Help in restoring a 1970's Kenwood PC-400U

It doesn't appear to be a unipivot. The pin in the vertical post should apply antiskate and it wouldn't be a unipivot to be able to do that.

This is a J-shaped arm with the lateral balance weight hanging off the inside of the arm pivot area. A unipivot is usually a straight arm and has a much smaller azimuth adjustment weight on the inside of the arm in my experience with unipivots. The Mayware handled this with the non-concentric counterweight used to set the azimuth.
 
Here these may help:

IMG_0338 by Jessica, on Flickr

IMG_0340 by Jessica, on Flickr

IMG_0339 by Jessica, on Flickr

For the motor oiling, I couldn't find any specific hole. I do see a tube coming in on the right side, but it's underneath and not easily accessible. I oiled the bearing at the base of the shaft and that made a big difference, it seems happier. So maybe I leave it as is for now? I also got all the belt gunk off it and all the other components in there.

IMG_0337 by Jessica, on Flickr
 
The white plastic cup in the middle is a capillary oiling system, not unlike on a Hammond tonewheel organ. I fill the cup up 75% of the way full. The cotton threads should have the oil travel to it's oiling points. Hammond oil, or a Singer sewing machine oil, or Zoom spout turbine oil should work for this application.20190203_085434.jpg
 
I believe the lateral weight - the cylinder attached to the post on the left of the pivot - should be vertical. That would give you a little more wiggle room with the counterweight which seems very close to as far forward as it can go.
The motor has bearings at the top and the bottom, so you do need to run some oil into those tubes. Be aware that if the old oil has gummed things up, you may need to clean both bearings and shafts before relubing.
 
Since these rare tables (Trio PC-350/400) were supposedly called "Garrard Killers", maybe Mister Pig should grab one. They tend to go for a fraction of the price.
 
The antiskatiing mechanism is out of whack. The rod with the weight should not ride on the horizontal fixed lower rod - it's the other rod which right now is doing nothing that is supposed to ride on the horizontal rod. As the tonearm moves inward, it pushes the other rod, which lifts the rod with the weight on it.
That's the theory. This setup is backassward - normally the fixed rod (which has low mass and not a whole lot of resonance potential) is on the moving part of the arm, and the pivoted weighted rod is on the base, where neither mass nor resonance are as important. And, if you are worried enough about lateral balance to add a lateral weight, why would you place more mass on the other side? Mysterious...
I don't doubt that there is a reason for it since Kenwood engineers designed many excellent tables, but this is taking me more than a few moments to figure out.
 
Well, I was curious so I looked a various images, and the issue with the current set up is that the weight is supposed to be at the rear, with the other rod pressing against the fixed rod from the back, so as the arm moves across the record, it lifts the weight.
I think in this case, Kenwood engineers have done an excellent job of making something more complicated just to be different.
 
Just noticed this is a zombie thread, though a rather fresh one - only two years ago. Wonder what happened with the table?
 
Just noticed this is a zombie thread, though a rather fresh one - only two years ago. Wonder what happened with the table?

OP was a newbie. Hopefully he kept the table. Word is slowly spreading about these. His table has a Jelco SA-100(?) arm. Since these tables are from 1969, I presume it was early days yet for arm makers and they were still figuring things out. I have the PC-350 and it has a very different arm with a heavy 5.5oz counterweight. Never seen a weight this big before:

e2cVioZUv2zVFt8VUTYztCKNinoIVjUfwKW9Ci0_v7o7QFsFvJObnjALW9fwQP8da8hhHzlsOlI0q8hAl64ZrvZkJbJ_TESIYmxQMj19rZkesMBVIEyBCXwEbTXMZyAFEVy4ZHbZiTH5PmUaB6UWE3oCDFdCBbTJsMLtynkf4ifDrhq8YNIgZnlMhcqJjRrgLQD8VuB6uFeEbP94QjRcJlJzSwgHaOIOtFFPmJXIKPMSgAl8ENpS8HNnUbOsBIZAhhYRZJV-UPIAawLyRFh4B6upJYbaJu_VuEKFctOJpI8TSn5IiwcRc0AqboOR6BlY3VpFgsp67IOVLP_4e-f5KviGtvxbQsrG8HnN_5-eRMONF57dH5meo45kk-jCw530ySpRkIheW07UecbWH4CAFr8zT01OttRhPNlpHJrnSkvMChtzxsT_7qX5P0pvmBfwMQxWwS8FGuOV_w62tGi03-ek8i6cTZAjfI88jWy4csdsDP-qpVSIzbUApoQ_Q99kqTqTHYm85PGYAfUL1KjpbozIBmJ46YUCaFv4TmQb-9PRak90zLmf5S6WXw6bPfuxnzwYmGCkjCLuxg2h5vKWXoGgtZEN7tc7DDePddjq5CCib2togqFnhtsguFprP7x_Yvt_NC7LvGVR6QkGwDVQkINP6YT0e4BKXpqDaW0hvkcIzM6N3PU4jOQ=w1920-h960-no
 
There's a Trio PC 350 on the auction site right now. Seller hasn't been able to get the price he wants so keeps dropping. It's not garage sale cheap but considering it's been mentioned in the same company as Thorens and Garrard, I'd call it a bargain given the performance. Especially since they're pretty rare.
 
