How to clean a tuner (analog)

Discussion in 'Tuners' started by dr*audio, Jan 17, 2008.

  1. Puddintane

    Puddintane AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Does anyone know which of these CRC products is the correct substitute for nonresidue contact cleaner or the Faderlube that's been recommended? They have one in a red can that's called QD electronic cleaner, one in a green can called contact cleaner and protectant , and then one in a blue can that's called QD contact cleaner. I think I can find all of those locally today rather than have to mail order something and wait a week. I think that the QD stands for quick drying.
     

     

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  2. Puddintane

    Puddintane AK Subscriber Subscriber

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  3. dr*audio

    dr*audio Fish fingers and custard!

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    I looked on their website. I think any of the ones that say they are ok for plastics will be safe to use in a tuner but they use much harsher chemicals than the Caig stuff and I'd worry about health effects. Use with really good ventilation, like in an open garage with a fan blowing out the door.
     
  4. Puddintane

    Puddintane AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I googled Deoxit and came across this video. You can skip ahead to about 12:50 for something interesting that relates to this whole thread.
     
  5. jleon92f

    jleon92f Addicted Member

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    Thanks for the information. I checked my tuner section capacitor. It had some green funk on the brass shaft. I cleaned it off, waiting for it to dry.
    John. :music::thumbsup: 100_8935.JPG 100_8936.JPG
     
  6. Puddintane

    Puddintane AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    So is this something that doesn't need to be done if the radio seems to be working okay, or should it be part of a typical cleaning regime for any vintage receiver (esp. one that's extra scuzzy inside)? I.e., "If it ain't broke don't fix it." It sounds as though it might sometimes actually foul things up, even when done correctly.
     

     

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  7. Puddintane

    Puddintane AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Had to use a Q-Tip and then a toothbrush to get the green crud and other oxidation off the shaft after using the CRC Electronic Cleaner. Most of it is gone, but what about the leftover bits that remain on the shaft between the fins (second pic)? Can't figure out how to get in there with anything without touching the fins a bit. Super-skinny toothpick? String? Does it matter? Proceed with the Faderlube on the contact points and not worry about it?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2017
  8. Elemental

    Elemental New Member

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    I also had the classic tuning problems on my McIntosh Mx100: weak FM reception with distortion and unstable tuning including loud whooping sounds when going across the dial. After reading this thread I inspected the tuning capacitor (this involved removing the bottom chassis cover and the cover over the mixer coil to access all three screws securing the tuning capacitor cage). Found spider webs, dog hairs, and plenty of dust - don't know how it got in there but unit is around 50 years old. I followed dr*audio's instructions verbatim except, not having Faderlube, I risked it using DeOxit Gold G5 to lubricate (only) the shaft bearings and brushes. RESOUNDING SUCCESS! FM reception is now outstanding - no noise or distortion, tuning dial accurate, quiet tuning between stations, good stereo with appropriate MPX light illumination. Now I don't have to ship it off for another alignment! Thanks for the help.
     
  9. Lcruzrheaven

    Lcruzrheaven New Member

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    Wow,great info,so whats the smell outta my great playn 5900Z Sansui? A wonderful vintage smell,as Carlos plays...Happy New Yr! Peter
     
  10. txturbo

    txturbo AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I have been working cleaning the cap on a Martantz ST-7 Tuner. You could see on the scope the signal bouncing up and down as the dial is moved due to the intermittent contact made between the shaft and the ground wipers.

    I have followed the listed procedure many times in the past and keep trying to refine it.

    I think that a common issue is that many of the tuning caps were originally lubricated with a green conductive grease of some kind.

    The DeoxIT breaks down some of the properties of the grease and then when the zero residue cleaner is used it dries out what is left of the grease, leaving loose tiny chunks. Depending on your eyesight you may not even be able to see them. o_O

    To get the rest of the crap off requires repeated use of the cleaning agents along with some mechanical removal. I have used a pipe cleaner very carefully to break some of the stuff free.


    After initial D100, and zero residue cleaner 3 times:
    [​IMG]

    This is a close up of one of the ground connections, not so good!

    [​IMG]


    I carefully use a pipe cleaner, gently place it up against the shaft and rotate the knob a few times, breaking free all of the old dried up grease. Do not jam it in place, be gentle!
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Crap on the end of the pipe cleaner:
    [​IMG]

    After cleaning close up:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Once it's clean I use a pointed sponge type q-tip. This allows very precise application of the fader lube.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    My concern with the lubricant is that it will not last. It would be great to know what the original lube was.
     
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  11. gizzyman47

    gizzyman47 Super Member

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