Garrard 301/401 owners club!

Thanks everyone for chipping in.

I am getting a Garrard 301 very soon. the plinth will be plywood based. I use only a basic hutter rack. So how do I isolate the turntable ?

Like, what are the typical measures Garrard owners take to isolate their turntables ?
 
......



47802428162_c277b25e23_b.jpg



Super clean deck, runs like a charm.

I'm presently working on a plinth and when all is done with, I'll post the final result here and start a thread showing the fruits of my labor.

For now, I thought I would share this wonderful acquisition (straight from the UK).

Cheers.




.....................



I finished the plinth. You can see the work here:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=634197

I want to thank Jeremyjustic for the encouragement. Thanks buddy!




This is my 401:

46938244895_debef471d5_b.jpg


47065119164_dc11b7a8d8_b.jpg


33977230128_c379c55afb_b.jpg



......
 
Last edited:
Ok now you have to let use know what you think about how it sounds!:scratch2: I know people talk about it but can you actually notice the difference between how a LP sounds with an idler drive verses say a belt drive or a direct drive? I can imagine all kinds of differences but it might just be in my head, but I figure even if its all an illusion and it makes me happy that's fine by me.:D
 
Ok now you have to let use know what you think about how it sounds!:scratch2: I know people talk about it but can you actually notice the difference between how a LP sounds with an idler drive verses say a belt drive or a direct drive? I can imagine all kinds of differences but it might just be in my head, but I figure even if its all an illusion and it makes me happy that's fine by me.:D

I really suck at reviewing and I haven't really had a good long listening session yet but, from the limited amount of listening so far, what I can say is that it sounds very much like my Thorens TD124 MK1 (go figure :D). The bass and lower mids are more pronounced, more "solid", cleaner and played with a little more authority as compared to my belt drives (Thorens TD125 MK2 and AR-XB). My belt drives have a more "airy" kind of sound, bass is more mellow, silkier, less "oomph".

I haven't had a chance to compare with a direct drive yet, but from what I can remember, my direct drives (Technics SL1200 II and Pioneer PL-55X) sounded a bit more "clinical" when compared to my belt drives. The direct drives sounded like a "turntable/cd player hybrid" of some sort. That's the impression I got.

Depending on what's on the platter, each type (idler, belt or direct) has their own attributes, I guess. But my personal preference for all-around listening would have to be the idler, no question (for me anyway). It's like it keeps you immersed into what's playing, you don't get tired (or bored). It's an exciting sound.

See? ...... I told you I suck at reviewing! :D

Now, if I can lug this thing (weighing close to 70 lbs) upstairs, I would love to hook it up to my main system and compare it to my Clearaudio Champion. We'll see... :yes:
 
Hi all. Just got my hands on a restored 401 from Loricraft. Terry did a great of restoring the tt and making an amazing looking walnut plinth for it. Everything was superbly packed when the box arrived in Singapore too. I am running the tt with a Jelco 750E 10" arm and Ortofon 2M Black cartridge.

Initial impressions are that the soundstage is much bigger than my Projekt tt (also with 2M Black) and vocals are much fuller with more 'air'.

I was hoping though to get some advice from you guys. There is a significant lack of bass when i play LPs. I've done comparisons with the Projekt and also CD recordings of songs, and, while the LP on Garrard sounds the most musical, it is disctinctly lacking bass.

Also, while vocals are much fuller with greater depth, I cannot seem to get the vocals to focus into the centre of the soundstage. Have ruled out speaker placement cos songs played on CD have the vocals dead on in the centre.

Anyone knows what could be the problem and how i can get my soundstage to "snap into focus"?
 
Hi all. Just got my hands on a restored 401 from Loricraft. Terry did a great of restoring the tt and making an amazing looking walnut plinth for it. Everything was superbly packed when the box arrived in Singapore too. I am running the tt with a Jelco 750E 10" arm and Ortofon 2M Black cartridge.

I'm thinkin the arm might be a bit heavy for the 2M Black which *might* explain some of the problems you're having with the sound. Other than that, and maybe I'm stating the obvious, but make sure everything in the arm/cart combo is set up correctly - cartridge alignment, tracking force and VTA. If the alignment or VTA is off, a line contact stylus like the 2M Black has will sound 'off' - the lack of bass might point to VTA, but if it's off I've found the sound usually becomes 'strained' as well.
 
Thanks for the info muovimies. Since I'm quite clueless about the technicalities involved in setting up a TT, could you explain what you mean when you say the arm might be a bit heavy?

Also, could anyone point me to a guide on how to set and adjust VTA? I'm already using an arc-protractor designed for the 750E arm so my alignment should be close to, if not completely, accurate.
 
Thanks for the info muovimies. Since I'm quite clueless about the technicalities involved in setting up a TT, could you explain what you mean when you say the arm might be a bit heavy?

