Fixing up a TASCAM 34

[Adinol]

Greetings,

This is my first post.

I just picked up a TASCAM 34, for $80, that needs repair. I was told it only needed a new belt, but I quickly noticed other things that also need fixing. This is my first Reel to Reel repair job and I'm hoping to get some advise from experienced members, letting me know what to expect if I tackle this.

I already read this thread http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/tascam32-pinch-roller-diameter.651096/ on rebuilding a pinch roller for a TASCAM 32. My T 34 definitely needs a pinch roller... please have a look at this...


I wish to rebuild it myself on my own mini lathe, so I'm hoping someone could tell me the correct diameter and also what kid of rubber I should get, and possibly where to get it.


The other problem is that the capstan is not turning. I can't turn it by hand and when I press the PLAY button (after engaging the tension arms) the reels spin, but the capstan does not. And the pinch roller solenoid also does not get a pulse (so the pinch roller does not pinch).

I assume that I do need to change the drive belt and I found a source for it here http://www.daeinconline.com/parts.html

The vertical axis on the supply reel is bent, so I'll need to fix that. Any tips on how?

The PITCH CONTROL pot spins beyond the min/max points, but that's probably just a superficial problem.

I cleaned the heads and tape path just a bit and this is the current condition.






Also, so far I've only removed the top cover and here are some photos that show the condition.




I found the OPERATION/MAINTENANCE manual at manualslib.com for the TASCAM 34B. But I cannot find a good service manual, neither for the 34 nor 34B. So, any help with that would also be appreciated.

In closing, I wish to fix this deck for my 6 y/old kid to teach him how music is recorded. I just feel that nowadays kids don't really understand how some things work because they are growing up with touch screen phones that do everything without providing access to how things work. My kid has his own turn table and a TEAC A-4010S and just loves records and tapes.

Lastly, I appreciate any help/advise and in return I will post descriptions and images of whatever I do, which might help others in the future.

Thank you all in advance...

 

[ph2113]

I just fixed my Tascam 32 last month,the capstan belt I bought on ebay works well ($9.8),the rubber tire of pinch roller made by a local supplier according to my specs(diameter:32.5+_0.5mm,width:13mm,original specs:32mm,W:10mm,made with my original central metal part,$40),there are two kinds of pinch roller,one is black,made of rubber,it's better for the job,more flexible, lower vibration and more friendly for tape,another made of PU(light yellow,see pic),harder but will keep the shape much longer than rubber.
I hope above information might help.



Jack

 

[evoroadster]

For a manual go here:

http://stereomanuals.com/man/rep/tascam/index.htm

or

http://www.vintage-electronics.net/tascam-34-service-manual.aspx

Vintage electronics also sells belts etc for the 34. If you need some unobtanium parts let me know as I have a 34B as a perts donor.

Make sure whatever manual you buy it includes the service portion along with the schematics. Most you will find on the web do not.

 

[oldvinyldude]

Welcome to AudioKarma Adinol:

Rollers can be rebuilt by http://www.terrysrubberrollers.com/ (no affiliation, and honestly, I have not used him, but he has a very good reputation here)

Search threads here for R2R restoration-you will find specific tasks for many models, but the overall strategy is to disassemble, clean and lube all linkages, such as pinch roller linkage, tape lifter linkages, etc. Belt replacement-be wary of belts not made to Teac/Tascam specs-often they will not give acceptable performance, or even allow tape to travel straight across heads, or keep good contact with heads.

Clean all tape path touch points, clean heads, demag heads and guides.

Switches and pots will likely need cleaning with DeOxit (best product out there it seems). Be especially diligent with source/monitor switches-many audio issues arise because of dirty switches there.

When you go to test record/play, be sure you have a good quality tape. TDK, Maxell, Emtec, Scotch (except SSS versions) all goods brands. Off brands like Realistic, are kind of a crap shoot. Any tape brand, however, can suffer if stored poorly (High humidity/heat).

SSS=Sticky Shed Syndrome. Search for that-Certain Scotch (Like Grand Master), and Quantegy tapes had the issue, and they should be considered reel doner tapes-the media itself is not worth fooling with.

Again, a ton of good advice available here-Google is your friend.

Enjoy,
Paul

 

[Adinol]

Thank you all very much for your replies.

Now I need to digest all this information.

I'll keep posting my progress, but I am a slow worker, so this will all take time.

I've read some old informative threads, yesterday, and I'm already having fun.

Many thanks...

 

[Adinol]

I'm planning on having a look at the capstan tomorrow to see why it doesn't move. It seems that it's glued in place, probably by some dried up lubricant. Perhaps someone used the wrong lubricant at some point and it just dried up. Right now it is impossible to make it turn by hand or in any way.

Speaking of lubricants. I actually have some fine graphite lubricant on hand (black paste). Is that at all recommended for any R2R moving parts? (I know that I cant mix lubricants. If I use it I would first completely remove any old residues).

 

[oldvinyldude]

The lubricants used when the machine was new are 20-30 years old now. They were right at the time. Use isopropyl alcohol to clean all hardened/old grease on sliding parts.

On lubricants, I would avoid a graphite lubricant. You don't want any lubricant to wander past it's target. Generally, a good quality grease for sliding parts of the transport, and light machine oil (like sewing machine oil), for motor bearings. Use the minimum to get the job done. Apply with a needle syringe or similar. Never spray lubricants.Wipe away any excess. Apply with a needle syringe or similar. Never spray lubricants into a machine.

 

[Adinol]

I watched a YouTube video that explained to use a heat gun to soften up hard lubricants that make the pinch roller arm stick.

Is the use of a heat gun OK for those purposes?

 

[oldvinyldude]

Applying heat makes things turn/move more easily.

Heat gun is fine-if you don't overdo it. Go slowly at a conservative distance, and if parts get too hot to touch, you are going too heavy.

You can also use PB blaster-but only on transport mechanisms-never on motor shafts. It comes in a spray can, so you will need to spray into a container and use a Q tip or syringe to apply. Use as little as you can. You must avoid having any lubricants or solvents moving beyond their target areas. Never let any solvent get onto rubber/plastic parts, or onto heads and their wiring.

Clean any areas where the blaster product was used thoroughly with alcohol. If you can't get to all surfaces where the product was used-best not to apply at all. Use moderate heat and alcohol only.

The only safe solvents are isopropyl alcohol on metal and plastic, and pinch roller cleaner on rubber parts.

Pinch roller safe products can be found from a few vendors on the web.

 

[dorr]

I've used a hair dryer to soften the hardened grease. I have used it several times with good success.

 

[Adinol]

Thanks for your comments.

Some other priorities are keeping me away from fixing this deck, now. But I will post pictures as I make progress.