HQMC Phono Stage and Simple PSU Help Desk

[HypnoToad]

Help desk for the High Quality MC Phono Stage and Simple PSU

PCB's only available in Barter Town Parts for AK Subscribers Only

HQMCPS BOM

Qty X Mouser Part Number / Description

4 X 575-21043380 / IC & Component Sockets 8P SOLDER

2 X 505-M102.2/250/5 / Film Capacitors 250V 2.2uF 5% PCM27.5

8 X 71-RN60D-F-10 / Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 10ohms
4 X 71-RN60D-F-200K / Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 200Kohms 1% 100ppm
4 X 71-RN60D47R0F / Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 47ohms 1% 100ppm
4 X 71-RN60D3900F / Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 390ohms 1% 100ppm
2 X 71-RN60D-F-16K / Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 16Kohms 1% 100ppm

2 X 505-FKP20.015/63/2.5 / Pulse Film Capacitors 63V .015uF 2.5%
2 X 505-FKP24700/63/2.5 / Pulse Film Capacitors 63V 4700pF 2.5%
2 X 505-MKP20.033/100/5 / Film Capacitors 100volts 0.033uf 5% LS 5mm (Optional)
8 X 667-EEU-FC1V101 / Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 100uF 35V
12 X 594-K104K15X7RF5TL2 / Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors Leaded 0.1uF 50volts 10% X7R 2.5mm LS

2 X 652-3296Y-1-102LF / TRIMMER 1K OHM 0.5W TH
2 X 652-3296Y-1-202LF / TRIMMER 2K OHM 0.5W TH
2 X 80-PFR5221J100J11L4 / Film Capacitors 100volts 220pF 5% LS 5mm

2 X 926-LME49990MA/NOPB / OPAMP AUDIO LOW NOISE 8SOIC

2 X 584-AD797ANZ / OPAMP ULTRA LOW NOISE OP AMP IC

Off Board Components

1 X 696-SSL-LX5093IT / Standard RED LED - Through Hole HIR
1 X 71-RN60D-F-8.2K / LED Current Limiting Metal Film Resistor 8.2kohms
2 X 568-NYS367-9 / Phono (RCA) Connectors RCA PANEL JACK GOLD/WHITE REAN
2 X 568-NYS367-2 / Phono (RCA) Connectors RCA PANEL JACK GOLD/RED REAN
1 X 530-111-2223-001 / Ground Binding Post Nickel
1 X 691-2M1-DP1-T1B1M1QE / Mini Toggle Switch
4 X 534-8846 / 4mm X 8mm Standoffs for PCB




Simple Power Supply BOM

Qty X Mouser P/N > Description


4 X 652-RLB9012-103KL > Fixed Inductors 10000uH 10% .17A

1 X 163-R123B-E > DC Power Connectors PANEL MOUNT 2.1MM

1 X 553-WAU12-1000 > Plug-In AC Adapters 120 to 12VAC 1.0A 17W

4 X 647-UPW1E222MHD > 2200UF 25V ELECT Nichicon 16mm
2 X 667-EEU-FM1E221 > 220UF 25V ELECT FM
6 X 594-K104K15X7RF5TL2 > Capacitors Leaded 0.1uF 50volts 10% X7R 2.5mm LS

2 X 71-CPF15R0000FEE14 > Metal Film Resistors - 1watts 5ohms
2 X 71-CCF60-100-E3 > Metal Film Resistors - 1watts 100ohms
1 X 71-RN60D-F-8.2K > Metal Film Resistor - 1/4watt 8.2k

1 X 512-LM317T > Linear Regulator
1 X 512-LM337T > Linear Regulator

4 X 512-1N4007 > Diodes

2 X 652-3296Y-1-202LF > Trimmer 2k 25 turn

1 X 696-SSL-LX5093IT > Standard RED LED - Through Hole HIR

1 X 691-2M1-SP1-T1B1M1QE > Mini Toggle Switch

4 X 534-8846 > 4mm X 8mm Standoffs for PCB

----------------------------------------------------------

Mini XLR's if needed:

? X 568-RT3FC-B > 3P TINY XLR FEMALE BLK SHELL
? X 568-RT3MP-B > 3P TINY XLR MALE PNL BLK SHELL,

 

[HypnoToad]

Op Amp Adaptors

For those wanting the LME49990 op amps already soldered to adapters, members have recommended these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-LME49990-DIP8-ADAPTERS-/190897296160?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item2c725d9320

For just the adapters so you can solder your own op amps on, these are the type you need. Don't get dual adapters or the ones with square legs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-SOP8-SO8-SOIC8-SOT-to-DIP8-adapter-PCB-convertor-/320824918111?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item4ab2a7c05f


No Affiliation with either.

