How to Salvage a Marantz TT dust cover badge

Goodin

New Member
There are a few Ebay sellers that offer replica dust covers for Marantz turntables. They are high quality and look great, but they don't have a Marantz badge like what is on the original.

You may be replacing the original dust cover because it is cracked, chipped, scratched up, and otherwise not useful anymore. Before you throw it away you might consider salvaging the Marantz badges to put on the replica dust cover (there are two, one on top and one underneath). Here is how to do it.

Ok I'll be up front: this will require some special tools to do it correctly but I will explain how you COULD do it with minimal special tooling. (EDIT: See steerpike2's post below to most likely do in place of steps 1-3). A well outfitted basement woodworking shop will have the tools you need. If you don't have such a shop, perhaps a neighbor or buddy can help you out.

Tools needed:
Dremel Tool
Block plane
Band saw (or thin kerf hand saw)
combination square
hair dryer
Exacto knife
box cutter knife blade

Materials needed:
blue painters tape (or similar)
fine sand paper (~320-400 grit)
thin double stick tape

Here we go...
EDIT: See steerpike2's post below to most likely do in place of steps 1-3.

Here is my Marantz 6300 turntable dust cover. As you can see, it is cracked and chipped beyond repair so I decided to get a new replica dust cover.
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1. Use a Dremel tool with a straight bit to cut out the badge. Leave a some extra on one side to help safely guide the cut-out piece through the band saw (or hold in a clamp for a hand saw - see step 3 option).
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2. Use a block plane to true up one edge of the piece you just cut out so it will ride easily on the band saw table.
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3. Carefully line up the fence on the band saw and cut the piece right down the middle to release each badge (aluminum on top, and a black badge directly beneath on the underside).

OPTION: If you don't have a bandsaw you could use a thin kerf hand saw.
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4. The badges are held on with double stick tape. Use a hair dryer on the hot setting to help release the glue on the tape and carefully pry off the badge from the plastic.

OPTION: You can skip steps 1-3 and attempt to pry off the badges with a box cutter, and hair dryer to loosen the glue. I don't recommend doing this because the badges are tightly held in place and there is little room to get the box cutter around the edges to pry up the badge. It would be easy to scratch the badge doing this...but if you don't have the proper tools, this might be worth a shot. OR use steerpike2's method below.
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5. Use a sharp box cutter blade to remove the old tape on the back of the badges. Use a hair dryer to help loosen the glue. Use fine sandpaper to remove any excess tape/glue remaining being careful not to round the edges/corners. You could skip this step, just make sure there aren't any boogers of glue (the bottom of the badge needs to be flat)...but keep in mind that part of the underside of the top badge will show on the underside of the dust cover because the underside badge is smaller.
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Looks like I have maxed out the amount of pictures I can post. To be continued...
 
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I poured a bit of turpentine (artists white spirit) in & around the badge. Leave for 3 to 4 hours to soak, & the badge will lift right out. If it is difficult to get a hold on it, just wipe the badge surface clean & then use ahesive tape to pull on it.
 
Pic of the underside of the badge cleaned up with sandpaper. I used 220 grit here but probably should of used 320-400 grit so the scratches are smaller.
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6. Apply the badges on double stick tape and cut out with an exacto knife.
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7. Center the top badge (the aluminum one) on the top of the new replica dust cover. You could just eyeball this but if you want to make sure it's in the right place and not crooked you will need to measure. Use a combination square to measure and square it up in the center. Once it's centered, place blue painters tape on two adjacent edges for alignment when you stick on the badge (note the blue painters tape at various places on the top. I did that to make sure the edge of my combination square doesn't scratch the top. Probably not necessary, just be sure you don't scratch the top with the corner of the c. square). Now stick on the badge using the blue painters tape for alignment.

The underside badge (the black one) is simply placed under the top badge. Just make sure when you lift the lid the underside badge letters are upright. Use blue painters tape to line up the badge like was done on the top but no need to measure since the top badge will help center it.
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8. Remove the painters tape, step back and enjoy your newly badged dust cover!
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Final pics to come...
 
Now the replica dust cover could pass for an original (well if only it was tinted). Looks great with the Marantz badge!

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I poured a bit of turpentine (artists white spirit) in & around the badge. Leave for 3 to 4 hours to soak, & the badge will lift right out. If it is difficult to get a hold on it, just wipe the badge surface clean & then use ahesive tape to pull on it.


Good thinking steerpike2. My way of doing it is the thought process of a woodworker/luthier/instrument repair guy. Your way is obviously easier.
 
I've been looking for a good way to do this, as I've been eyeing those replica covers. This looks like something I can do. Thanks for the tutorial.
 
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