Heathkit W5M too quiet

FireGuruMN

Active Member
Oh no another W5M restoration!

I had a pair sitting on the bench with a whole pile of expensive tubes and replacements parts sitting next to them for about a year of so. I thought it would be wise to learn how tube amplification works before tearing into these amps. I was originally thinking I only had enough usable bits to make one working amplifier but after checking all the transformers other "iron" I figured I had enough to get 2 working amps. One has an "off brand" output transformer instead of the grey Peerless but the wire resistances match almost exactly so I decided to give it a try after loosing out on numerous overpriced replacement on epray. Did you see the NOS one that went for $350!

So I filled my brain with 1950's schematics and manuals this winter. It was actually pretty enjoyable after living in the semiconductor world for so long. I also read through several excellent posts on AK. Thank you very much.

I had a few stumbles along the way. One 470k ohm resistor when it should have been 470ohm. A few cold solder joints. Dirty tube sockets. blah blah.

But when I was all done I brought them up on a variac and nothing smoked. But they are ohhhh soooo quiet. I would think that 25 watts would be enough to rattle some plates and annoy my wife at least. Don't get me wrong, they do put out a decent amount of sound. and it sounds very good. I just was expecting more. I have a 35 watt AA100 and a few other tube amps and they do much better.

I have verified that the first 12AU7 is amplifying the signal and splitting the phases correctly. The second 12AU7 is raising that signal a lot more and the KT66's are boosting it quite well. But something is not right. Both amps have identical output as much as my scope and hears can tell.

Here is a picture for those that like that sort of thing. Not as pretty as some that I have seen.

upload_2018-4-24_18-10-58.png

I originally had these hooked up to a DAC on the RCA connectors of the DAC. I moved it over to the headphone connectors and it got a bit louder. But nothing drastic.

So is there some little resistor that I can swap out to get the gain up a little? What is the best way to measure the output that I am getting? Obviously I don't want to melt the expensive output transformers. I have the amp driving a pair of Boston Acoustic A400's (4 ohm load). Can I just measure the RMS voltage and figure the power out from that resistance? They are not too efficient but not the worst either. I attached a schematic also that has voltages that are nice for troubleshooting. That helped me find my wrong resistor.

I also have heard of "Williamson modifications" out there to make this even better sounding. But nothing specific for this amplifier. Any thoughts?

And here are some lessons learned:
Replace all the hookup wire. I though I could get off easy by leaving it in but many of the connections were not good because of the solder flux or melted plastic on the old wire.
Replace the tube sockets. I really wanted to keep my looking original on the outside so I kept mine but I believe there are brown sockets out there that would have been a better choice. But mine cleaned up well enough to work. But I can get some "scratchies" until everything heats up.
Specify the manufacturer on NOS tubes if you want matching amps. I ended up with different brands of rectifiers. They both fine work but I wanted matching amps.
Add a CL80 in series with the power circuit to slow down surges on startup. It's not much of a change but seems to help.
Order replacement mounting plates for replacement multi cap cans. it is pretty much impossible to get the old ones off the old cans.
Replace the 300ohm pots. one of mine was replaced at some time and it is easier to adjust than the other.

I can put up a parts list if anyone in interested.

Things I would love to have for parts:
Replacements for the 120volt accessory outlets. Two of mine are damaged and dangerous.
Anyone got a 16458 transformer laying around? I kinda like the look of the big black one I have but I really want a matching set.

And one of the amps goes "pop" "pop" exactly twice every time I power it up cold. It is not in the speakers, it is coming from the amp. Maybe the capacitor cans shorting? The other one is just fine on startup.

Off to a Sansui 1000a next. . .lots more spaghetti in that pot.
 

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I have rebuilt a couple pairs of these now and found them to be plenty loud connected to my Klipsch RF7 speakers and the customer I did them for was very pleased with them. I liked them so much so I am watching for a pair for myself.

Gregb
 
One important thing about this amp: make sure the coupling caps 1uf are rated 600V and not 400V as the schematic.

At startup they get the full B+ and over time, get beat up, start to leak and then more bad things will happen.
 
EDIT: Maybe try tweaking your feedback a little. :dunno:

On the amp that pops on warm up, just turn it over and listen closely to where it is coming from. If it is working ok, it's not going to blow up or do anything scary drastic.

Yeah, 25 watts is more than enough to rattle the pant legs.

Until you can get those 120 volt sockets fixed, just disconnect them and isolate the wires so that there is absolutely no possibility of a short. The popping sorta reminds me of a 120 volt pop/short so look there.
 
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Attached is the summary of the parts I ordered. There are parts on the list for TWO amplifiers. I had some other resistors in stock so there are more resistors required than shown on the list. Of course there are other sources for these parts but this list is from AES. Most of the cost was the tubes and multipart-caps so I didn't worry much about the other bits.
I did replace the multi-part caps with new CE ones. They are not cheap. Some of the ones I took out still test good so I will probably put then in a future project. Anyone know where I can get a 75/75/75/75 for a Scott?
Most of the coupling caps are 600 volt Solens. So they can take the B+
I am not using a preamp, just the output of a DAC connected to a computer. I suppose I could throw one of the heathkit preamps into the circuit. Or any pre-out from any amp I suppose. Maybe that has a higher output than the DAC. I hope I am not having a brain fart thinking that the output from the DAC is the same as a preamp output. That would be embarrassing. :confused: I guess it has never mattered with all the 100 watt amps I've been messing with.
I never quite got to the training section on feedback circuits. :(. Maybe I need to fill my head a little more.
I can't say that it sounds like a good idea sticking my ear next to something that sounds like it is making a high voltage arc. :yikes:. The sacrifices we make for science. . .
 

