Help me (semi-newb) upgrade my system. (NOW evolving system thread).

One other point. In my acoustic guitar hobby, I prefer the rosewood back and side sound which produces a "scooped" presence with nice throbby lows and clear, clean highs. Sound familiar? (At least I think of the Dahlquists that way). I do not like a mid range hump or honk. Same thing with the iconic Tubescreamer electric guitar pedal. Too much mid-range hump. I prefer a RAT circuit for distortion which is less mid-humpy. So therefore, I will be interested to hear the 3 way Dahlquists and see what I think, as compared to my well known DQM-5's.
WHat is the finish of the guitars?

A lot of research went in to trying to duplicate Stradivarius violins and in the end--since the same woods are still available, it came down to the finish. Strad made his own lacquer. Similarly, using that knowledge as a guide, people began stripping modern fender guitars of their plasticized finish and using organic lacquer finishes that were similar to what Fender and Gibson and others used in the 50's. Voila, complete change in sound.

with regard to vintage speakers, you will cause a similar change in sound if one actually were to varnish the walnut cabinets--they were never varnished, but only sealed with wax.
 
Here is a link for the upgrades for some Dahlquist models like your 5s.

http://dahlquistonlinestore.com/Upgrade-kits_c_1.html

Also, others may know more, but I thought Jon Dahlquist and Carl Marchisotto had the biggest hand in the DQ-10s and DQM series speakers.....that went on to Alon Speakers (later reversed to Nola when Carl bought out partners?)

So......wasn’t sure if the open baffle DQ-8 thru DQ-30 or Alon 1 or 2 are actually more of a relation than the 903/907 series?

I heard the DQ-20s at a store in Chicago.......owned a pair of Alon IIs for 6 years.....they were fantastic.
 
Although the idea of inexpensive class A is intriguing, I have never heard, nor heard of, the Music Hall Mambo.
The Hafler DH-220 is a rugged amp with a beautiful sound. One in good shape would serve you well, I would think.

I am loving the Mambo, and it is currently at work where I am a lot of the time, providing a nice environment for my work space. What do you think about a Hafler P-225 that is in good shape and sounds good to a person I trust in a local audiophile club?
 
I am loving the Mambo, and it is currently at work where I am a lot of the time, providing a nice environment for my work space. What do you think about a Hafler P-225 that is in good shape and sounds good to a person I trust in a local audiophile club?
I would think it would sound as good and be as rugged as the DH-220. It is a direct descendant, but a 'pro' version. It uses MOSFETs as well, and basically looks like a DH-220 with a rack-mount faceplate. I'd say go for it. If you do, please let us know what you think.

:music:
 
I would think it would sound as good and be as rugged as the DH-220. It is a direct descendant, but a 'pro' version. It uses MOSFETs as well, and basically looks like a DH-220 with a rack-mount faceplate. I'd say go for it. If you do, please let us know what you think.

:music:
Was thinking about for now, using a Yamaha RX-V795a I ended up with as a pre-amp/input source, and to drive some little a/d/s mids I have toward the rear of the room for TV, and use the pre-out to the Hafler to power/support the main stereo speakers (the Dahlquists) up front, and for 2 channel stereo listening.

If it works out, which might take a little time considering location of the gear, I will report back.
 
Well, instead of the Yamaha as a pre-amp, I will have a PS Audio Pre-Amp, and will just switch speaker cables over when I want AV, unless I build or buy a switch. But just switching the cables is easy enough, and will keep the connections clean.
 
I like it for several reasons--beyond the bling factor. It's a good starting point. The pre section allows you to use your mac mini's optical out port. the 50 watts class A is better than 75 watts class B. Also, you can use the internal amp for tri-amping your speakers down the road. There are two ways to bi or tri amp--horizontal or vertical. Down the road you could buy another amp--say 100-150 watts and use the more powerful amp to drive the woofers horizontally and the 50 watts amp to drive the midrange and tweets vertically.

Part of this hobby is never being fully content--not really. Thus, I believe in building toward a goal which allows you to keep and maintain the base components while at the same time upgrading the system. Remember--the world's most expensive systems are actively bi or triamped. Even JBLs beloved Everest speakers ($75,000.00) are built with an idea of bi or even quad amping them. once you have the power, then you can play with speakers. I swap mine in and out every few years--storing the ones I am swapping out until I get bored with what I am listening to. I also swap amps in and out--but that's because they need to be used and not just gather dust.
@rob Brandt , I have been using this Music Hall I purchased at my office, streaming from both my Mac mini, and my MacBook Pro, just via the 3.5 through a 3.5 to RCA cable. Was thinking I would try using the optical out. I see you can get a 3.5 to toslink cable to get digital out of the 3.5 jack, but looks like you can run audio digitally out of the USB ports also. I don't see a cable to run USB into the optical input of my Music Hall however, to use the built in DAC. I probably just am missing something. Can you please advise? and is one way of going digital out of the mini better than the other? 3.5 or USB I mean?
 
