gruesome carnage, advice needed

Hopefully I don't offend. But, if you used a 16 gauge x 50' cord as in picture. It looks well worn, too. You need an electrician or DIY'er friend to overlook your wiring. Could have takenyou and your unsuspecting neighbors out. We all have things we are good at and not so good at.
edit: I don't think an electrician you might hire would want the liability of help to use any extension cord with your AC unit. Think your on your own. Good luck and be safe.
 
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Personally, I would never use a 50' extension cord with an air conditioner.

Are there no outlets closer?
 
Probably would be a good idea to replace the wall socket as well. This will make the connection as good as possible.
 
I doubt the landlord would want a fire. An air conditioner is not an unusual item to have in an apartment. You might feel him out on adding a higher current circuit. Could save you all in the end.
 
How would I deal with this?

1. Cut the old plug off the AC unit, abd about 6" of cord. Skin back the newly cut off cord and inspect for heat damage. If OK, re-terminate with a quality Hubbel, or commercial grade leviton plug. Get an expensive one, no cheapies here.

2. Measure the length of the extension cord required, add 10%, and buy that length of 12/2 "cab tire" cable. The black heavy bulk industrial grade extension cord stuff. I like Carol branded cable but there's others. Try and get something made in USA. Terminate this cord with plug and sockets of similar quality to the plug in step 1.

3. Run the air conditioned on maximum and feel the plugs, sockets, cords, and wall sockets for heat. If anything is getting more than mildly warm after hours of continuously operation, you have a problem.

4. Don't trust the factory molded extension cord sockets for continuous high ampere useage.


Best regards
 
50 ft 12 awg extension cord ... A/C unit ... NO!!!!! VERY BAD IDEA!!!

You just had the shot fired across the bow here and you got very lucky!

Personally, I buy 12/3 and 10/3 off the spool and make my own cords with Hubbel ends, duplex boxes, etc for high current applications.

The objective is that you should feel and measure no appreciable heat at the connection point, wiring, outlet, etc.
 
How would I deal with this?

1. Cut the old plug off the AC unit, abd about 6" of cord. Skin back the newly cut off cord and inspect for heat damage. If OK, re-terminate with a quality Hubbel, or commercial grade leviton plug. Get an expensive one, no cheapies here.

2. Measure the length of the extension cord required, add 10%, and buy that length of 12/2 "cab tire" cable. The black heavy bulk industrial grade extension cord stuff. I like Carol branded cable but there's others. Try and get something made in USA. Terminate this cord with plug and sockets of similar quality to the plug in step 1.

3. Run the air conditioned on maximum and feel the plugs, sockets, cords, and wall sockets for heat. If anything is getting more than mildly warm after hours of continuously operation, you have a problem.

4. Don't trust the factory molded extension cord sockets for continuous high ampere useage.


Best regards
You beat me to it!
 
Hopefully I don't offend. But, if you used a 16 gauge x 50' cord as in picture. It looks well worn, too. You need an electrician or DIY'er friend to overlook your wiring. Could have takenyou and your unsuspecting neighbors out. We all have things we are good at and not so good at.
edit: I don't think an electrician you might hire would want the liability of help to use any extension cord with your AC unit. Think your on your own. Good luck and be safe.

i am greatly offended. however, i'm also somewhat moist, as it's a pretty humid day, so i am making progress on the AC unit, and not plotting my revenge.
(i'm going to watch this Sunday's game of thrones premier for inspiration)

rest assured, now that i'm aware of the problem, i will be monitoring it to ensure that no one becomes crispy on my account. the cable currently (excuse the pun) runs under my foot, and will remain there until i'm satisfied that there's no problem.

Probably would be a good idea to replace the wall socket as well. This will make the connection as good as possible.

I doubt the landlord would want a fire. An air conditioner is not an unusual item to have in an apartment. You might feel him out on adding a higher current circuit. Could save you all in the end.

my landlord is a property management company, and they're absurdly cheap, and they don't believe in preventative maintenance. they'd be more inclined to sue me or demand i buy a new air conditioner. I like my old sears/kenmore monster. I complained about a leaky kitchen sink drain, and, after first trying to convince me that it really wasn't leaking, and that all the water damage to their cabinetry was merely an illusion, they expanded the definition of 'bare minimum' by running a bead of silicone around the sink instead of fixing it properly, which would have required some work lifting the sink, but the same amount of silicone. i try not to involve them whenever possible.

How would I deal with this?

1. Cut the old plug off the AC unit, abd about 6" of cord. Skin back the newly cut off cord and inspect for heat damage. If OK, re-terminate with a quality Hubbel, or commercial grade leviton plug. Get an expensive one, no cheapies here.

2. Measure the length of the extension cord required, add 10%, and buy that length of 12/2 "cab tire" cable. The black heavy bulk industrial grade extension cord stuff. I like Carol branded cable but there's others. Try and get something made in USA. Terminate this cord with plug and sockets of similar quality to the plug in step 1.

3. Run the air conditioned on maximum and feel the plugs, sockets, cords, and wall sockets for heat. If anything is getting more than mildly warm after hours of continuously operation, you have a problem.