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Maybe try a different preamp? Never had a volume issue when I had my W-5's.

Input voltage would be my guess. Although my W-5 works fine with my PAT-5. I recall reading about how to increase input sensitivity but I don't remember the source.
 
Perhaps before too much modification, check they are or not delivering the correct voltage gain?

Based on the spec of 1V in to get 25W out, at 8 ohms that's approximately 23dB gain (roughly 14.1 multiplication of input voltage).

If the gain of these amps is less than the others in your comparison then, yes, it will be perfectly normal for less output at same/similar volume knob position. Or, looking at it the other way, perfectly normal to need a higher volume setting with these to get the same/similar output to an amp (or amps) having higher gain.
 
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What’s with the reversed biased big blue electrolytic caps?
At least that’s how it appears.
 
Voltages are correct on the 12AU7s? I know you said they were operating correctly, just curious what you got on the plates there.
 
What’s with the reversed biased big blue electrolytic caps?
At least that’s how it appears.

I have not studied the schematic or the pictures but if they are part of fixed grid bias supply they normally are connected positive to ground since grid bias voltage is (typically) negative relative to ground.
 
I suppose I could throw one of the heathkit preamps into the circuit. Or any pre-out from any amp I suppose.
I've tested 500 watt amps using an iPod as a source and there's a significantly lower volume there than from the preamp I normally use. Try connecting to your preamp or the receiver pre-out as you suggested and the volume levels should increase, hopefully to your satisfaction.
 
My ipod is also on the weak side. Not sure if its output impedance related or just low output voltage related but its a bit lame as a source.

If you have a signal generator and a halfway accurate means of measuring AC voltage, you could see how much input it takes to get to full output. If it meets the 1v for 25w spec, the amp is fine. Use a dummy load for this, 25 watts of single tone output will make your ears scream for mercy.
 
The two Blue Caps on the right are connected in a very strange fashion. Like both ends are connected positive. But I cant be certain from the one pic and being tied to the Can Cap sections.
 
Attached is the summary of the parts I ordered. There are parts on the list for TWO amplifiers. I had some other resistors in stock so there are more resistors required than shown on the list. Of course there are other sources for these parts but this list is from AES. Most of the cost was the tubes and multipart-caps so I didn't worry much about the other bits.
I did replace the multi-part caps with new CE ones. They are not cheap. Some of the ones I took out still test good so I will probably put then in a future project. Anyone know where I can get a 75/75/75/75 for a Scott?
Most of the coupling caps are 600 volt Solens. So they can take the B+
I am not using a preamp, just the output of a DAC connected to a computer. I suppose I could throw one of the heathkit preamps into the circuit. Or any pre-out from any amp I suppose. Maybe that has a higher output than the DAC. I hope I am not having a brain fart thinking that the output from the DAC is the same as a preamp output. That would be embarrassing. :confused: I guess it has never mattered with all the 100 watt amps I've been messing with.
I never quite got to the training section on feedback circuits. :(. Maybe I need to fill my head a little more.
I can't say that it sounds like a good idea sticking my ear next to something that sounds like it is making a high voltage arc. :yikes:. The sacrifices we make for science. . .
I didn't realize the can caps were new, I thought they were "bypassed with the blue caps" incorrectly, my mistake...
 
Thanks for all the great conversation. I hooked an Adcom GTP-450 between the DAC and the W5M's. I am definitely getting more signal now. :banana:. That makes a lot of sense when you think about the readouts on modern amps going past "0db" on their volume scales. Anything past 0db is a signal boost. But I would still like to increase the sensitivity so I don't need to introduce another component into the system. I'm considering using the preamps that came with these W5M's but something tells me that is going to be a big hit in signal quality. And I only have one preamp at this time. Yea, I know I am taking this "authentic" thing too far.

This is definitely the only system I have where I can turn the volume all the way up without damaging hearing. I absolutely love the bass that these amps put out. It's like having the loudness button pressed all the time without any of the drawbacks.

I have compared the voltages from the schematic on my original post and they all match pretty well. I've got it running on a variac now because some of the voltages on straight outlet power were getting scary. I've got a transformer on order and I'm going to build one of these for all my older pieces: http://www.angelfire.com/electronic/funwithtubes/Buck_Boost.html I should probably order a load bank too. My neighbor was chasing his dog through my back yard and texted me "sounds good from out here". :thumbsup: The windows are all still closed here in Minnesota.

I'm still open to a way to increase the sensitivity. I saw some threads about how to add a volume control but they only lowered volume. There's got to be some resistor to tweak. . .

It is quite a stretch for me seeing all these ground references in a circuit. In the fire alarm world that I work in ground faults are terrible. :blah:.
 
Wow, now I understand why people are paying crazy money for these 1950's amplifiers. I can hear things that just don't seem to make it through silicone components. I can even understand Bruce Springsteen and Dire Straits lyrics! Tracy Chapman's "Mountains o' Things" has low notes that I don't think I have ever heard before.

All this joy was sadly interrupted when one of the 12AU7's got loose in its socket and made some crackles before cutting out. That socket will have to be replaced. I've done everything I can to clean it and re-tension the pin holders. Kinda nice to be able to fix something by tapping it with your finger though. . .
 
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