How much vent room do most Fisher receivers need

RS Steve

Tube Junkie
Subscriber
I picked up a couple audio rack units to house my Fisher collection in, I was wondering if anyone has experience on what works for these tube receivers as far as ventilation goes. I posted some pictures of the unit I want to use for them. How much room above them is probably what I'm asking.
 

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Steve those look good, looks like they use dowels to hold the shelves in place? If you going to house Fisher gear on them I would reinforce those shelves from the bottom. Vent room looks ok to me..
 
NO LESS than 3" from the top of the unit to the next shelf.

Al, Depends on the dowels. Wood Dowels yeah, I would re-inforce. Metal pins, no need.
 
They have metal dowels holding the shelves, but I plan on using a couple screws from the back to help secure them. I probably will not have them all hooked up and usable at one time, I'll have to see how it all fits. There will not be 3" at the top using all 3 shelves, I might just go with 2 shelves plus the bottum. That would give me 4 units if I use the top also, I'll probably use the top of one rack for a turntable though.
 
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Let elaborate.
TUBE GEAR (Cased or naked) NLT 3" from top of unit.

Solid State; This is personal experience...
Above 70WPC NLT 2" from top of Unit.
Below 70WPC or Large units that run cool NLT than 1" from top of unit.

Obviously the more room the better the convection works to remove the heat.

Fans near the rack will move air around it and help with the convection.
 
The best I can get using two shelves spaced evenly is 9.5" of area, most of my Fishers measure 7" tall, so that gives me 2.5" of air space above. My 500-C is 7.5" tall, so it will go on top. I will incorporate a fan on the back to help out, should work great for keeping all the Fishers running great. Thanks for the help everyone. :thmbsp:
 

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RS; You should be ok with that. With the open back and sides that helps with convective flow.
 
Thanks Larry, looks like they will fit real nice and I will have them all in one place. The hard part is deciding the pecking order, and routing the wires. :scratch2:
 

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Now I have the cabinets set up in my tube room, everything works out great. :thmbsp:
 

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Looks good. If you have an IR Thermometer turn each unit on (one at a time), let them run for an hour and take temps at 15 minute intervals. When the temp stabilizes, let it run for another hour to make sure it stays stable. Write them down, and occasionally while you are using them, check. (3-4 times a year should be sufficient). Keep a log for each of them, and it'll show if they start heating up that there is a problem and you can catch it early. Let's just hope they don't.
 
How wide is the center opening in the back? A small fan there could help quite a bit. I use some small computer fans (12V) in my audio rack, running from a variable voltage (3, 4.5, 6, 9V) wall wart. A 60W integrated tube amp heats the living room pretty well...
 
How wide is the center opening in the back? A small fan there could help quite a bit. I use some small computer fans (12V) in my audio rack, running from a variable voltage (3, 4.5, 6, 9V) wall wart. A 60W integrated tube amp heats the living room pretty well...

Yeah, the slot in the back is just wide enough for a few models of fans, I'm looking to do that in the near future. For now I just turn the ceiling fan on high, it moves the air quite well.
 
Sorry RS Steve but that gear deserves a better picture than the fussy one you posted :)

Are those Klipsch Belles? Very nice!
 
Sorry RS Steve but that gear deserves a better picture than the fussy one you posted :)

Are those Klipsch Belles? Very nice!

Your wish is my command! :D

Yes, those are my newly aquired Belle's, they are unbelievable paired with my TA-800 Fisher. :thmbsp:
 

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Just set up my Nexera Jasper rack

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I'd like to revive this thread and ask the same question regarding a Sherwood S8000IV running 7868's. I want to put it in a cabinet that doesn't have a whole lot of overhead but the back is open so that the power tubes can still vent out freely. The back of the receiver is about 4 inches away from the outside. It seems to me the metal case was made to act as a heat sink and it soaks up all the heat from the transformers. It does have some thin vents on the top of the case, though. For a unit like this, is it more important to have an open top or open back? I figure that with a fan it would probably be ok, but wanted to get a consensus about the tight quarters/open back. Pictures below. Thanks in advance, all!


IMG_2487.JPG IMG_2490.JPG
 
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Looks good as is. If you DO put a fan back there, install it so it pulls air FROM the Sherwood. That will pull air over the top of the chimney and help cools down the unit. Pushing air in will un-neccessarily add hot air to the front area of the unit. The "HOT" area of the Sherwood is the Chimney area With the case on along with the chimney, will tend to concentrate the heat on the back side. So any air flow should come from the front to the back. Which is why I said a fan on the back should pull air FROM the Sherwood instead of pushing air to the Sherwood.

Larry
 
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