Garrard 301/401 owners club!

Discussion in 'Turntables' started by jeremyjustic, Nov 28, 2011.

  1. Kosinki

    Kosinki AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Location:
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    Firstly, I ordered replacement parts from Perfect Sound in the UK that consisted of: spring package to replace all the springs, idler wheel linkage grommets, new felt washer for spindle and a new 60hz motor pulley from WoodSong Audio. I began by cleaning all the linkages with isopropyl alcohol with a combination of cotton swabs, non-linting swabs and microfiber cloth. After cleaning I coated the linkages in WD40 that i applied with cloth. For areas that required grease I used a spray medium of White Lithium grease. For the oiling points I found that I got the best results with sewing machine oil, especially for the spindle. For the motor bearing I used 3 in 1 specifically for 1/4 horsepower motors and up. Also running and re-oiling the motor over time showed to be an important step. I initially tried 5W30 but was not happy with the results. I used liquid brasso to clean and polish the eddy brake disc and the top of the spindle housing. For cleaning the chassis I used a combination of IPA and warm water on microfibre and cotton swabs.

    Some things that I learned along the way was to always wear gloves when handling the cadmium coated linkages, which are toxic. I decided not to have them replated as I didn't want to go through the process of getting everything re-riveted. I also found that not over tightening things like the motor casing and idler wheel top plate but by just going past finger tightness lead to a more freer and satisfactory result. I'd also recommend ordering spare parts from Perfect Sound; it was an easy purchas and the shipping was very quick. After running the turntable the past couple days I think I might look into getting a new idler wheel, probably from Perfect Sound as well. Hope this was helpful at all to you.
     
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  2. Kosinki

    Kosinki AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    And to clean the platter mat I used unscented dish soap and distilled water.
     
  3. TerribleT

    TerribleT Member

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    66
    Thanks for the reply, Kosinki. You didn't say but did you diassemble the motor to access and clean or replace the motor bearings? How did you add oil to the lower motor bearing. The housing on mine doesn't have a hole for oil. Thanks again for the reply.
     
  4. Kosinki

    Kosinki AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Location:
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    I did dissasemble the motor to clean and oil the bearings and to inspect the motor shaft. In order to get into the motor I removed the 3 screws holding it to the chassis and to be careful not to damage the small tempo springs. Then I removed the pitch control lever and pulled away the motor with the speed control linkage attached. I removed the tempo springs as I was replacing them later. Then I removed the top motor isolation springs and loosened off the nuts on the 2 threaded studs. The top section of the motor casing pulls straight up and off. However, If you wanted to do a really thorough clean to the lower bearing and bearing ball you'd have to drill out the bottom rivets to access the captive ball.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2017
  5. totem

    totem AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    beau I ran across an interesting very cost effective bearing mod that is done by a fellow over at Lenco Heaven
    the only caveat is that its longer than stock so a taller plinth is needed. Of course that shouldn't be an
    impediment.
     
  6. TerribleT

    TerribleT Member

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    66
    Nice bearing.
     

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  7. Kosinki

    Kosinki AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Sounds cool, what's the mod?
     
  8. TerribleT

    TerribleT Member

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    http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=25857.0It's not really a mod but a complete bearing replacement. Check it out if you're interested or keep it in mind if you want to try something different i the near future. Btw, where did you find the Mingus quote?
    Regards,
    David
     
  9. totem

    totem AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    There you go, I chatted with the maker regarding whats actually used internally etc
    seems he keeps it close to the vest.
     
  10. Kosinki

    Kosinki AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Hm looks like I'll need to create an account to view that page.

    The Mingus quote is from some documentary on YouTube I was watching. It was during a concert lol
     
  11. Pup

    Pup AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    109
    Hi All,

    You may have seen in one of my other posts that I just purchased a 1 owner 1954 Grey Grease bearing Garrard 301. Before I get into plinth and arm, I'd like to get some recommendations on where to send if for a cleaning , re-grease, springs, in order words, complete rebuild....

    Also, I have an original template for the plinth top , but am looking for a multi layer plinth blueprint/drawing... The one that is made to fit snugly around the motor.... Ever inside layer is cut differently, smallest cut out at the top. Have seen em... But can't find any dimensional drawing.

    Thanks all~

    more ??? to come.
     

     

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  12. Rock_nut

    Rock_nut New Member

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    37
    Location:
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    loricraft in England, they are the best in the world at restoring these turntables, I plan to send them my 401 when it needs to be rebuilt.
     
  13. Pup

    Pup AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    109
    Thanks.. I'll look into it
     
  14. GP49

    GP49 Super Member

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    1,147
    As for a multilayer plinth template, you may as well do it yourself. Make the topmost layer first from the Garrard template you have, and mount the 301 to it temporarily. Then use a sheet of newsprint paper, sold cheaply as moving supplies "packing paper" to wrap items for shipment, and make a pattern for the next layer. Then add that layer and make the pattern for the next layer, and onward until you have layers built to below the motor, centre bearing and structure of the 301. Below the motor, I recommend cutting a hole the size of the motor or slightly larger to provide airflow for ventilation and, if you intend to mount your plinth flush with no feet or spikes to elevate it, you should provide airflow channels so air can get from outside to the motor. It runs quite warm and although Garrards...the transcription turntables 301/401 and the consumer single players and record changers alike...were designed to operate in closed environments, it is better to allow for cooling. Also provide routes for the Garrard's AC power cable and for tonearm signal/ground cables to exit the plinth.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2018
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  15. Dandy

    Dandy Super Member

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  16. the_nines

    the_nines AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Here's how I built mine.
    http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/built-a-plinth-garrard-401.634197/

    It's for a Garrard 401, but the same principle should apply. Hope it helps.
     
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  17. jeremyjustic

    jeremyjustic Analog

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    I've been really wanting to make another plinth for my 401. I'd like to do a layered plinth made out of pool table slate. I have a buddy who can waterjet cut the slate, just need to find an old pool table for the right price.
     
  18. SB12345

    SB12345 New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Just like to introduce myself, new poster - old Audiophile. I've just finished my rehab of a cream Schedule 1 301 and have been listening to it for a couple of days. WOW!!

    Complete pro go-over with parts from Analog Tube Audio, CTC, Loricraft, Peak HiFi, and the rest of the usual suspects.

    Just installed it in one of the new Acoustand Solid Plinth 2 plinths with an Alfred Bokrand modified 12" Ortofon AS-309 arm. I'm utilizing a Zu Audio DL-103 cartridge in a 20g Fidelity Research 'shell driving an Auditorium 23 standard SUT into an EAR 834P (mm) phono stage.

    I just love this thing!!!!!!!

    Cheers,
    SB
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2018
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  19. totem

    totem AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Well SB we will need a picture or 3 now aren't we.
     
  20. Pup

    Pup AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I just ordered my Alfred Bokrand modified 12" Ortofon AS-309 arm yesterday... Also bought an Orsonic AV-1S Headshell. Sent my Denon Zu103 to Andy and Needledoctor for complete rebuild with Boron cantilever and micro ridge stylus.

    Jim Campbell from this site, is rebuilding my 301 and making me a 2 arm 3" thick slate plinth...

    Not sure what my second arm choice will be, maybe another Alfred Bokrand modified 12" EMT ? My buddy has a Technics EPA250 that' a really nice 10" arm....

    bc
     

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