Good way to place panels on the ceiling?

Discussion in 'Listening Spaces' started by mhedges, Jan 24, 2017.

  1. mhedges

    mhedges AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,087
    Location:
    Greensboro NC
    Anyone have a good way to hang/mount treatment panels on the ceiling? Hopefully so there is little to no gap between the ceiling and the panel, and there's no mounting hardware visible?

    I mounted one with springs and drywall anchors and it looks good but it was a minor nightmare to get up there. I'd like to put some more up but don't want to go through that again. Panel details - 2'x4', 3" Safe n Sound in a 1x4 frame, wrapped with fabric. I'd like to use the Owens Corning stuff since it doesn't need a frame but I don't know where to get it around here.
     
  2. Chip Chester

    Chip Chester Super Member

    Messages:
    1,506
    Location:
    Central Ohio
    Smooth, clean, painted drywall? No texture? No "sorry, can't make any holes" disclaimer?
    What's the weight of the 2x4 panel? Does it need to be rigid enough not to rattle regardless of SPL, or just reasonably 'up there' so it doesn't come down in an mild earthquake?

    (On the SPL question, a "yes" to the no-rattle question assumes your wall mounted pictures are attached with multiple screws and have glass that is sealed with silicone rubber...)

    Here's one approach:

    Buy some of these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman-Group-Shelf-Support/4461889
    (inexpensive in the scheme of things, but overpriced for what they are...)

    Screw 4 to the ceiling, with screws long enough and placed so they engage framing/trusses (best case), aligned in a manner where they engage the 4' side of the panel, about 1' in from each corner. (Depending on weight, three might do it. Two on long side at 6" from corner, one in center of opposite long side.) Goal with spacing is to allow frame to flex just a bit.

    2. Then, drill shallow (!) holes in the inside face of the 1x4 frame that are a snug fit for the pins, and at an offset that will hold the panel snug to ceiling.. (Create a clearance hole in the fabric for drill so it doesn't catch and ruin fabric.)

    3. Offer up panel, engaging pins in far side of frame. Gently pull panel towards you, springing the frame just a bit to allow the near side pins to engage the holes.

    4. To remove, use a stout wire bent in a L-shape to get between the ceiling and the panel, then turn 90 degrees to engage panel frame and pull to flex frame enough to disengage pins from frame. As an alternative to the wire, you could use a cheap putty knife that has been cut halfway across with tinsnips. Bend the leaf down slightly, (file off burrs) then slide it between frame and ceiling with the leaf hanging down. Engage, and then flex frame for removal. If you need to remove tool, slide so that the un-cut edge of the putty knife is the leading edge.

    There are about a million other ways to do this too, with magnets, velcro, finish-head screws that you drive with a screwdriver you gently part the fabric weave with, and then re-orient fabric threads when finished, baby-proof cabinet latches actuated with a magnet, fishing line in eye-bolts pulled taut to ceiling, 3-M 'command' adhesive products, slide-on keyhole slot brackets on screws (https://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman-Group-Keyhole-Hanger/3306354), table-leaf alignment brackets, (like: https://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman-Group-Flush-Mount-Hangers-1-75-in-X-1-5-in/3306352), your spring-based approach, screws from above if you have access, you name it....

    Another alleged "brainstorm": 4 flat mending brackets (https://www.lowes.com/pd/National-4...-0-07-in-Zinc-Alloy-Mending-Braces/1000145895), screwed to frame just loose enough to pivot by hand.. Orient all at, say, a 45 degree angle and fasten to ceiling frame member loose enough to pivot. Push sideways, pivoting the two brackets to cover screws. Fasten other two brackets at 45 degrees, equally as loose. Then, slide sideways the other way just enough to cover all brackets/screws with the frame. Shim with shim stock if needed for snugness, but know each shim pulls it down just a little.

    Good luck!

    Chip
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2017
  3. mhedges

    mhedges AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,087
    Location:
    Greensboro NC
    Yep its smooth, painted, untextured drywall. Can make holes just don't want them visible.

    Some good ideas here thanks!
     
  4. audiomagnate

    audiomagnate AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    7,520
    Location:
    Atlanta
    One of my first jobs was to use plain old Liquid Nails to mount 2" thick fabric-coated fiberglass to the suspended ceiling panels at a big studio in Pittsburgh.
     

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