FM-100B: Fisher's Best Bang For The FM Buck

dcgillespie

Fisher SA-100 Clone
Subscriber
With a little free time between projects, I was finally able to get my own FM-100B out on the bench for the restoration its never had. It's a pretty little thing that I got from Audiodon well over a year ago, but have never had the time to get to.

The 100B has all the guts and glory of the fabled FM-200B, save the latter's Microtune/AFC feature, front panel level control, and unbalanced 72 ohm antenna option. Oh, and two front panel jewels to indicate when the muting and Microtune feature are activated. But beyond that however, the 100B has an identically performing conventional miniature tube version of the 200B's nuvistor populated Golden Cascode front end, a 5 tube IF strip utilizing 2 amplifier stages and 3 limiter stages just as the 200B does, the same MPX sub-chassis, the same muting feature (sans indicator lamp), and in the later 100B's, the same matrix based FM Automatic switching feature. It even shares the same dial glass with the FM-200B.

Within the Fisher line then, the FM-100B is the Buick, the 200B the Oldsmobile, and the FM-1000, the Cadillac. But when it comes to the basics of receiving the station and decoding FM stereo, the 200B and 1000 can't do it any better than the FM-100B can. They just have more bells and whistles to make for a prettier package. Inside where it counts however, they are all just about the same.

My particular unit had issues from the get-go:

1. The power supply was only producing about 125 vdc for the tuner circuits to operate off of, which was 40 volts low, in spite of a 121 vac line voltage. This was solely due to the selenium rectifier, which was sagging badly. New silicon and 100 ohm dropping resistor resolved that issue. A new AC line bypass cap was also installed as well.

2. The muting feature either didn't work, or was very intermittent. This was primarily due to broken pins on the muting side of the 6DJ8 tube socket that serves both the muting and auto-stereo functions. New pins to replace the broken ones in the existing socket resolved that issue. But there was still occasionally intermittent operation that was not due to the tube socket. This final issue was traced to a lose connection from the factory. It was one of those connections that appeared OK, but when you looked underneath the connection, no solder ever made it to the connection that was lose.

3. The decoupling caps in the matrix switching circuit were shot, making for a very lazy switching between mono and stereo functions. The electrolytic cap associated with the ratio detector was also physically leaking, so all of these components got replaced.

4. The MPX sub-chassis would trigger the stereo lamp, but that's about all it would do. Replacing the usual suspects on that chassis resolved much of that issue. But the worbling and general lack of sensitivity indicated a full alignment was needed. A couple of new tubes and the alignment returned a red hot 1.25 uV for 20 db of quieting at 98 mHz, and 38 db of stereo channel separation. That's about as good as any premium Fisher tuner can get.

5. De-emphasis. This topic has had its fair share of discussion over time, with various reasons offered for the apparent discrepancy of the networks installed, versus the standard for de-emphasis (75 ms).

On the stereo channels, Fisher's original value for R222 and R223 in the MPX section was 22K, which was used in both the FM-100B and 200B. This value provides a time constant of 48 ms within the networks of R222/C225 and R223/C226, which would normally cause an overly bright presentation. But it must be remembered that the 38 kHz sub-carrier filter augments these networks, as does the chassis wiring in conjunction with R224 and R225.

The best way to find out just how effective these networks are, is to simply measure the actual frequency response produced by these networks, without any pre-emphasis added at the transmitter. From a theoretical standpoint, the corner frequency of the ideal 75 ms de-emphasis network is 2122 Hz. Since simple de-emphasis networks produce an attenuation of 6 db per octave, that implies that accurate de-emphasis should produce a response that is down 18 db at 16,976 Hz -- or for all practical purposes, 17 kHz. In measuring the response of my 100B, the left and right channels measured down 21 and 22 db respectively at 17 kHz, which frankly isn't to bad, but does establish that some additional roll off is present.

In researching how others have addressed this, I've found everything from a famous Fisher restoration name recommending to remove the 38 kHz sub-carrier filters and reduce R222/R223 to 16 k (which is simply NUTS), to adding an active de-emphasis section, which is overkill.