Well, instead of the Yamaha as a pre-amp, I will have a PS Audio Pre-Amp, and will just switch speaker cables over when I want AV, unless I build or buy a switch. But just switching the cables is easy enough, and will keep the connections clean.
On this system, with the PS Audio 6.1 Pre-amp, and Hafler, I will use SONOS, and consider some other DAC (Topping D30 or something similar I would guess) for running from my Mac. Other than that, the inputs will be traditional.
 
I would think it would sound as good and be as rugged as the DH-220. It is a direct descendant, but a 'pro' version. It uses MOSFETs as well, and basically looks like a DH-220 with a rack-mount faceplate. I'd say go for it. If you do, please let us know what you think.

:music:
Just as a quick update, I have been enjoying the heck out of the Hafler, PS Audio preamp, and inputs. That is the system all set up in the pic above.

I also enjoy very much the Music Hall which I have been using at work. Both amps have a similar character, which makes sense, as both are MOSFET based, I came to find out. Clean with a touch of warmth is how I describe the sound. Not warm like a Marantz, or my old Denons even, but not as sterile as some Yamaha gear I have owned. Just right. And both match up well with my Dahlquists. And the Mambo seems to like the KLH 6's I have at work as well.
 
Since I last checked in, I added a Technics SL-1600 that came with a Pickering XV-15 in good shape. Really been enjoying it. So does the dog! The current stylus has some life left, and I have a JICO D1200 replacement in the drawer. Will keep my eye out for a NOS Pickering D1200 at a reasonable price or equivalent Stanton to try too. But I also really enjoy just streaming high quality tunes. Right now that is via the SONOS. At some point, I may add a Bluesound Node 2i. Also, will be rebooting my old Mac as an entertainment server that for now I can feed into the SONOS and at some point will used the BlueSound.

fullsizeoutput_e233.jpeg HWXyekSVTyyQ6mHvEYSOjw.jpg

@Lossless

EDIT: So this would be a second "evolving" thread as I have another. I will use the other thread instead and let this one finish here.

Other thread: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...main-system-2-ch-stereo-av-ish-option.859041/
 
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Hello @sunvalleylaw and @Saeco, I too am a Dahlquist owner. My current setup is DM-907 speakers, Yamaha A-S501 integrated amp, Schiit Mani 2.0 phono preamp, and Music Hall mmf-5.3 turntable with Ortofon Blue cartridge. Just curious if either of you pulled the trigger on the capacitor upgrade for your Dahlquists?

Thanks!
Will
 
Will, be best to start a brand new thread in speakers with your specific quesiton for best results, but I'll say this about Regnar cap kits, folks like the results and they are expensive for what you get. Knowing what the caps are in the crossover, equivalent caps can be purchased for way less. But you gotta know what they are and that means opening up the speaker and looking around and ordering. With the Regnar kit, order and do the cap change when the package arrives.
 
Will, be best to start a brand new thread in speakers with your specific quesiton for best results, but I'll say this about Regnar cap kits, folks like the results and they are expensive for what you get. Knowing what the caps are in the crossover, equivalent caps can be purchased for way less. But you gotta know what they are and that means opening up the speaker and looking around and ordering. With the Regnar kit, order and do the cap change when the package arrives.

I appreciate your insight, thanks!
 
I appreciate your insight, thanks!
Hello @sunvalleylaw and @Saeco, I too am a Dahlquist owner. My current setup is DM-907 speakers, Yamaha A-S501 integrated amp, Schiit Mani 2.0 phono preamp, and Music Hall mmf-5.3 turntable with Ortofon Blue cartridge. Just curious if either of you pulled the trigger on the capacitor upgrade for your Dahlquists?

Thanks!
Will
D9828C7E-99E5-4060-94A4-B54B71DC9702.jpeg

@WillJP

I did do the kits for both my DQM-9c and DQM-7c.
I really never got a good consistent before/after listen to compare, but both sets are sounding the best I’ve heard them. I might give the caps credit towards attributes like driver integration, detail and reduced graininess. I think the speakers already had excellent dynamics and timing!
You might save a few $$ by sourcing caps yourself, but since caps have different flavors, I somewhat figure Regnar did their listening and chose these….and I don’t mind supporting their service.
 
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