4. Don't trust the factory molded extension cord sockets for continuous high ampere useage.


Best regards
thanks for this, i may yet make my own extension, but for now the Canadian Tire one will have to do. I am quite certain that the problem here was the plugs, this AC unit was gifted to me, and i think spent some time in the outdoors, the old plug is very green, even the ground prong is pretty corrroded, i'm sure that's the reason why there's no damage outside of the male and female sockets that i posted already. I used a real beefy leviton plug for the AC unit http://www.leviton.com/en/products/515PR, and it draws about 10A after 45min at max. the new plug and extension cord fit together with a snugness that would make my girlfriend jealous, i think it will be OK.....but i'm still leaving it under the desk where i can check the temp. frequently.
 
10 amps is a LOT of power, you're approaching the maximum safe output of that entire circuit, if not at it.

I certainly would not trust a 'normal' extension cord for such a load, both my Carver pro amps running at ear-splitting levels draw less then 8 amps combined at peaks
 
thanks for this, i may yet make my own extension, but for now the Canadian Tire one will have to do. I am quite certain that the problem here was the plugs, this AC unit was gifted to me, and i think spent some time in the outdoors, the old plug is very green, even the ground prong is pretty corrroded, i'm sure that's the reason why there's no damage outside of the male and female sockets that i posted already. I used a real beefy leviton plug for the AC unit http://www.leviton.com/en/products/515PR, and it draws about 10A after 45min at max. the new plug and extension cord fit together with a snugness that would make my girlfriend jealous, i think it will be OK.....but i'm still leaving it under the desk where i can check the temp. frequently.

If anything, replace the female connector on the Canadian Tire extension cord with a better one if you find it's getting warm. Those pre-molded ones don't always make good contact after a while, a lot of the tightness is caused by the injection molded rubber slots being a bit under-sized, rather than "good" tightness caused by large and strong contacts.

There's a good reason extension cords are considered by many to be a fire hazard, part of the reason is that they're allowed to be made in light gages of wire which aren't properly protected by your circuit breaker, like #16 and #18.. another reason is simply that price is usually the main characteristic which they're selected by, so they tend to be kind of cheaply made.
 
I don't think 18 gauge extension cords are approved any more (though I still have a few around...). 16 gauge will safely carry more than 10 A (The NEC says 13A maximum), but you had a poor connection at the load end. 12 gauge will be better (less voltage drop) but the connections are often the weakest link.
 
I don't think 18 gauge extension cords are approved any more (though I still have a few around...). 16 gauge will safely carry more than 10 A (The NEC says 13A maximum), but you had a poor connection at the load end. 12 gauge will be better (less voltage drop) but the connections are often the weakest link.

Agreed that the connections caused the problem here, but that isn't why I said 12 AWG cord.

The branch circuits are probably #14 in a residence and already approaching the maximum allowable voltage drop of 3%. This new cord will add an additional approx 3.5% voltage drop. While the cord can technically carry 10 amps, the additional voltage drop may put the operating voltage of the machine too low, and affect performance and longevity.

Good info about #18 extension cords not made anymore. I still have a bunch of them around, and never noticed them leave the market.
 
hey guys - so far so good, i ran the AC yesterday for several hours, the cord did not heat up at all around the new barrel connector, so i think I'm in the clear. today it's cold so i'm not really running the compressor, but will keep on it before it gets tucked away.

I am thinking about changing the male end of the extension, mostly for reasons of clearance, i want a right angle plug, just trying to find one of these on the cheap:http://www.leviton.com/en/products/5266-CA. i might as well do the outlet behind the oven too...i have to find a local source for the leviton plug, home depot doesn't seem to stock them, and i'm not paying $40 out of principle....moving back the oven 2" can wait until i wander into the right electronic supplier.
 
you want to feel the heat along the cord itself, the barrel is, for example, going to have the smallest 'heat sink' affect due to its insulation.
 
IMG_20170713_201056.jpg
For those who enjoy tools, like toys. An Infrered Thermometer like this could be used to accurately check temp of that cord for hot spots.
It has a lot of other uses for non-contact readings. Can check amplifier temps. Find cold or warm spots of home outside surfaces to evaluate insulation and air leaks.
They are reasonably priced. This one came from Harbor Freight. Keep receipt incase you get a dud, that thier QC didn't catch.
 
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50 ft 12 awg extension cord ... A/C unit ... NO!!!!! VERY BAD IDEA!!!

You just had the shot fired across the bow here and you got very lucky!

Personally, I buy 12/3 and 10/3 off the spool and make my own cords with Hubbel ends, duplex boxes, etc for high current applications.

The objective is that you should feel and measure no appreciable heat at the connection point, wiring, outlet, etc.

The wire feeding the outlet is probably 12/3. Another hunk of 12/3 isn't going to make all that much difference, but keep the run as short as possible.
 
Your in Toronto so you fall under the Ontario rent and tenant act which is good for you make your cheap ass landlord fix you plugs so you don't have to run an extension cord. He's required to. And the best part somewhere in your area the is a free service to help you. It cost him a fortune to argue with you http://www.legalaid.on.ca/en/contact/contact.asp?type=cl just type in your address and it will tell you where to go.
 
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