 

[MRL_Audio]

The following part number is a not found on mouser. Please advise.

1 X 737-EBC-03-E / 3pin 7mm Pitch Terminal Blocks

Also - can someone recommend a reasonable case for this from Mouser or any other source. Thanks.

 

[HypnoToad]

The following part number is a not found on mouser. Please advise.

1 X 737-EBC-03-E / 3pin 7mm Pitch Terminal Blocks

Also - can someone recommend a reasonable case for this from Mouser or any other source. Thanks.

Mouser must have stopped carrying these I can't find any on there site with 7mm pitch, they have them at Digikey, P/N ED1535-ND

All is not lost you don't really need them, the wires can be soldered directly through holes in the board which makes a better connection IMO.

If you have a Frys Electronics nearby then the Context 4012 project case is ideal for the HQMCPS and the Context 3008 project case is ideal for the SPS.

Others will chime in with what they used.

 

[dodog]

Can you explain the MC board a bit (I'm cornfused):

Is the LED now board-mounted or was that supposed to be part of the lopped-off portion of the power supply PCB? It looks like R34 is the limiting resistor for the LED, and all of that used to run directly off the switch on your other builds. Neat, if that's what that really is.

 

[HypnoToad]

Can you explain the MC board a bit (I'm cornfused):

Is the LED now board-mounted or was that supposed to be part of the lopped-off portion of the power supply PCB? It looks like R34 is the limiting resistor for the LED, and all of that used to run directly off the switch on your other builds. Neat, if that's what that really is.

The LED connections are fully working with an onboard current limiting resistor. I lopped it off where I did so as to preserve that.

The only things to ignore is C38 and C41.

You should have seen how quickly my rotary tool with cutoff wheel went through the PCB, I had the vacuum sucking in the dust and wore a mask.

I could have just left it on but it made it a few inches longer and was a nuisance to get a big enough case.

It would have been good to have it all on one PCB but I just couldn't get around the slight hum, and I hate hum, but separated using the same PSU there is no hum at all.

 

[MRL_Audio]

Well - have ordered all but 1 part from Mouser, that 1 part I orderd from Digikey and the cases ordered from Fry's. I should be good to go. Any chance you have written directions for this build? Somewhat of a newb here and would like all the help I can get. Thanks.

 

[HypnoToad]

Well - have ordered all but 1 part from Mouser, that 1 part I orderd from Digikey and the cases ordered from Fry's. I should be good to go. Any chance you have written directions for this build? Somewhat of a newb here and would like all the help I can get. Thanks.

Great.

If you need help on soldering there are many good YouTube videos, that's the main part. If not member dodog is the soldering man, he may help you. He has some great pics of his builds as well.

When populating the PCB's check your parts twice, you don't want to be removing things after you solder them in place.

Put the smallest parts in first.

1. Resistors.

2. Op Amp Sockets.

3. Ceramic capacitors.

etc and work your way up.

Take your time and check everything, it's easy to make a mistake.

Make sure the value of the resistor matches what's on the PCB.

Check to see you're electrolytic capacitors are the correct orientation. The longer leg is positive and the leg next to the strip on the side is negative.

Op amps need to be oriented the right way, the little crater on top signifies pin one. Make sure the sockets are in the right way as well. They will burn out if put in back to front.

If you are not sure of anything just ask.

 

[HypnoToad]

PCB Measurments

For those working out which cases they need:

SPS = 2 3/8" x 3 1/4"

HQMCPS = 3 3/4" x 4 3/8"

If you have a Fry's Electronics near you the Context Engineering 3008 is good for the SPS and the Context Engineering 4012 is good for the HQMCPS.

No Affiliation

And Measurements should have an E in it.

 

[k**rkleclaire]

For those working out which cases they need:

SPS = 2 3/8" x 3 1/4"

HQMCPS = 3 3/4" x 4 3/8"

If you have a Fry's Electronics near you the Context Engineering 3008 is good for the SPS and the Context Engineering 4012 is good for the HQMCPS.

No Affiliation

And Measurements should have an E in it.

Thanks!!

