cool....
Here's my ideas on resoldering. In my line of work I work on a lot of vintage Fender musical instrument amps that don't have printed circuit boards or transistors. Lot's of tubes and point-to-point wiring etc.....
Many times noisy amps and intermittant snaps, crackles and pops are the issue - and tracing them down in the laboratory manner is just too time consuming.
What we do, when confronted with this, is to hit all the solder points involving sockets, caps and resistors and grounding lugs. Normally we don't bother resoldering pots, power switches, lamps etc... but they can be resoldered too, if the issue isn't resolved. What we're talking about here is cold solder joints. I deal with them all the time.
NOS carbon resistors... wow, that's nifty. I imagine there's plenty of them out there. I think they look great. I ones I get at the elec. supply are the fire proof ones that are light blue, small and look kinda cheap. But that's all they have for me there. I don't buy much at Radio Shack, but that's what they sell too, when I'm forced to go there in a pinch; except theirs are sort of tan colored instead of blue. They look better, but not that much better. *LOL*
But I'll have to admire your determination in replacing all those resistors. I know that they often go out of spec. But usually I don't go that far. I make sure that the plate and cathode resistors coming from the tubes are not crumbling or disintegrating, and I always prod all the other R's with a piece of dowel to check for broken ones.
Beyond that, I don't bother with R's, unless I'm getting crackling or spitting sounds from the output, which, if all other things have passed muster, tells me that there's probably a resistor or more that are decrepid and are arcing inside.
On the other hand, old caps that are passing DC, can produce similar symptoms.
I have a tendency to leave well enough alone. But I must say, the extra effort in re-tinning those 12AX7 sockets was WELL worth the time. I'm going to re-tin the power tube sockets next !!
Yay!
