Help with NOS capacitors in vintage speakers

ChrisAZ

Active Member
I’ve been having a lot of fun refurbishing vintage speakers lately and have been recapping with 1% Dayton polys but have some (supposedly) NOS Russian capacitors that I’d like to experiment with. I’m planning on starting with a pair of KLH model 23’s which only have a single 4uf capacitor in each crossover. I figure they’ll be inexpensive and easy to experiment with.

Here’s some of my questions about this project:
(And yes I’m familiar with the controversial nature of the subject here, but already have these caps and want to do some experiments for myself for fun)

1) Because of the large size of the Russian caps, I’m going to need to add some lead wire. What type and size of wire do you suggest.

2) What about mounting?

3) I’ve done a lot of reading already about using these caps in crossovers and planned on starting with the big KBGs bypassed with the T-2 Teflons, but would like to hear your opinions and experiences. What combination of capacitors do you suggest and why?

4) I mentioned that all these caps were said to be ‘new’ old stock by the various sellers but I’m suspicious that some of them are not. For instance look at the closeup of the K75-10’s leads compared to the K73-16’s. The leads have some corrosion on the ends where they might have been soldered and look pretty bent up. What do you think? Does it really matter if they’ve been used?

5) Lastly, the seller that I got the two big 4uf KGB’s from sent two slightly different types (see pic). Is it crucial that these match exactly or are these two close enough?

Here’s some pics of the KLH’s. I sanded these down to bare wood and applied 5 coats of Watco natural danish oil, allowing it to dry 24 hours between coats. I think they came out great with this method.
upload_2019-2-16_10-55-33.jpeg
upload_2019-2-16_10-56-9.jpeg

And here’s the caps I have to experiment with
upload_2019-2-16_10-59-9.jpeg

KBG paper in oil. Notice the slight differences in the two.
upload_2019-2-16_10-59-49.jpeg

K73-10’s
upload_2019-2-16_11-13-14.jpeg

Notice the difference in the leads in this pic
upload_2019-2-16_11-0-25.jpeg
Silver mica for bypassing
upload_2019-2-16_11-1-13.jpeg
Teflon for bypassing,
upload_2019-2-16_11-1-37.jpeg
K73-16’s
upload_2019-2-16_11-8-1.jpeg
 
Why use NOS when you can buy new capacitors?

I can’t afford new paper and oil, silver mica, and Teflon caps. I’ve heard alot of discussion about sound differences in different caps and would like to experiment for myself. I already have these, so why not?
 
Wonder how the caps sound from best to worst.
I’ll be happy to report what I notice and my preferences but suspect the experiment could be a very long one. I have a lot of other projects going too. I didn’t really plan on comparing all possible combos on these speakers. Who knows though maybe I will.
 
:lurk: I'll get the popcorn. Been wondering how the caps change the sound. Just post as you get there with each type cap. Thanks ahead of time.
 
If you plan to compare capacitors, I'd wire some kind of selector switch outside the cabinet to switch between caps on the fly.

Then, mount the choosen cap inside the cabinet.

You can mount heavy caps at the bottom of the cabinet wiring with any wire similar to what it's in the speaker now.

You could also screw some kind of clamp to the cabinet and hold the capacitor closer to the tweeter.
 
The Russian paper in oil caps hold up very well. I've used them in several amp builds as coupling caps. Some claim they have a slight smearing effect, but I hadn't noticed any. I hadn't tried them in speakers get though.
 
I can’t afford new paper and oil, silver mica, and Teflon caps. I’ve heard alot of discussion about sound differences in different caps and would like to experiment for myself. I already have these, so why not?
I can understand that. Are you going to test them(and I don't mean in circuit or by listening)? They should be tested for capacitance, leakage and esr at least. If you don't, you may damage the coils as old thin copper does not like current.

I, personally, wouldn't use old caps. I wouldn't even use them in a vintage capacitor museum.
 
my understanding is russian stuff ain't bad. Those hd encapsulated look pretty well sealed, I wouldn't mind trying some myself.
btw.
Good looking work, too.
 
I use Russian capacitors in crossovers and in amps. I have used all of the caps you have pictured at one time or another. I just like the way they influence the sound.

It has been my experience that the PIOs in crossovers "soften" the sound as opposed to newer poly caps.

The bottom line is that they are inexpensive which is conducive to experimenting. Have fun with them.
 
If you plan to compare capacitors, I'd wire some kind of selector switch outside the cabinet to switch between caps on the fly.

Then, mount the choosen cap inside the cabinet.

You can mount heavy caps at the bottom of the cabinet wiring with any wire similar to what it's in the speaker now.

You could also screw some kind of clamp to the cabinet and hold the capacitor closer to the tweeter.
I’m considering the switch idea, thanks for your suggestions.
 
I can understand that. Are you going to test them(and I don't mean in circuit or by listening)? They should be tested for capacitance, leakage and esr at least. If you don't, you may damage the coils as old thin copper does not like current.

I, personally, wouldn't use old caps. I wouldn't even use them in a vintage capacitor museum.

I have a friend that can test for all of the above. I’ll give him a call.
 
forgot.. got a link to get some?
bink

I don’t want to recommend the eBay sellers I purchased mine from because I’m questioning their honesty about them being new.
All I did was research what other people were using and then looked for the best deals I could find on eBay.
 
If you plan to compare capacitors, I'd wire some kind of selector switch outside the cabinet to switch between caps on the fly.

Then, mount the choosen cap inside the cabinet.

You can mount heavy caps at the bottom of the cabinet wiring with any wire similar to what it's in the speaker now.

You could also screw some kind of clamp to the cabinet and hold the capacitor closer to the tweeter.

For testing a first order filter, I would drill two holes just large enough to pass each of the wires to and from the tweeter. Then you could easily connect what ever caps you want in series with the tweeter. Basically, you will have an external crossover for testing. Since you are on a budget, that would be much simpler and inexpensive than finding a suitable switch. It also allows you to listen to one cap within a short time of another cap - much less time than pulling the woofer, changing the wiring, and then reinstalling the woofer. When you are finished testing and ready to make your choice final, install the cap inside the cabinet and plug the holes.
 
For testing a first order filter, I would drill two holes just large enough to pass each of the wires to and from the tweeter. Then you could easily connect what ever caps you want in series with the tweeter. Basically, you will have an external crossover for testing. Since you are on a budget, that would be much simpler and inexpensive than finding a suitable switch. It also allows you to listen to one cap within a short time of another cap - much less time than pulling the woofer, changing the wiring, and then reinstalling the woofer. When you are finished testing and ready to make your choice final, install the cap inside the cabinet and plug the holes.
How expensive do you think a suitable switch would be?
 
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