Hi All, been following this thread and a couple others on Pinkfish / VinylEngine on these old Kenwood / Trio Belt Idler turntables. I recently picked up an PC-350--which was in a console for 50 years. After a good, thorough cleaning and sourcing a bunch of upgrades--still working on the lubrication maintenance.

I am good with most elements of this machine--but am trying to nail down what to use to lubricate the idler bearings. I've broken them open, cleaned out all the grease, found some replacement (delrin) thrust pads and need to re-pack the bearing. The large, main bearing was filled with white grease that had a bunch of black streaks in it that presumably came from a disintegrated thrust pad (none was found within) or some mixed motor oil. The smaller bearing was nearly dry--but had a cracked thrust bearing within.

I have read that any number of things could be used to pack the bearings--but can't find consensus. And can't find squat about amount to input.

  • The first page of This post talks about using CV joint grease--but some type not available in the states (post was 9 years ago).
  • The second page of the same post suggested soaking in Shell Formula 5W-20 motor oil then packing with Honda Pro Molybdenum Disulfide grease
My inclination is to pack it with White Lithium Grease, dip the shaft in lightweight motor oil, then insert and seal the bearing. Thoughts on this procedure?

I am using sewing machine oil for the motor, but not sure how much to put in the bath to properly be absorbed by the wicks and bathe the motor.

Questions:
  1. How different is the Honda Pro grease vs White Lithium Grease ? Interchangeable? Would you recommend something else?
  2. Do I use the same method for both the large and smaller bearings?
  3. Do I just pack it as full as possible or do I leave some breathing room?
  4. How much oil do I use to properly bathe the motor? So far, filled it up once and let it be absorbed. More?

Added a bunch of labeled pictures. (I wish I had these when I started!)

Passing along some upgrades / things I purchased. I am still in upgrade mode--so just bought these, haven't installed or tested yet. I'll return back with updates.:
  • This tonearm is extremely back-end heavy--so I picked up a used ~13 gram AT headshell (LT-13) on ebay to counterbalance the fat ass. Previous Owner had a soft metal piece just taped to the lightweight Kenwood headshell ($50 shipped)
  • I did buy a replacement belt from LP Tunes--although realizing that the original silicone one I have still looks good, so will keep for a backup. I haven't tested it yet, but is much less wide than the silicone although looks like an exact length. ($24 shipped)
  • I will take the capacitor off and test value. Picked up a replacement .oo47 uf / 640v from tubes and more. ($5 shipped)
  • Picked up replacement RCA cables w/ ground. (this requires soldering--but super simple). Bought 8ft from ebay endtoendcables. ($52 shipped)
  • The most difficult pieces to source specifically for this were the delrin thrust pads. It needs (for the large = 4mm x 19mm, for the small 2xmm x 12mm). I found other delrin pads on ebay from a couple sellers, but no direct matches for size, so found the seller, Pat, that makes them and was recommended the following:
    • Pioneer PL-50A ( 2.3mm x 19mm) FOR LARGE
    • Empire 208 ( 2mm x 11.4mm) FOR SMALL
    • I bought 2 of the Pioneer PL-50A's to stack and one Empire ($60 shipped - way more than these should cost, but Pat helped me out with sizes, so you know)
  • While a lid isn't 100% necessary, I wanted one and mine had its removed and discarded by the previous owner because it needed to fit in their console. Have the hinge holes, but have 0 hope that I'll ever find hinges--so just looking for one to place on it for now like I do with my 1200's. Was looking to get a custom one made from jnbaudio for $175, but just purchased a used one that is supposed to fit an Ion. Same specs although it has a tonearm bump. It looks modern / rounded and not sure how that will match the style of this vintage TT, but worth a shot. Size is about 14.25"x17.25" ($33 shipped)
Appreciate any help you can provide!

 
I wonder if the designers were as scrupulous about lubricants as you appear to be. Knowing nothing, I suspect you will be fine, though I am uneasy about the mixing of oil and grease - if it mixes easily, a lighter grade of grease would have accomplished the same thing, and if they don't mix, problems could arise.
It looks likes a most impressive table - I hope it delights you.
 