 

[Phantom]

Is The LED there just to signify power to the board, or does the circuit benefit from it being there? I understand an LED for battery operation so you don't drain unnecessarily, but since I'll be using a psu, I would rather leave out the power switch and LED to keep the unit continuously powered on, unless of course there is some need for it other than aesthetics.

I keep the PSU plugged into a power conditioner which has a switch that turns everything off if need be.

 

[HypnoToad]

No need for the LED it's just there to show it's on or off.

 

[MRL_Audio]

For those working out which cases they need:

SPS = 2 3/8" x 3 1/4"

HQMCPS = 3 3/4" x 4 3/8"

If you have a Fry's Electronics near you the Context Engineering 3008 is good for the SPS and the Context Engineering 4012 is good for the HQMCPS.

No Affiliation

And Measurements should have an E in it.

Just got my Mouser order today as well as the Fry's order. Mouser was only out of the binding post for ground and I am pretty sure I can nab one of those at the local Rat Shack. The cases are pretty nice. Any reco on drilling the back and front for the RCA, On/Off and LED so as not to damage them? Planning on putting this together very soon. Thanks.

 

[dodog]

Just got my Mouser order today as well as the Fry's order. Mouser was only out of the binding post for ground and I am pretty sure I can nab one of those at the local Rat Shack. The cases are pretty nice. Any reco on drilling the back and front for the RCA, On/Off and LED so as not to damage them? Planning on putting this together very soon. Thanks.

My take:

I personally don't like the binding posts in HT's BOM. Not a knock on Phillip, just don't care for the part. I prefer a nice bolt, some lock-washers, a few nuts and a gnurled-nut to clamp the ground on. You can get all that at Ace/Menards/etc. for less than a few dollars. Here's an example (no affiliation, and the amazon price is silly-expensive):

http://www.amazon.com/6-32-Knurled-Nut-15-pieces/dp/B003QZJX9U

For the case, I find it best to use some blue painter's tape over where you're working, then you can draw in pen, etc. and don't have to worry about scratching. I usually wrap every piece that could fall/rub on something in tape as it's a nice safety and cheap. Then I use a counter punch to get things started so that the bit won't slip/walk when you start:

http://solar1.net/drupal/protip_3

If you're using a hand-drill, start small and work your way up (bit by bit), work slowly, etc.

I also use a hole gauge (no affiliation):

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/t...mpaignId=T9A&gclid=CNDgmJ-PjboCFcxAMgodxWIApA

You'll never have to guess the size you need for all the holes (and you'll find the switch, RCA, LED, grounding post, etc. to ALL be different sizes).

Just my $0.02. Others will have other preferences.

 

[MRL_Audio]

dodog - thanks for the guidance. I will follow it. BTW - drove thru your fine town today on my way to St. Louis (Go Cards) from Waterloo. One of the easiest business drives I have.

 

[HypnoToad]

I drill the hole for the LED now in the center of the front, I put the switch on the back of the case. It looks more professional that way.

The best thing to get is a stepped drill bit for the RCA's, switches, mini XLR's if you got those.

The drill bit I use is slightly larger than the LED so I put a dab of glue around it and it's fine.

 

[dodog]

I drill the hole for the LED now in the center of the front, I put the switch on the back of the case. It looks more professional that way.

The best thing to get is a stepped drill bit for the RCA's, switches, mini XLR's if you got those.

The drill bit I use is slightly larger than the LED so I put a dab of glue around it and it's fine.

Step bits are great but I've found that most RCA, switch, etc. are all bizarre sizes that I can't find on any step-bits. As such, I have a drawer full of bits just for DIY. I usually hit up Menards when they have a sale, and it seems like one of the different brands is always on sale.

I dig the idea of the switch on the back but I'm all thumbs and would fumble around for far too long trying to find the damn thing.

 

[MRL_Audio]

...If not member dodog is the soldering man, he may help you. He has some great pics of his builds as well....

dodog - any chance you can post some nudes of the mc and ps? Gives me a better idea of what I am doing now that I have the parts. Thanks.

 

[HypnoToad]

dodog - any chance you can post some nudes of the mc and ps? Gives me a better idea of what I am doing now that I have the parts. Thanks.

There is a pic of the SPS populated in the Barter Town thread.

 

[MRL_Audio]

Any one get this together? Still have my parts sitting on the sideline waiting to understand how the PS is supposed to connect to the pre. Also the needed wiring outside of the parts that were listed and installed. Hate to sound like a broken record but it sure would be great/helpful to have pictures of a completed unit from the outside and inside of the case. Thanks.