MG is another good one. :thmbsp:
...I had a tough time finding Brasso a few years ago. I still have some in the old metal can.
Thank you very much Larry! My Condolences about Don. This is extremely helpful and will report back with pics!Theron; Don passed about 3 yrs ago. Follow suggestions in post #69 and in Madwing's pdf in post 72 this thread. A rinse with a garden hose 1st. Won't hurt it because you're gonna dry it out in front of a fan for a couple days after letting it "sunburn". As for the rust, get some "NAVAL JELLY" or rust converter.
1.) Remove the tubes, marking them for position per the manual. (ie: V1, V2, V3 etc). Put them in a safe place.
2.) Remove the bottom panel. (it's gonna get wet, so makes it easier to drain and dry.
With the UNIT on IT's SIDE (power tranny DOWN)
Clean the mouse piss off with the scrubbing bubbles and a 1 to 1-1/2" chip brush. Don't be shy about it. Flush with water from the hose. Try to keep as much water out of the IF /RF tuning coil towers as possible (tape off the holes and spot clean as needed). If you have compressor, hook up the blow gun and give EVERYTHING a decent blast, TOP TO BOTTOM.
Now you can get the Rust converter out and follow directions on the jar. Try to keep it out of the tuning capacitor (you'll clean this later by pulling the cover off). Rinse off with a heavy spray from the hose, (again top to bottom.) Blow it down with air. Then prop up one side so the top of the unit is about 45* and facing the sun for the afternoon. A small fan blowing toward the underside will help with any condensation underneath. When the sun drops, put it on a bench on it's side, and let the fan hit it overnight. Get the wife's ok for this next part (unless you have a spare oven in the garage she don't care about). Place the unit in the oven (UPSIDE DOWN!), set temp for the absolute LOWEST SETTING (170*F is usual), and bake it for about 4-6 hours. As it's been literally out in the open (in Md. summers) for 30 years, you want to literally bake out any residual moisture in the transformers. Moisture/steam will escape from the wiring holes (that are now on top). Let it cool down with some fan support.
Remove the small cover over the Tuning cap. You'll need a 1/4" nut driver for this as you have to remove the cover underneath, and 2 nuts in the RF section IIRC. Get a can of CRC QD Electronics CONTACT CLEANER (Home Depot in Electrical Dept). UN-MESH the leaves on the cap (turn the tuning dial knob), and spray the contact cleaner on the leaves heavily. Let dry, while you clean the cover.
The pitting of the chassis is inevitable. Tape off the tube sockets, transformers. Automotive Gray primer then Rustoleum or Krylon Silver. Don't use the chrome stuff. Hi-Heat engine paint will reject the heat from the tubes better, but the normal rattle can paint does well. You want a buff (semi flat) finish. Use a Dymo label maker (small font) to make labels for all the tubes. Trim down to just the lettering and place next to each tube for ID.
You can take off the transformers (take plenty of pictures of the wiring and where it goes for each, plus make a diagram on paper for back up.) and paint them black. Semi gloss or gloss (depending on taste). After color coat and labeling, a light clear coat will seal all of it. Aftr painting let it dry and "DE-GAS"/Bake out in the sun for a couple days.
While you have them out, test all your tubes. Replace any that show shorts or weak. 12ax7's are twin triode so there are 2 tubes in one envelope. They should be close for emissions and or gm (if you have a gm tester.). If a basic emissions tester make sure they test in the good range. Clean the pins with DeOxit and a small handheld brass brush. Tube sockets use DeOxit and an InterDental Brush (braces brush).
1st power up. Make yourself a DBT (Dim Bulb tester (Google it)). Use a 100W bulb. Put all tubes in, connect a cheap, disposable pair of speakers (8ohm) and power it up. If no problems the bulb will light up brightly and within a second or 2 dim down. If not, TURN IT OFF! Now the troubleshooting begins.
Get it cleaned up, and report progress (with pics).
Larry