Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics sl1300-1400-1500 mk2 series

SDG0407

New Member
Hi,

I wanna share something that might interest some owners of Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk 2 series turntable.
I recently bought a Technics SL 1400 mk2 to find out that it had the know cueing/arm lift problem. After disassembly i measured and 3D scanned the broken part and made a 3D model of it to be 3D printed in plastic.
The 3D model is not 1 tot 1 of the original since I changed some dimensions in order to strengthen it (I don't want it breaking again).

Here you can see the original part:
IMG_0943.jpg


Here is the new 3D printed one:
IMG_0892.jpg


Here is the video of the result.
It has now been holding up for several months and regular playing time.
http://s209.photobucket.com/user/blork1/media/IMG_0947.mp4.html

Also when you disassemble the tonearm beware. The little pin and spring holding the VTA adjustment knob sits in this hole. It is easily lost and can be confussing if you don't know what it is or where it goes:
IMG_0807.jpg


For those interested you can find the model I made here:
http://www.shapeways.com/model/1760114/technics-sl-1400-mk2-cueing-cam-lever.html

Best regards

Ps: the model i made is based on the part of an sl1400 mk2. I am currently not aware of differences in this part on sl1300 mk2 or sl1500 mk2 turntables.
 
That's very cool! Several people have talked about 3D printing those but you actually did it. Congratulations!

If I understand how this works, you've already done the hard part. From this point it's just a matter of calling up the file and sending it to the printer. I'm sure a lot of people here would be interested in getting one of these.

John
 
Neat! I had that on my list of things to do but never got around to it.:tresbon:

Too many projects, too little time.
 
Count me in with a 1300Mk2 with the broken part.

I uploaded it on shapeways (where i printed mine) so you can directly get it from them. The link to order it from them is in my precious post.

Also when you install the steel bushing into the new part make sure it is in the right orientation because the press fitting internal ring is not in the middle of the hole. BE SURE TO DO IT CORRECT because you can only fit it once since it is a tight fit.
 
When i redesigned it i was also wondering who designed this part in the first place. :scratch2: Because it seems designed at the limit of material strength + it is very hard to reach. Two nonos for a quility engineered device.

Also on a side note. Adjusting the vta of the arm is not possible when the cueing lever is up. This is because i beefened up the ring where the original broke. And the lever cant slide past this thicker part when it is engaged.
 
When i redesigned it i was also wondering who designed this part in the first place. :scratch2: Because it seems designed at the limit of material strength + it is very hard to reach. Two nonos for a quility engineered device.

Also on a side note. Adjusting the vta of the arm is not possible when the cueing lever is up. This is because i beefened up the ring where the original broke. And the lever cant slide past this thicker part when it is engaged.

Not sure if your aware of this but once those parts starting failing technics designed a replacement part and it failed as well.
Glad someone got it rite this time.
 
I tried to fix mine twice and while I got it to work, it doesn't work very well. So this is now ordered and thank you!
 
I tried to fix mine twice and while I got it to work, it doesn't work very well. So this is now ordered and thank you!

If you have any questions regarding installation feel free to ask.

I am thinking of writing an installation guide for it so if people are interested i can provide this.
 
I'm really glad someone got to make a 3D model for 3D printing.

Now, mods, delete this thread before MkII prices go through the roof.:D
 
1300/1400/1500Mk2 Cue Reair

A blessing for sure but a curse for those who procrastinated. As if prices weren't already going thru the roof with the Technics lineup especially if they were the auto and semiauto models.
I'm really glad someone got to make a 3D model for 3D printing.

Now, mods, delete this thread before MkII prices go through the roof.:D
 
If you have any questions regarding installation feel free to ask.

I am thinking of writing an installation guide for it so if people are interested i can provide this.

I've had mine apart and done a wire wrap/epoxy repair (about a year ago) so I imagine I can do it again but any tips or guides would be helpful, for me and others.
 
I've had mine apart and done a wire wrap/epoxy repair (about a year ago) so I imagine I can do it again but any tips or guides would be helpful, for me and others.

I am gonna concentrate on the part i designed since dissassembly and assembly of the turntable to reach this part is already explained in other forums. Plus the maintenance documents are also available on the internet.

First thing to do is cut this little edge in the picture below away. It is a remnant of 3d printing tolerances etc:
edge.jpg


Second thing to do is to smoothen the ramps where the knob of the cueing piston rides in. (see the angled ramps in the picture above) The surface finish of the 3D printed part is rougher than the original. This is because of the nature of 3D printing in this material.
Best results i got is with a very light sanding with very fine sand paper + adding graphite (dry lubricant) to the ramps by rubbing on it with a soft pencil (graphite, don't use color pencils:nono:)

Third thing to do is to see how the metal ring will fit in the new part.
The metal ring needs the be press fitted into the new part. Some light sanding of the hole of the new part helps to get it over the ring if there is too much resistance. You can sand the ridge in the hole of the part down a bit too but don't overdo because it keeps everything in place. Remember it just needs to fit snuggly together, too much pressure is not good because it will break, too little is also not good because it will come loose.
BEFORE YOU PRESS FIT THEM TOGETHER MAKE SURE THE GROOVE IN THE RING IS ALIGNED CORRECTLY TO THE RIDGE IN THE PART. Because the groove/ridge is not in the middle. There is no second try when you do it wrong.

Last thing to do is check the clearances when the tonearm is reassembled. Make sure nothing touches the part when you move the tonearm left to right while the cue is either up or down.
 
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