If the tone arm is heavy (high mass) you will most likely need a cartridge with a stiffer (thicker, if you may) cantilever. The cantilever is that tiny rod sticking out of the cartridge with the stylus (diamond) attached to it at the tip. Think of the cantilever as a spring. The thicker the spring, the more weight is needed to make it "springy" and provide the proper amount of suspension for the needle to ride the groove. If there's too much weight on the spring (cantilever), the spring (cantilever) will collapse. The same principle applies in reverse. If the cantilever is too stiff and the tonearm is too light, there isn't enough weight on the spring to provide proper suspension. All this is commonly referred to as "compliance", a relationship between tonearm and cartridge. You can google it, and yes, it does get scientific and mathematical, but it really is basically what I have tried to describe above.

http://www.theanalogdept.com/cartridge___arm_matching.htm




Also, could anyone point me to a guide on how to set and adjust VTA? I'm already using an arc-protractor designed for the 750E arm so my alignment should be close to, if not completely, accurate.

As for VTA, basically make sure the tonearm is parallel to the platter when you drop the needle on the record. You can then make any fine adjustments by raising or lowewring the tonearm at its base. If it sounds good, let it be.

46938244825_710f5b3a5f_b.jpg




This is a great source of information:

http://www.theanalogdept.com/tonearm_alignment.htm



Good luck.:thmbsp:
 
Last edited:
I am not sure how or why, but i have become a Garrard 301 Owner. From what i can tell its a oil bearing model from the early 60s (serial is 37xxx).

http://1drv.ms/1dobIzA

Its in fresh from the garage condition. A very very neat example, covered in a few years of dust. The arm has had a bit of abuse and if i can figure out what it is and whether its worth the effort i might try and fix it. Its got a shure m95ed/d the stylus is snapped, not sure whether to spend money on a stylus for this cart or not?

Any thoughts on the plinth, its a ply wood suspended...i realise everyone has solid ones now,but is this one likely from the early 60s too?

No strobe around the outside of the platter on mine? Is that normal?

Table works as you would expect, perfect and silent. The grime comes off and underneath is pristine paint and label (those 3 labels with the levers on them).

http://1drv.ms/1bzzaIV

The matt is cracked and finished, but i found a replacement on ebay. So a new mat and a stylus and its ready to go.

I am not sure if i want to go down this path or stick with 70s/80s high end which kinda suits my tastes more...is this garrard really going to sound that much better than the PF800?
 
I am not sure if i want to go down this path or stick with 70s/80s high end which kinda suits my tastes more...is this garrard really going to sound that much better than the PF800?

This is the Garrard 301/401 owners' thread. What do you think we'll say? It's an idler and will have more slam and bass than I think your PF800 has (I love the looks of that unit), but won't be as quiet.
 
I should have been clearer. I was thinking that maybe i need to have $5000 speakers and $5000 amp and discrete phono etc etc etc in order to get the best from it. Would just dropping a 301 into any system instantly make it much better, or this is audiophile, highly technical, high effort mega system only?
 
Keep them both. They're excellent examples of their respective eras. The 301 doesn't demand massive expenditures for new gear. Just put it in your current system and then share your reaction. My guess is you'll be pleasantly surprised.
 
Thanks, if i do that i will need a high end 70s one to make a nice trio...thats not gonna make me popular at home :)

I grabbed an AT10 cart from another table and put it on the arm on this garrard (I dont know what it is, http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=656231).

It seems to have massive headshell weight so i MgIvored a counter weight (only part missing from the table) and played a couple of records. Its not really a side by side test as the yamaha has an AT95E and these carts are quite different.

It plays, it definitely sounds as good as the yamaha, it hasnt been serviced and i didnt want to damage anything so i stopped, i will find a servicing guide and oil it at least before i use it anymore.

Its kinda funky, cos its super dusty, but where i rubbed a bit off its perfect original cond underneath. It plays, looks super old - i am warming to it :)
 
..i will find a servicing guide and oil it at least before i use it anymore.

Its kinda funky, cos its super dusty, but where i rubbed a bit off its perfect original cond underneath. It plays, looks super old - i am warming to it :)

Great. (My question in post #334 should have had a wink after it.)

I think you will enjoy using it, even if you rotate it with your PF800 for a while. If in doubt of what to keep, after a while of switching between the two you will find you end up sticking with one. If that is your PF800, you'll get more than your money back on the 301.
 
Ok i have decided to have a go and bringing this into a properly serviceable condition. http://1drv.ms/1dobIzA

What is the best guide on servicing them?
It has a suspended plinth - stick with this or go solid?
Its grimy on the top from being in storage - but its MINT underneath and when i wipe the grime, labels etc are mint. Actually i am tempted to leave it grimy...whats the best way to clean the original labels without messing up the printing on them?
Mine has no strobe plater, serial 30000 something. What vintage is it likely to be?
 
Last edited:
Maybe start here?

http://www.garrard501.com/faq.html

Try a 301 rebuild or restore search. There's lots of information out there including history and complete step-by-step instructions.

For the time being, keep the suspended plinth while you clean and restore the deck. You can do a different plinth later. No point in taking on too much all at once.

I have a 401, not a 301, but my guess is that cleaning with almost any mild - not abrasive - cleaner will work without doing harm. Do a test under the platter to be sure.

Check to see what the restoration instructions have to say about that.

The 301 is definitely worth some time and effort.
 
Back
Top Bottom