Hi All, been following this thread and a couple others on Pinkfish / VinylEngine on these old Kenwood / Trio Belt Idler turntables. I recently picked up an PC-350--which was in a console for 50 years. After a good, thorough cleaning and sourcing a bunch of upgrades--still working on the lubrication maintenance.

I am good with most elements of this machine--but am trying to nail down what to use to lubricate the idler bearings. I've broken them open, cleaned out all the grease, found some replacement (delrin) thrust pads and need to re-pack the bearing. The large, main bearing was filled with white grease that had a bunch of black streaks in it that presumably came from a disintegrated thrust pad (none was found within) or some mixed motor oil. The smaller bearing was nearly dry--but had a cracked thrust bearing within.

I have read that any number of things could be used to pack the bearings--but can't find consensus. And can't find squat about amount to input.

  • The first page of This post talks about using CV joint grease--but some type not available in the states (post was 9 years ago).
  • The second page of the same post suggested soaking in Shell Formula 5W-20 motor oil then packing with Honda Pro Molybdenum Disulfide grease
My inclination is to pack it with White Lithium Grease, dip the shaft in lightweight motor oil, then insert and seal the bearing. Thoughts on this procedure?

I am using sewing machine oil for the motor, but not sure how much to put in the bath to properly be absorbed by the wicks and bathe the motor.

Questions:
  1. How different is the Honda Pro grease vs White Lithium Grease ? Interchangeable? Would you recommend something else?
  2. Do I use the same method for both the large and smaller bearings?
  3. Do I just pack it as full as possible or do I leave some breathing room?
  4. How much oil do I use to properly bathe the motor? So far, filled it up once and let it be absorbed. More?

Added a bunch of labeled pictures. (I wish I had these when I started!)

Passing along some upgrades / things I purchased. I am still in upgrade mode--so just bought these, haven't installed or tested yet. I'll return back with updates.:
  • This tonearm is extremely back-end heavy--so I picked up a used ~13 gram AT headshell (LT-13) on ebay to counterbalance the fat ass. Previous Owner had a soft metal piece just taped to the lightweight Kenwood headshell ($50 shipped)
  • I did buy a replacement belt from LP Tunes--although realizing that the original silicone one I have still looks good, so will keep for a backup. I haven't tested it yet, but is much less wide than the silicone although looks like an exact length. ($24 shipped)
  • I will take the capacitor off and test value. Picked up a replacement .oo47 uf / 640v from tubes and more. ($5 shipped)
  • Picked up replacement RCA cables w/ ground. (this requires soldering--but super simple). Bought 8ft from ebay endtoendcables. ($52 shipped)
  • The most difficult pieces to source specifically for this were the delrin thrust pads. It needs (for the large = 4mm x 19mm, for the small 2xmm x 12mm). I found other delrin pads on ebay from a couple sellers, but no direct matches for size, so found the seller, Pat, that makes them and was recommended the following:
    • Pioneer PL-50A ( 2.3mm x 19mm) FOR LARGE
    • Empire 208 ( 2mm x 11.4mm) FOR SMALL
    • I bought 2 of the Pioneer PL-50A's to stack and one Empire ($60 shipped - way more than these should cost, but Pat helped me out with sizes, so you know)
  • While a lid isn't 100% necessary, I wanted one and mine had its removed and discarded by the previous owner because it needed to fit in their console. Have the hinge holes, but have 0 hope that I'll ever find hinges--so just looking for one to place on it for now like I do with my 1200's. Was looking to get a custom one made from jnbaudio for $175, but just purchased a used one that is supposed to fit an Ion. Same specs although it has a tonearm bump. It looks modern / rounded and not sure how that will match the style of this vintage TT, but worth a shot. Size is about 14.25"x17.25" ($33 shipped)
Appreciate any help you can provide!

Wish I could give you a gold medal for this post. Incredibly helpful, as I'm restoring a PC-350 right now. Any updates on how everything went? What did you end up going with to grease the bearings? Any particular oil end up working best for you?
 
Wish I could give you a gold medal for this post. Incredibly helpful, as I'm restoring a PC-350 right now. Any updates on how everything went? What did you end up going with to grease the bearings? Any particular oil end up working best for you?
Is yours running? I just got a 350 myself and did white lithium grease. Im not sure what he has marked as 12mm on that paper. I thought it was just old grease that hardened. Mine seems to be running much smoother now. It was rolling with a noisy bearing prior.
 
The 12mm is the original thrust pad replaced by the 11.4mm Delrin from Pat.
The Honda grease works very well. You just need a light application.
 
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