The most rational modification I found was from our own Drew Bolce who recommended simply replacing R222/R223 with a value of 18K. This seems quite rational, moving the response in the direction needed, without unduly introducing anymore 38 kHz hash, which the de-emphasis network also helps to remove. In addition to his recommendation, it would also seem reasonable to install high accuracy components at C225/C226 to ensure matched de-emphasis in both channels. I plan to install 18K resistors at R222/R223, and retest the stereo frequency response.

Fisher played with these networks, moving R222/R223 to 27K in their receivers and consoles, which acts to further roll off response over that created by their original value of 22K in that position. This certainly helps to present a smooth FM stereo presentation, which may have been a marketing driven decision. Such a move however required the monophonic de-emphasis network to be adjusted as well, which usually ended up being a 47K/1800 pF network, producing a time constant of 85 ms, and notable roll off as well. Against this, Drew recommends lowering the 47K resistor to 39K, producing a time constant of 70 ms, with circuit wiring adding the remaining roll off. This too is a very reasonable value to use on the mono side if the the stereo networks are modified as he suggests.

In the 100B however, Fisher went temporarily off the reservation with the mono network using a 47K/2200 pF combination, producing a time constant of over 103 ms. In the 200B, they completely lost it with a mono network of 47K/2700 pF for 127 ms! I have no idea what they were thinking.

In any event, I have modified the mono network in my FM-100B by changing the 2200 pF cap to 1500 pF. In conjunction with the original 47K resistor, this produces a time constant of just over 70 ms, allowing for wiring capacitance to take care of the remaining roll off.

With this restoration work, my FM-100B can now hold its own just fine regarding it's reception and stereo decoding performance against the best units Fisher offered. It really is the best FM bang for your Fisher buck!

Pics include:

1. Underside after the work discussed was performed. The original can cap remains at this point, measuring fine with no leakage (current draw), and running cool.

2. Old parts removed.

3. Understated Fisher elegance. It's a sharp performer now!

With all the performance that the 100B brings to the table, I really couldn't want for anything more.

Dave
 

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Excellent writup as always Dave.

Just out of curiosity, what are you using for FM alignment gear ?
 
I actually use different pieces for different procedures. For example I use an HP 8640B RF Generator as a hard reference for 10.70 mHz for initial IF strip work, and for aligning the RF section. It is an analog device (which I like), but has a built in counter making for a very high degree of accuracy. After the IF strip has been peaked from one end to the other at 10.70 mHz, I then use a Sound Technologies ST-1000A in double sweep mode to touchup the bandpass of the IF transformers, but mainly to optimize the ratio detector transformer. I also use it for on tuner alignment of the MPX section, because it has an RF attenuator that will allow adjustment of the MPX section under lower signal strength conditions, which more replicates real world reception conditions. I also have a Fisher 300 MPX generator which is wonderful, but it does not have any ability to attenuate its RF output like the ST-1000A does. Therefore, I primarily use the 300 for out-of-receiver alignment of Fisher MPX sub-chassis -- which is getting a pretty good workout these days!

Thanks for the interest!

Dave
 
Nice write up and somewhat timely for me - I just bought an inexpensive FM100. I wonder how similar the 100 is to the 100B?
 
I forget whether your 100 has a place for the MPX sub-chassis or not -- but if it does, it was for the old MPX-20 Crosby multiplex unit that was never produced because the system of course was not the system that was ultimate approved. Therefore, FM-100s must use an outboard MPX unit to retrieve stereo signals. On the other hand, the 100B was produced with an on-board multiplexer of the approved (GE/Zenith) system, so it can operate as a one piece stereo tuner.

The basic tuner portions of the two units are basically the same, but because of Fisher's rather costly "oops" (betting on the wrong horse), they had to quickly revamp the unit for the approved system, with the resulting model having a "B" added as a suffix to denote the difference.

