If I Can Do It - You Can Do It! Veneering A PL-530 TT

MAXZ28

Addicted Member
Here's a step-by-step on a Pioneer PL-530 turntable veneer job. The crappy vinyl laminate was flaking away and was quite unsightly. Why Pioneer cheaped out instead of laying down some real wood veneer on the plynth, we'll probably never know. But anyway...you don't need very many tools to accomplish this project.

*Cedan peel and stick Walnut veneer
[ you can special order it through Menards ]

*Exacto knife w / some fresh blades

*Bandit edge trimmer

*household iron - t-shirt / rag

*ruler - straight edge

*paper & pencil for template making

*screwdriver set and allen wrench

*drill and proper drill bits

First thing to do is disassemble the turntable removing the platter mat, platter, dustcover hinges, faceplate, badge, and anything else necessary to make way for removing the vinyl laminate. This turntable's substrate was solid and once I had all the hardware removed, all I had to do is lift up a corner of the laminate with my Exacto knife and slowly peel away the laminate. Some folks like to use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat up the laminate in order for it to peel more freely, but for this turntable, I was able to peel it off easily - almost like skinning an cat.

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Here's how nice the substrate appeared after "skinning" the vinyl laminate off.

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I then proceeded to take measurements of all the flat surfaces and draft a paper template using a pencil and straight edge. I laid the template down on the veneer and lightly marked my cutting points. I wanted all the veneer surfaces to run with the grain left to right. Once that was done, I used a sharp exacto knife and a straight edge to cut my veneer pieces. Always measure twice so you only have to cut once. Make sure your substrate is free of dust and debris so your glue will bond properly.

With all the pieces cut -six total - I began with the front piece. I peeled the backing away and positioned it appropriately. The backing is sticky but not so tacky that you can't reposition the veneer should you need to. I then grabbed the t-shirt and placed it over the veneer to protect it from the heat of the iron. Heating the veneer up allows the wood and glue to bond better to the substrate. I worked the iron slowly back and forth with the grain of the veneer.

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After a few minutes of heating the veneer, I allow it to cool and set before I grab my trusty Bandit Edge Trimmer. This little gadget works wonders. As long as you have a sharp fresh blade, even trimming against the grain is painless. Just make sure you apply even pressure on the tool and move along the wood slowly and in one motion. You'll have a clean flush edge once you're done.

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I grabbed a drill and proper bits to drill out the mount holes for the Pioneer badge.


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Here's the front piece trimmed on the top and bottom. I left a little overhang on each side to overlap the side pieces.


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Next, I proceeded to each side piece and followed the same steps as the front piece. I trimmed the top, bottom, and end cuts flush with the substrate so the top pieces and back piece would cover the side ends.

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Front and sides done.

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EDIT: After having several of these restorations under my belt, I now remove everything from the plinth when I veneer them.

I didn't want to remove the tone-arm for fear I would mess something up or forget how to reassemble it, so instead of the top piece being only one slab of veneer, I split it in two. With a tight cut, the seam will disappear once finished. Most of it is covered up by the platter anyway.

Working from the front to back, I laid down the first top piece, heated it up, let it cool, and trimmed.

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I took a piece of scrap veneer and tacked it to the back so when I laid the second top piece down, I could trim the edge flush against the back piece. I did not glue down the second top piece, but rather I placed the back piece on next so I could locate the dustcover hinge screw point markings I made with a pencil on the top of the substrate. Once the back piece was secured and trimmed flush with the side pieces, I could now finish the veneer work by gluing down the second top piece and trimming the top edges flush with the side surfaces.

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Now I grabbed my Exacto knife and trimmed up all the rough cuts for the switch mount holes. Cut downward only. If you pull cut, you risk splintering the edges.

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Here's how she looks with all the rough cuts groomed to the edges of the switch mount holes and motor opening. I also drilled out the faceplate mounting hole for the screw that comes from underneath as well as the tone-arm plate screw holes and the spare headshell mount grommet in the upper lefthand corner.

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Veneering is done! I reassembled the turntable starting with the faceplate so I could drill out and mount the faceplate screws.

This is how the darned thing should've come from the factory. :yes:

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That's it for now....later today I'll disassemble the TT again and then start prepping the veneer for finishing. The woodgrain really oughta pop once I get some Watcol' Danish Oil Natural laid down on the walnut. :smoke:
 
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I will be bringing my PL530 with when I come up so I can drop it off. :) Been looking at getting rid of it for quite a while but thought something like this would help it bring top dollar. :yes:

Btw looking good.
 
I will be bringing my PL530 with when I come up so I can drop it off. :) Been looking at getting rid of it for quite a while but thought something like this would help it bring top dollar. :yes:

Btw looking good.

How 'bout you just let me keep it? :D After veneering Verlin's, I'm really, really wanting one for the SX-1250. Pictures don't do it justice. Even in raw veneer it's beautiful.

Seriously, bring it up....it was an easy veneer job - can't get much more straight forward than this one. I have to finish up Rod's Kenwood case but after that, my veneer station is open.
 
Excellent work and this is a terrific DIY tutorial. I might even try something like this in the future. :thmbsp:
 
That is excellent. After your tutorial, I really think I could probably get this done for my PL-570. I agree...it should have come from the factory like this.
 
Wow, just beautiful. I will definately be doing that to my PL-530 in the future .as my vinyl is atrating to get tired. It will be great to have the pics' to guide me. Why not do the veneer finishing with the Watcol' Danish Oil Natural before putting on all the trim pieces and faceplate etc so as to have it finished underneath?
 
Laying on the first coat of Watco's Danish Oil Natural.

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Comparing the walnut veneer against the walnut laminate of Dennydog's PL-530...

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Lance, sorry we didn't get time to swing in today. Had to get back and pick the kid up from daycare. I would have liked to see where you are at with your project. The PL-530 turned out pretty nice.
 
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