Partly that plus the larger physical dimensions of the MC2105 I would think.
How to safely pack and ship used McIntosh
- Thread starter ron-c
- Start date
Partly that plus the larger physical dimensions of the MC2105 I would think.
blhagstrom
Mad Scientist, fixer.
Nothing better than a factory shipping carton.
But, lacking that or if they are not available I would not go to bubble wrap unless you use heavy duty industrial stuff and a LOT of it.
Styrofoam peanuts are only good to fill between inner and outer boxes and you need at least 2-3 inches on ALL sides and packed tightly.
At one job, they ship expensive heavy test equipment. The boxes are sturdy, double layer cardboard. Lowes sells the heavy duty boxes for a few bucks.
Pelican cases get used a lot but are spendy.
Soft styrofoam sheet used for insulation is good as a cushion material to absorb impact.
Hard styrofoam like in medical or sushi coolers is good for corner bracing and protection,
Expanding foam packing is used a lot on heavy test gear and works great on heavy stereo gear. Access to that equipment is difficult. DO NOT get any of that goo on anything you like.
The expanded plastic stuff I call polystyrene is my favorite. Easy and clean to cut. I salvaged a lot at work. There is black stuff used in computer shipping and the white stuff used a lot in other electronics shipping. Outside of access to industry that is tossing it, you can get pool noodles fairly cheap. I’ve seen them at $1 stores for $1.
Pool noodles are great to cut length wise to make corner protectors. A layer of noodles side by side is a tough cushioning bed that can take a drop. Put a layer on every side, like between inner and outer boxes and your golden.
Foam rubber is another great packing material. It’s heavy but great for glass sides. I scavenge that out of old furniture. Big couch cushions produce nice large blocks.
I scored a long straight prime rib roast knife at a thrift store in Vegas. Best damn foam rubber cutting tool ever. Hot wires work great on styrofoam to avoid a mess. I made some from old tube gear transformers. The 6V heater winding works great. I happen to have some thin stainless steel wire so I didn’t need to get the actual heating element type wire yet.
I ship a lot and developed a lot of tricks.
On my to-do list is to post a thread about how to.
But, lacking that or if they are not available I would not go to bubble wrap unless you use heavy duty industrial stuff and a LOT of it.
Styrofoam peanuts are only good to fill between inner and outer boxes and you need at least 2-3 inches on ALL sides and packed tightly.
At one job, they ship expensive heavy test equipment. The boxes are sturdy, double layer cardboard. Lowes sells the heavy duty boxes for a few bucks.
Pelican cases get used a lot but are spendy.
Soft styrofoam sheet used for insulation is good as a cushion material to absorb impact.
Hard styrofoam like in medical or sushi coolers is good for corner bracing and protection,
Expanding foam packing is used a lot on heavy test gear and works great on heavy stereo gear. Access to that equipment is difficult. DO NOT get any of that goo on anything you like.
The expanded plastic stuff I call polystyrene is my favorite. Easy and clean to cut. I salvaged a lot at work. There is black stuff used in computer shipping and the white stuff used a lot in other electronics shipping. Outside of access to industry that is tossing it, you can get pool noodles fairly cheap. I’ve seen them at $1 stores for $1.
Pool noodles are great to cut length wise to make corner protectors. A layer of noodles side by side is a tough cushioning bed that can take a drop. Put a layer on every side, like between inner and outer boxes and your golden.
Foam rubber is another great packing material. It’s heavy but great for glass sides. I scavenge that out of old furniture. Big couch cushions produce nice large blocks.
I scored a long straight prime rib roast knife at a thrift store in Vegas. Best damn foam rubber cutting tool ever. Hot wires work great on styrofoam to avoid a mess. I made some from old tube gear transformers. The 6V heater winding works great. I happen to have some thin stainless steel wire so I didn’t need to get the actual heating element type wire yet.
I ship a lot and developed a lot of tricks.
On my to-do list is to post a thread about how to.
thevinoman
Nothin' but the Blues...
Received the box, and shipped the unit to Texas. Arrived in perfect shape.
I will probably be selling my MC-402 as I just purchased an MC-452. I do have the original Mac box. My question is what is the best way to secure
the outside box. Is there an easy way to do strapping? Is strapping the box to a pallet necessary or suggested? Thanks for any insights
the outside box. Is there an easy way to do strapping? Is strapping the box to a pallet necessary or suggested? Thanks for any insights
d16rr702
Active Member
I shipped my MC7270 from Manila to California via DHL, 90lbs
I used the original Mc double box.
Outer box was a bit water damaged over the years but the internal box and corner foams was in good shape.
The box arrived sideways... But... Zero damage.
The overall box design and many details are key
As previously mentioned. Feet are a must. So is the wood base with the 3 screws and the top chassis cardboard oriented correctly to protect the glass.
McIntosh designed the box right.
I used the original Mc double box.
Outer box was a bit water damaged over the years but the internal box and corner foams was in good shape.
The box arrived sideways... But... Zero damage.
The overall box design and many details are key
As previously mentioned. Feet are a must. So is the wood base with the 3 screws and the top chassis cardboard oriented correctly to protect the glass.
McIntosh designed the box right.
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McGuyDF
New Member
if you are just moving but not shipping it, I've done it just by putting it in my trunk, with blankets and towels are around it, and driving carefully. Otherwise, best bet is to order a box set from McIntosh - it will be more expensive than the usual box sets due to the size and all of the cushioning that comes from the factory. Crazy amount of foam inserts etc. but worth it for piece of mind if you're driving far
If it's in a wood cabinet, remove it from the cabinet first. Two reasons:
The wood cabinet adds weight
The amp can slide out of the wood cabinet if tilted
The wood cabinet adds weight
The amp can slide out of the wood cabinet if tilted
