can remember. I didn't have any transport screws in place and I supported the turntable upside down, without the lid on and with the platter removed (important!), by placing books under each side to create clearance for the tonearm. From there it was just a lot of screws to remove. With the screws removed I lifted the back plate off and the chassis suspension parts were right there. Wasn't really difficult once I got started. Just make sure to note what size screws go in which holes as you remove them -- I think there are a couple of different sizes.
 
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@Sun I don't own the turntable any more, but I'll tell you what I can remember. I didn't have any transport screws in place and I supported the turntable upside down, without the lid on and with the platter removed (important!), by placing books under each side to create clearance for the tonearm. From there it was just a lot of screws to remove. With the screws removed I lifted the back plate off and the chassis suspension parts were right there. Wasn't really difficult once I got started. Just make sure to note what size screws go in which holes as you remove them -- I think there are a couple of different sizes.

Thank you very much for your help. I really appreciate your input and advice.

Thanks,
Tim
 
Download the service manual from here.
You dont need the transport screws unless you transport :) So remove platter, headshell, tonearm weight, secure the arm and flip it over on the cover.
From there start taking out screws and take pictures while doing... Consider yourself lucky if you found a unit with a working cueing mechanism, that is a pita to repair! Enjoy the deck, I have a few and they are fantastic.
 
I just did the SL 1300 mk2 I am using daily with a small washer behind the top of the spring and a hose washer screwed into the bottom of the spring until the spring gets smaller (Until it hits the bend between the large and small loops). I have ordered 1/2" sorbothane washers and #12 stainless cap washers and will try hanging directly on the sorbothane next. Also have installed 1 1/2" sorbothane washers on the feet.
 
Building on the solutions described above (primarily the Roel Welters one working with the inner tubes of a racing bike) I developed a slightly different one. The original idea didn't work for me. The suspension turned out to be too firm. However, a small modification did the trick for my SL 1410 MK2. I took some pictures during the process.

1. Cut four small 3-4 mm straps from the inner tube
20230222_164238.jpg

2. Take the spring, remove eventual remains from the old rubber caps, en slide the small strap over the spring at the top end
20230222_164400.jpg

3. Slide the small strap one or two rotations along the spring. This takes some effort, but no worries, the rubber straps are very strong
20230222_164529.jpg

4. Span the small strap over the top of the spring and slide it over the opening at the bottom end of the spring
20230222_164615.jpg

5. You can create an opening for the screw by spreading the two sides of the strap

20230222_164647.jpg

6. Reinstall the spring. You may want to experiment here: with/without the metal washer, with/without the rubber top end of the original rubber 'hats', with/without the bottom part of the original rubber hats. In my case the use of the top en bottom end of te original caps delivered the best result. I left the washer out. I mounted the bolts to the max, and than pulled back 3-4 twists to enable the rubber top hat to 'breathe'.
20230222_165253.jpg 20230222_165656.jpg

The SL 1410 MK2 suspension is perfect now. Due to differences in weight (SL 1300 MK2/ SL 1400 MK2) and condition of the springs/rubbers, you probably need to experiment what works best in your case. By sliding the little rubber straps further along the spring, you can also put some additional 'pressure' to the spring.

Good luck!
 
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