Dave
 
great write up dave.I run a nice fisher fm100-c in my system with the 50a's/400c pre.My only problem has been station reception which is an antenna issue as we live in a rural area in the mountains 60 miles east of Vancouver.
im putting together a HHscott system at the moment and just picked up a Lt-110b scott tube tuner I will be comparing to the fisher.

hunter
 
Excellent write-up on the 100-B, Dave. And, thanks for making some sense of the de-emphasis.
 
I actually use different pieces for different procedures. For example I use an HP 8640B RF Generator as a hard reference for 10.70 mHz for initial IF strip work, and for aligning the RF section. It is an analog device (which I like), but has a built in counter making for a very high degree of accuracy. After the IF strip has been peaked from one end to the other at 10.70 mHz, I then use a Sound Technologies ST-1000A in double sweep mode to touchup the bandpass of the IF transformers, but mainly to optimize the ratio detector transformer. I also use it for on tuner alignment of the MPX section, because it has an RF attenuator that will allow adjustment of the MPX section under lower signal strength conditions, which more replicates real world reception conditions. I also have a Fisher 300 MPX generator which is wonderful, but it does not have any ability to attenuate its RF output like the ST-1000A does. Therefore, I primarily use the 300 for out-of-receiver alignment of Fisher MPX sub-chassis -- which is getting a pretty good workout these days!

Thanks for the interest!

Dave

Cool. So you use the 8640B as just a fixed frequency and peak the IF strip using the AGC line voltage for a starting point then? I have an 8640B myself. Its a nice generator, but it doesn't give the width of sweep that typical alignment destructions ask for. I can't get that nice IF curve output on the scope. I was considering what I might supplement that with to get a proper sweep response. The ST1000A seems to be a very popular bit of gear for that job.
 
Dave; Thanks for this excellent treatise on the FM-100B. I've got a 35000 series unit I'm doing some upgrades to the power supply, and lytics. Apparently there are 2 DIFFERENT MANUALS. The common one is for the 40001-49999 series. It has a DIODE board and relay setup very similar to the 400 receiver,and the unit you worked on. The other out there does NOT have the Front page, but it listed as the 100B. This one matches what I have here. I'll post a couple of pictures so you can see the differences. Mainly in the upper left corner (front left).

I think I have the FM Mono De-Emphasis network id'ed but could use some help. I believe it's C-63, R65 (Circled in Red on schematic and blue/green in pic.). I've already changed the 22K R222,223; to 18K along with new .047 caps for C221,222. Plan is to put a 39K in the MONO.
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Larry
 
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The early versions of both the 100B and 200B used relay contacts to trigger not only the Stereo Beacon, but also the audio signals between mono and stereo. Later versions still used a relay, but it was much simpler, with the contacts triggering the Stereo Beacon lamp, and the diode matrix circuit that then switches the audio signals.

You have in fact identified the mono signal de-emphasis network components. To achieve a more accurate de-emphasis response, you can either change the R component (R65) to 33K (in this case), OR the C components (C63) to 1600 pF. Either of these approaches works, but don't do both!

Dave
 
I picked up some 33K and 39K resistors at the store. Came home and fired it up 1st to verify everything done so far. It sounded very nice in STEREO, although there is some roll off it's not bad. I put in the 33K resistor, and turned on. NOT GOOD! Mono was overly bright, and Stereo sounded distorted with reverb. Pulled out the 33K and put in a 39K (1/2way btwn 47K and 33K) to see what's going on. The distortion and reverb cleared right up. Overall the FM is Brighter than before I started, and it actually sounds pretty good. 39K is what I use on 400's and 800C's for MONO with 18K for Stereo. No scope so i can't see what's going on, but it does sound clearer, more distinct, and less muffled. It switches mono to stereo as it's supposed to.

I found one of the CAN CAP sections had degraded down to about 26uF, (all 40uF 4 section) so a new one is on order. Once that's in, close it up and send back to owner.

