how to remove stripped screw from Pioneer SX 636

pdxtim

pdxtim

Well-Known Member
Decided I wanted to clean the faceplate on flea market Pioneer SX 636 and stripped one of the small flippin silver screws holding faceplate to frame. What's best way to get screw out? The first picture is the stripped screw, the other pic is the screw on other side. Thanks in advance for any help.
20170629_172637.jpg 20170629_172657.jpg
 
I have sometimes used a Dremel tool to mill or grind a couple of shallow slots in the screw head that allow a blade screwdriver to work in cases like this.
 
An extractor tool may work. If not, you can bore out the stripped screw with a thin steel drill bit. This method is tedious work -- use a new/sharp drill bit and vacuum as you go to collect the metal fibers. If you can, affix the vacuum hose near the drill site or have someone hold it in place.
 
LH drill bit, and for the rest, invest in some JIS screwdrivers or bits. That's what the dot on the screw head means, it's not a Phillips.
 
N8Nagel said:
LH drill bit, and for the rest, invest in some JIS screwdrivers or bits. That's what the dot on the screw head means, it's not a Phillips.
Click to expand...
Dang, never heard of JIS bits. Thanks for the info. I do some work on my bikes, it looks like they're used in that capacity too. Thanks!
 
Probably fine. My JIS stuff is a set of Vessel bits - my screwdriver of choice is a Snap-On bit holder.

I need to run out for a bit but if you need part numbers I can look up the exact numbers I bought later. I also bought some PB Swiss Pozidriv bits at the same time. This was the result of some OCD style research into what were the best products as Snap-On doesn't offer JIS. For the rest I just have a Harbor Freight huge bit kit because for $6 when they wear out I just buy another.
 
https://www.vesseltools.com/industrial-bits/bit-sets

I ordered 1 of A-16621 and 1 of A-16479 that gives you one of P0 and P3 and two of P1 and P2 (the sizes you're going to use most anyway) - I actually ordered three of each though, one for me, one for SWMBO, and one for her son who I gave tools for Christmas one year because he didn't have any.

I have no idea why they call them Phillips on the site, they are JIS - but they are better than Phillips bits for Phillips screws. Seriously.

I use this guy to hold them

https://store.snapon.com/Standard-H...-Magnetic-Standard-Orange-8-3-4--P634146.aspx

but if you're not a "power user" there is a knockoff Craftsman version that is a lot less expensive that isn't bad, the main differences being that a) the Craftsman ratchet has a lot more backdrag and b) the selector works opposite of Snap-On meaning if you have the SO matching stubby you'll want the SO big one so as not to confuse yourself.

If you prefer individual screwdrivers instead of a bit holder, I don't doubt that Vessel screwdrivers are good as well.
 
N8Nagel said:
https://www.vesseltools.com/industrial-bits/bit-sets

I ordered 1 of A-16621 and 1 of A-16479 that gives you one of P0 and P3 and two of P1 and P2 (the sizes you're going to use most anyway) - I actually ordered three of each though, one for me, one for SWMBO, and one for her son who I gave tools for Christmas one year because he didn't have any.

I have no idea why they call them Phillips on the site, they are JIS - but they are better than Phillips bits for Phillips screws. Seriously.

I use this guy to hold them

https://store.snapon.com/Standard-H...-Magnetic-Standard-Orange-8-3-4--P634146.aspx

but if you're not a "power user" there is a knockoff Craftsman version that is a lot less expensive that isn't bad, the main differences being that a) the Craftsman ratchet has a lot more backdrag and b) the selector works opposite of Snap-On meaning if you have the SO matching stubby you'll want the SO big one so as not to confuse yourself.

If you prefer individual screwdrivers instead of a bit holder, I don't doubt that Vessel screwdrivers are good as well.
Click to expand...
Looks good, thanks again!
 
For the record:

svh1c4.jpg
 
^yeah what he said.

I don't know why the existence of JIS is not more widely known here, but it seems to have been pretty widely used on Japanese cars, motorcycles, and audio gear... and people have been cussing "those cheap Japanese screw heads" when in reality they are using a superior but incompatible standard. The right drivers make you a believer that they actually knew what they were doing, save for making it look close enough to a Phillips to allow bad things to happen.
 
personally I think its all a conspiracy to make us buy more tools. Why else would you make a fastener that is almost the same as another, but just different enough to not work.
 
Also, if you dont have a set of those screwdrivers mentioned above, or a set of screw extractors, I have had great success with applying heat from a 100+ watt soldering gun to the head of the screw and then sharply rapping the head of a screwdriver repeatedly as you apply a lot of downward pressure as you twist counterclowise. The heat will help to break the bond between the hot screw threads and the relatively cool chassis. If you get the screw to back you, dont try to catch it if it falls. :mad:
 
Never heard of JIS! Now I'm gonna blow the long weekend looking at screws in all my gear.

This set looks interesting. I've bought stuff from iFixit before with good results.

The only question I have is whether the JIS sizes are appropriate for old stereo gear: JIS - J000, J00, J0, J1

"Life is a learning experience, only if you learn."
Yogi Berra
 
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