Discussion in 'Fisher Forum Stickies' started by audiodon, Nov 27, 2011.
Thanks golden___ Oops, I mean Don.
Thanks Don great thread will be reading.
Thanks Don! :thmbsp:
Great reference if ever I get another tube gear in the future...:yes:
I think it is wonderful what you are doing here (taking the time), but I would respectfully submit that one NEVER use ammonia or ammonia based products (Windex) to clean plastics.
Most especially on well aged, well out gassed plastics.
A one time event as you describe will in all likelihood cause no problems, and I'm not picking at your technique.
Ammonia can have a "drying" effect on plastics; suffice it to say, without going all in to it.
That is why it is NOT recommended for cleaning plastic eye glass lenses.
I have had ammonia solutions cause white spots on dark plastics.
To be safe (and it does an excellent job) use "Dawn", (obviously my favorite and I think the best) or similar, liquid dish washing soap.
I also use "Dawn" on face plates and dial rulers.
Fair enough. Thanks for the feedback.
I've made the changes.
Thanks for the in-depth wright up.
Leave the tooth brush part, absolutely! Indispensable. I used to soak knobs, but be prepared with your glue; soaking (causes no harm) but often leads to helping the old glue let go on your "brights".
I just stand at the sink with warm water running slowly, lather them with "Dawn" and brush the Hell out of 'em.
The first run the lather will often come up with a hint of the color of the plastic. It really did on my 500-C project.
It's not damaging; the mild soap is removing the "dead" plastic molecules on top. You will be left with a knob that has a nice healthy luster, as new. It really is an amazing transformation. Soap 'n' Water are my best friends.
I thought my Fisher knobs were going to just be dull, dried out shit brown, not the case.
I did use YOUR ammonia/water ratio to clean my chassis; SUPERB outcome. Couldn't stick that chassis under the faucet and the ammonia leaves no residue. I used to use alcohols (OK results), your solution works better, cheaper and will remove organic dirt that alcohol will not.
Great thread and timely too.
I recently acquired a pair of Eico HF-22 mono blocks that are totally disassembled. Everything is getting new paint.
Your info on painting the xfmrs spurred me to paint the bells on the power xfmr black and the fins the same as the chassis' hammmered metal finish...ought to be a great look.:thmbsp:
Thanks, as usual.
P.s. My 800c is playing flawlessly! :thmbsp:
I've been following that thread. You have courage. I haven't attempted a gut and rehab yet, but I have plans to.
I think this is close to being done.
I plan to put the thumbnail pictures in the front and complete reassembly.
Can anybody think of anything I've missed . . . other than reassembly, which I plan to complete? Is there something you'd like to see added or things to do differently?
Don, this is just an outstanding thread! Thanks for the time and commitment that was obviously necessary.
It's interesting how many of your suggestions are ones that I've settled on as well! I love those little dental brushes for cleaning tube sockets. Pipe cleaners work very well for larger sockets, and I used to be able to find some that had stiff little scrubby bristles among the softer fuzz. I usually use newspaper tucked around and under transformers, but paper towels are perfect, too!
Great how to Don.
Thanks for posting this. Quite timely, as I have an old Coronado AM/SW condole that was built in '42 and appears to have dust, crud, etc, from that era. I plan on doing a complete resto [ see http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=404292 ] after the holidays.
WOW. "Thorough" doesn't even begin to describe it! If/when I am able to get at the guts of the 500-B in our monster console, this will be printed out and ready at hand. A bit intimidating, though.... I thought I could probably do it by following along until I got to the "Chassis cleaning 2: Clean the potentiometers, rotary switches and switches" part and accompanying graphic. That's where my eyes bugged out and I thought "You touch this and it will never work again. What ARE all these parts/wires, anyway???"
I wish I knew of someone in my neck of the woods who could be hired to do this with as much care as you showed. I'd be one very happy customer!
It's just a rats nest in there. You won't be disconnecting anything, just spraying and rotating potentiometers.
Even with factory wiring it's messy.
I just wanted to point out where you spray when you do it. There's an open section or two in each pot you can spray into.
I got hold of some of those Dentist files they use for a root canall:tears: and use those to clean the tube sockets.:yes:
I've had pretty good results cleaning the inside contacts of RCA jacks with pipe cleaners. I usually fold 'em tightly to get a little extra bulk, and spray 'em with Deoxit before going in. Repeat until they come out clean. Some brands tend to leave lint behind, but that's pretty easy to deal with.
Thanks for this post! I just picked up a 500C and this will be quite helpful!!
Loved the section about waxing the faceplate. Makes the patina absolutely uniform and spotless. Waxed a Yamaha CA-610 II plate today after cleaningper your direction, and it looks like new. Fisher 440T gets waxed next time she's opened up.
Yamaha's lettering is tougher than Mr. Fisher's. Cabinet is infinitely cheaper.
Becoming psychotic for old audio, I am respectfully,
Wow! Great thread!
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