Larry
 
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I am new to the forum and have enjoyed reading the comments of upgrading and restoring the Fisher Tuners and Receivers. I have a Fisher 400 (Serial No.23077L) which i purchased new in the early Sixty's. I never had problems with it and can't remember changing any of the tubes. However, several years ago I upgraded the power supply and replaced various capacitors in the amp section. Now I would like to make the changes in the Multiplex sub assembly but I am confused as to some of the changes that have been recommended. I plan to change R222 and R223 from the current 27K to 18K. as suggested by Drew and to upgrade C225 and C226 as Dave suggested. My questions are: (1) what are the recommended capacitor changes for C225 & 226 -Orange Caps? (2) There is a reference to changing R28 ( on late model schematics) from 47K to 39K. My receiver is not a late model and my R28 is a 3.9K. Which is the resistor that I should change and what should it be changed to? Thanks for your advice.
 
John; Welcome to the Madhouse Some of us REALLY are Nuts! Take the guy who has 14 consoles, 9 of which are FISHER's, plus all the separates, all in a 1000sqft rancher.....OH CRAP that's me. Or Buglegirl who calls her pile of gear her Crapstack....Actually 80% of the stuff she has is really quite nice, and with a basement full(and I DO MEAN FULL) of spares Then there's Steve who apparently has more $$$ than FISHER's and is enthusiastically trying to reverse the ratio's. And finally the Mad Engineer, Dave G. who has taught us more about FISHER GEAR than even Avery Fisher and his Dutchmen knew.

The Late and Early manuals don't use the same numbering on the parts. So R28 on a late model will equate to R-63 on an Early Model. It's still in the same physical spot. The MULTIPLEX UNITS fortunately DO use the same numbering. C210 can be replaced with a 1uf 400v film cap. This can be an AXIAL IC Yellow film cap or a Cornell Dublier DME Radial. They are both small enough physically to fit comfortably. Orange drops tend to be too large physically in and around the Multiplex unit. C225-226 Use DME's. Use the value Dave recommends (I'm having a case of CRAFT or CRS.) I think you'll find that the IC Yellow and the DME's in tight spots are ideal. You can use Orange Drops (O.D.) or whatever large case caps in the wide open spaces as you like. .

Just a word of advise. Starting your own thread is highly advisable, keeping your questions in your own thread, and not getting everyone confused with multiple participants asking different questions and possibly losing your question or answer in the nether regions of the internet. Plus PICTURES are REQUIRED to show off your gear (it also helps us to see whether it's a total virgin , and there have been a few, or has been worked on by a previous owner/Hack). Adding your location to your profile helps you in case a local member that is knowledgable with your unit can possibly help you out.

I'd copy your previous post, and start a new thread and paste it into the thread. Lots of 400 rehab threads, more for Later models, but there are the odd Early model rehab's here and there.





Larry
 
Larry thank you very much for the welcome, info and advice. I will start a new thread and upgrade my profile as recommended. In the meantime forget the meds, food, buy gear; and, don't bump your knees negotiating the consoles.

John
 
Larry, need additional advice. Putting an order in to Mouser. Should I use film resistors and should I bump up the wattage given current smaller sizes? Years ago I started a thread on the tube forum. Don't remember how I did it and I have searched the site for instructions on how to start a thread to no avail. Where and how do you start one?

John
 
The forum software changed last year and had most people flustered for a week or two until they got used to it. On the Forum page, all the way at the top to the right of the "HOME/FORUM/Fisher Forum block, click on the "POST NEW THREAD" box. You'll know what to do from there.

It's not my knees I'm worried about, it's my back. Had a back fusion (L-5 S-1) back in Sept. It's healing but I'm a bit reticent about lifting anything heavier than my 3 year old grandson.

Metal film are fine. No worries about wattage and size. Use the wattage as prescribed. The caps, resistors, etc. today are anywhere from 50% to 80% smaller due to technology. 10 years from now we'll all be using SMD parts or nano tech due to kids pushing technology to the Nth degree. (just Great!!------NOT!!!) I refuse to listen to an implanted chip in my ass, and it becomes obsolete in 2 months and costs more than my house did.
 
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