Infinity QLS 1 Potentiometers

[buddha6]

Schematic

Nice job on the schematic! Perhaps your new job in retirement I didn't check it for accuracy though….

Thanks, but I doubt that's my calling. The one difference in my x-over and the Infinity schematic are the caps on the tweeter plug - mine have a 1.75uF and two 2.5uF caps.

 

[IndyAudio]

Thanks, I've completed my parts list and have decided, except for the pots, to replace everything and, per your suggestion, have found almost all of it at the three sites you suggested.

The one thing I haveb't been able to find - likely a nomenclature problem on my part - is the tweeter X-over 3-way plug. I know it's OK, but as long as I have the darn thing apart I might as well change everything I can.

Regards.

Excellent! And I agree, the way those pots looked, keep 'em.

IMO, based on the way the Xover plug works, I would NOT replace it, don't see a need. It's a very simple 3 pin male plug that fits in the corresponding female sockets. All I'd do is shoot DeOxit in there and run the plug in and out a few times in all 3 positions. What WILL make the difference here is replacing those capacitors wired to it for each of the three settings.

 

[IndyAudio]

Thanks, but I doubt that's my calling. The one difference in my x-over and the Infinity schematic are the caps on the tweeter plug - mine have a 1.75uF and two 2.5uF caps.

Hmmm, that's odd, you should have values as noted in post #37.

Maybe others can chime in, but if you have 2.5uF on both settings, they are basically the same?

 

[totem]

It's a very simple 3 pin male plug that fits in the corresponding female sockets.

The description sounds much the same as the adjustment on the RS 2.5's.

 

[IndyAudio]

The description sounds much the same as the adjustment on the RS 2.5's.

In this photo you can see the Tweeter X Over switch - it's set to High pointed right. You simply pull it out, rotate clockwise to 6 o'clock to choose Middle and plug it back in, or keep going clockwise a bit further to the last setting, Low.

 

[jimreeves]

Hi Buddha6, and welcome to AK!

May I ask why you've decided to replace your Watkins woofers, and are you getting them from Watkins?

 

[IndyAudio]

Hi Buddha6, and welcome to AK!

May I ask why you've decided to replace your Watkins woofers, and are you getting them from Watkins?

Agree, missed that on the first post - if you have the originals, I'd definitely keep them esp in the condition yours are from being stored - have them properly refoamed and you'll be all set!

Jim, thanks again for all the posts and great info on AK about these wonderful speakers - made my job and many others much easier!

 

[goodolpg]

I simply used a small flathead screwdriver and pried them apart. You'll notice several places along the edge of the back plate where a small screwdriver will fit...pry there a bit at a time on each spot. They come apart quite easily...at least the two I've done so far did.

Regards...

Thanks!

 

[totem]

IndyAudio
In this photo you can see the Tweeter X Over switch

Same adjustment control as the RS-2.5.

 

[buddha6]

Hmmm, that's odd, you should have values as noted in post #37.

Maybe others can chime in, but if you have 2.5uF on both settings, they are basically the same?

Actually, what I should have said is that I have a 1.75uF, a 2.5uF, and one marked 2.5uF - 3.5uF. All the caps were manufactured by Southern Electronics, which I think is now a subsidiary of Electrocube.

I've attached a drawing.

 

[buddha6]

Hi Buddha6, and welcome to AK!

May I ask why you've decided to replace your Watkins woofers, and are you getting them from Watkins?

No really good reason..just thought that new from Watkins was better than refoaming. And of course, since my other half thinks I spend money like we've just won the lottery, I thought...why the heck not. Might as well reinforce her view. LOL

One thought on the Watkins...I'm thinking (down the road a bit) of inserting a MiniDSP into the system. The 300 Hz and below feeds would be sent to the two Carver M 1.0Ts set up in mono and then onto the Low Frequency posts on the QLS. The other feed - above 300 Hz - would be sent to the Carver M4.0 T and then to the higher frequency posts on the QLS.

My thinking is that it would balance out the system and take some load off the amps themselves if they weren't fed information irrelevant to their function.

Any thoughts???

TIA

 

[americankiwi]

If you want to part with your old watkins...PM me...im trying to restore a basket case set of QLS-1's...im looking for the 2 woofers and 12 mids in any state...I'm missing mine

 

[buddha6]

woofers

Thanks for the offer, but they've already departed the building.

Regards...

 

[buddha6]

Hi Folks:

New to the board and my first post. I was lucky enough to purchase a new set Of Infinity QLS 1's back in the last century - SN 700473/700474. They've been in climate controlled storage since I retired in 1993, along with the rest of the equipment.

To update the post...I'm in the process of completely replacing the crossover in the QLS 1s - everything is new except the pots (which are, surprisingly, like new) and the tweeter plug. I'm taking my time and even laid out a life-sized schematic to ensure no mistakes. I finished the build of the left speaker X-over last night and decided to wait until morning to test the kit.

This AM, I dutifully lugged out a small Technics receiver and hooked my iPod up and then decided to hookup the speaker sets individually to test the crossover. Accordingly, I hooked up the mid-bass coupler; turned the receiver on; set a song on the iPod; turned up the volume a bit - - and nothing. Oops! I then tried the mid-range and tweeters -- all with nothing, nada.

As you might guess, I was miffed and tried to figure out why I had nothing anywhere. My first thought was did I put a fuse in the new holder? - yes. I then examined the input wiring from the binding posts, thru the fuse, and so on. I couldn't find anything wrong and was getting more agitated. Had I taken a working (though aged) system and broken it?

I decided to go back and re-test with the receiver. It was at that point, I discovered the problem. The iPod was hooked to the AUX input and the receiver's input selector was set to TAPE 1. Switching it, I instantly had music at the mid-bass coupler. Oh, what a relief and my blood pressure receded to normal!!! LOL

In sum, all the drivers function as expected and I can start on the right crossover. With this small success, I'm now looking forward to the rest of the project.

PS. I was surprised to find all the components of the original crossover were still within Infinity's specs, with the woofer capacitors actually closer to the schematic values than the new Bennics.

 

[Bkphoto]

i wouldn't use Bennics for anything...

I'd use ERSE's

 

[buddha6]

Thanks, that's nice to know. I did use Erse inductors, resistors, and biding posts.

 

[IndyAudio]

To update the post...I'm in the process of completely replacing the crossover in the QLS 1s - everything is new except the pots (which are, surprisingly, like new) and the tweeter plug. I'm taking my time and even laid out a life-sized schematic to ensure no mistakes. I finished the build of the left speaker X-over last night and decided to wait until morning to test the kit.

This AM, I dutifully lugged out a small Technics receiver and hooked my iPod up and then decided to hookup the speaker sets individually to test the crossover. Accordingly, I hooked up the mid-bass coupler; turned the receiver on; set a song on the iPod; turned up the volume a bit - - and nothing. Oops! I then tried the mid-range and tweeters -- all with nothing, nada.

As you might guess, I was miffed and tried to figure out why I had nothing anywhere. My first thought was did I put a fuse in the new holder? - yes. I then examined the input wiring from the binding posts, thru the fuse, and so on. I couldn't find anything wrong and was getting more agitated. Had I taken a working (though aged) system and broken it?

I decided to go back and re-test with the receiver. It was at that point, I discovered the problem. The iPod was hooked to the AUX input and the receiver's input selector was set to TAPE 1. Switching it, I instantly had music at the mid-bass coupler. Oh, what a relief and my blood pressure receded to normal!!! LOL

In sum, all the drivers function as expected and I can start on the right crossover. With this small success, I'm now looking forward to the rest of the project.

PS. I was surprised to find all the components of the original crossover were still within Infinity's specs, with the woofer capacitors actually closer to the schematic values than the new Bennics.

LOL - what an unnecessary scare! But glad it's all OK.

Interesting to know the old caps were close to spec…..I didn't test mine, but have them and may just do that some time for grins.

Curious why you changed all the inductors? Hope this doesn't change the voicing of the speakers - did you get exact duplicate specs? I don't see folks changing those often unless they are damaged or are attempting to "upgrade" and revoice the originals. Just curious, thanks and great progress!

 

[Bkphoto]

yeah i would only change out the inductors if there was an issue....

I've heard that sometimes speaker manufacturers would put the wrong values on them to fool the competition...

 

[chef free]

The iPod was hooked to the AUX input and the receiver's input selector was set to TAPE 1. Switching it, I instantly had music at the mid-bass coupler. Oh, what a relief and my blood pressure receded to normal!!! LOL

Happened to me the other day! I was working on the car and I couldn't figure out why I had no electricity ANYWHERE. I had forgotten to reconnect the battery!

How did you test your old woofer caps? (Only an ESR meter can give real results.) I didn't even test mine because they were leaking everywhere!

 

[Seppo]

OP, this thread might be of interest to you:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=386845